help! stud extraction from head

what's the most painless way to remove a stud from the head:





luckily i think there may be enough to catch but have tried with molegrips and can't get it.
i can't remember what way the stud screwed in after dave2227 re-tapped the thread made me up the stud after the last time it happened... dunno if it was a reverse thread or not

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38203

most painless way out? not into having to take head back off again [:^(]

i'm thinking hammer star socket over it? jus don't wanna damage it and have to take head back off as atm there looks to be enough to catch

 

try a new rocker cover gasket while your there







sockets like in that pic are pretty good

 

oh btw....thats probably leaking becuase the flange is cracked , get a new one and a new o ring

 

Give it a good battering on the end with a hammer before you go to free it off, heat it with a blowtorch if you have, then freeze it with a fire extinguisher if you have, then put penetrating oil on it. Then a nice sharp torx or 12-point socket should grab it. I doubt Dave would have cut it reverse thread, unless there was a specific reason for it?

 

From the original thread, Dave:

"For your information on how I repaired it,I got a rotor broach cutter and cut round about where broken stud and easy out was and retapped it a much larger thread.
A stepped high tensile stud made was inserted until it was flush leaving the M8 stud as original."

No mention of a reverse thread, and if he retapped a much larger thread then there would be no point in reverse threading it.

 

M14 right hand thread stepped down to M6.(Not M8 as I have been quoted)
That flange was fu**ed back then so I guess you attempted to tighten it up to stop it leaking ?
I put that in with stud extractor/tightner so chances are it will be tight.Also the material was EN24 so it wouldn`t snap.

PM me.

 

What about a bar with a hole in it the size of the stud and a touch of welding?
Barkstar

 

Don't laugh, but if you can get a power drill with a good chuck onto it (ie. tighten the chuck jaws over the end of the stud really tight), it might reverse out - just do it slowly.

I know it sounds daft, but I have used this technique countless times at work for getting snapped screws out of hardwoods, and have also used it on my car several times for small(ish) snapped bolts etc.

 

something like this work?

http://www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_info.php?pName=Impact-Stud-Extractor-6-12mm-12%22Sq-Drive&products_id=17379&osCsid=da79ed7efdb5a9414801662c55cc7c72

 

yeah dat should work jus make sure you grip it tight

 

have u tried jus drilling it through? and then rethreading it

 

welder, nut, nut over top, weld in hole, remove like a bolt. heat frees it up also

 

Get some of these,



about 20 from Machine Mart,

I used them the other day to shift a rounded bleed nip on my brakes,

useful for loads of jobs

 

If you are going to buy one Darryn get one of these instead.

http://www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_info.php?pName=12and%23147%3B-SQUARE-DRIVE-HEAVY-DUTY-STUD-EXTRACTOR&products_id=9127&osCsid=da79ed7efdb5a9414801662c55cc7c72

 

That'smy second favourite tool, after the felling axe........ the harder you turn it, the tighter it grips the stud.......

 

can't find one anywhere except online - don't fancy waiting til next wednesday for it

 

Someone broke my one the other week there.It was older than me (which is old btw) and the company that made it doesn`t trade anymore since their factory got bombed in the war.

 

mite go attempt this soon... think it wil be ok using blowtorch as tsc suggested? thinking oil, petrol, flames

 

what often works for me is to first drill a hole down the stud then i mig a blob on top of the stud and grip it with a pair of mole grips.

 

absence of any mig related paraphenalia may thwart that idea