Help needed with bike carb/trigger wheel/crank sensor on a DX engine install

Hello,

First post here and I'm in need of some assistance.

I've got a 1988 GTI cabrio that I've bought as a project with Suzuki GSXR carbs fitted on a DanST custom manifold.

The car was running a later digifant (i think) dizzy when I bought it but it had no advance as the vac advance had been removed with the injection system some time ago.

The solution has been to fit a Nodiz electronic ignition and a 36-1 trigger wheel on the aux pulley.

I will stress that the car was running albeit very badly on the bosch dizzy.

I've fitted the kit over the past few weeks and I'd made a bracket on the back of the engine which I understood was 90 BTDC but the car will not fire.

I've researched a good few videos and information and it appears 90 BTDC should actually be on the front of the engine rather than the rear - Is this correct???

And if so, has anyone managed to mount a crank sensor in this location which misses all the other pulleys?

If anyone has, how.

Help

Mike

 

Sorry, I'm being really thick as I've over thought it too much. I've just realised the crank sensor can stay where it is and I need to rotate the trigger wheel around relative to TDC on the aux pulley/crank.

I've found a diagram that explains it more simply on the Emerald website and its helped me understand.

Hopefully this works.

 

Aux pulley has the same no. of teeth as the cam pulley, therefore runs 1/2 engine speed. Crank pulley is where you need your toothed wheel
Jon

 

Definitely needs to be on crank pulley, and think set up as the -1 by sensor at tdc, then turn trigger wheel 90° before fixing solid.
Did it on a classic mini using megajolt, loads of info which would be relevant to setting up wheel on those sites, need 1mm between sensor and wheel for it to trigger.

Section 3 explains
https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide

 

Thanks for the replies guys, sorry I should have said, the trigger wheel is fitted to the crank pulley on my car and the gap to the crank sensor I've fitted is correct, everyone else has been referring to it as the aux pulley but its the one on the crank.

I've not had chance to get back in my garage yet but I'm confident rotating the trigger wheel 90 before TDC on the crank pulley will sort. Install info was a bit misleading and I've fitted the sensor at 90 BTDC but not the trigger break position relative to TDC on the pulley.

 

Not sure if same as megajolt, but need a strobe to set it up once running, edis unit defaults to 10° or something, so disconnect ecu power and set to that base, could alter it in software if slightly out.
It really was the best running mini I ever owned ignition wise with the set up.

 

Cheers mate,

I've been back in touch with the Nodiz supplier, apparently I can adjust everything electronically through a PC serial cable plugged direct to the ECU box. Only problem is my laptops don't have a serial port.

I've ordered a lead from amazon but glad I don't have to take the trigger wheel off again as it was a nightmare to centralise with the sensor with millimetres to play with.

Hopefully will have it running well this weekend, fingers crossed

 

Does the nodiz use the ford edis unit same as megajolt does or is it all inbuilt?
Next will come the joy of finding suitable map, or someone willing to set up.

 

You can use a MK2/3 Golf power steering bracket cut down with a tab welded on for the crank sensor bracket....pic of one of my engines with one below. Very neat.

 

Nice job, but I prefer the harder way of doing it with the trigger wheel up the back of the pulley. Advantage is you can access the fanbelt (replace)
without touching the probe
Jon

 

Looks a bit more factory than my attempt Tony.

The trigger wheel on my crank pulley is a larger diameter (170mm) so I've managed to install a piece of flat steel bar behind the engine on the two protruding lugs just beyond.

I've still had no joy sorting mine, the software install is telling me I've got a break in communication which I have only just discovered (even though the nodiz lights are all flashing/spark plugs firing) and I'm also still not totally clear on where the bloody gap should be for the trigger in relation to TDC on the pulley/sensor position.

It says the the trigger wheel gap should be over the crank sensor at 90deg BTDC which I had interpreted as being inline with TDC on the crank pulley as that is at 90deg BTDC or thereabouts in relation to the sensor position - just like yours in the photo.

Also have you drilled the trigger wheel through to your crank pulley wheel? I've been utilising the crank pulley mounting points with some risers and longer bolts but your method looks neater.

 

As Jon says nice to have the wheel mounted the other side of the pulley, but this way is so easy and tried and tested (and he is right the fan belt is a pain, but as I hill climb and sprint, as opposed to Jon who rallies and abuses his cars more ). You need the right type of pulley with the recess on the front edge, but you just machine the centre of the pulley wheel to a push/press fit on to the recess and drill a few holes and tap them, then use 4mm 12.9 allen bolts.

It does look tidy doesn't it (I've built a few types, but this is the best), but its really the factory bracket that makes it, all I did was weld the tab with a hole for the crank sensor on, and a taped hole for the mounting bolt.

With regard to the timing I just measure TDC on cylinder no1 and worked out what timing I needed at 1200rpm or so. The dyno man can dial in the required timing, so as long as its close its not too important. The man on the laptop can dial it in for you as long as you give him a TDC mark. I made my own marker for this and set it at exactly TDC so we could be 100% where TDC was and Vince adjusted it from there (my local rolling road and sponsor )

 

Above is the marker I made, with a centre punch on the respective section on the trigger wheel......I have always used 62/2, but makes little difference. Just set the TDC to what the motor wants, then move the pointer to the right place before screwing it down. Tell your dyno man to check the timing and that this is TDC and he/she will be able to work it out from there.

 

Hello,

Right, I've had a week away for half term and came back full of optimism to get the car running. I've sorted the trigger wheel/crank sensor position and fiddled with the computer settings for the Nodiz but the car is absolutely not intending to start.

The fuel pump primes on initial turn of the key and the Nodiz is displaying the correct lights when cranking but still no joy.

I previously had an issue with starting the car when running the old distributor system when a wire came off the coil. From what I gather this wire returns to the fuse box. It was a green wire, that caused the starting issue from memory.

At the moment there are three disconnected wires including the green which did connect into the TCU and hall sender on the dizzy but I assumed these could be ignored.

My starting issue wouldnt be something stupid like a live fuel pump feed not being connected could it.

Sorry for the daft question but I'm getting to the end of my tether with it. The guys who supplied the Nodiz have been helpful enough but they aren't Mk1 golf experts.

 

May be daft, have you got spark at plug?
Does it use an edis unit like the megajolt or something, on them you can run without ecu, limp mode basically at 11° from memory, has your coil got power when cranking too as well as normally?

 

Hi mate,

Yes its got spark to all four plugs, checked that with a spark plug tester. Engine has good compression, the SRAD carbs were set up on a test engine by the supplier last month and ran fine. I'd even set the timing with a gun while cranking but have since lost that reference messing about with settings to try and get it firing.

Its running an old style (but brand new) ford zetec coil distribution pack.

Its got 4 brand new plugs and its a wasted spark system so even if the timing was way out it should still start at some point or at least try to.

Its really baffling me and I know it will be something simple when I get to the bottom of it.

 

Just to add, I am tempted to buy a fuel pressure gauge so I can see if it is definitely supplying fuel to the carbs when cranking.

 

If it's fuel, you can check that by spraying easy start or brake cleaner into the trumpets whilst cranking.
If it fires up briefly you know you have fuel supply issues.

You might have spark, but you also need to check with a timing light when (relative to tdc) your spark on no1 is happening.

 

I've checked the timing and it still wasnt attempting to fire. Its wasted spake so even if it was 180 degrees out I still would have thought it would fire.

I'll have to get some brake cleaner or easy start and then should know what to turn my attention to.