Help with ABF/CE2 conversion on mk1 gti

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Queiroz, Feb 26, 2018.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    for comparison the early non-ac type setup:
    [​IMG]

    big spring, ignore all the bits on the left those are for the power steering pump which you can remove
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    No problem.
    The throttle sensor fitted to later post 94 engines, is also fitted to the early VR6 12v engines pre August 95, with Pierburg throttle bodies.
     
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  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Last edited: Feb 28, 2018
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  4. Queiroz New Member

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    Thanks, Ill throw some money at that too.
    Already ordered pump pulley and will test fit the engine to check the clearance...
    :thumbup:
     
  5. Queiroz New Member

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    Hello guys,

    Got some parts today for the golf, to go along in the conversion...
    9 inch brake booster from passat, to fit along with a new master cylinder pump and oil reservoir I need to get... Hope I didnt screw up with part numbers, since Im following so many threads at the same time lol
    Plans are for shortening pedal thingy and bolt it up
    [​IMG]

    On the ABF side, went to dealer and bought new oem pump pulley, as they are cheap...
    Thanks John for the Part Number :thumbup:
    [​IMG]

    They all lineup nicely, only strange thing is the pulley doesnt have ribs, would that be a problem? The ribs on the belt will run on the pulley. Isnt it design to be run with the back of the belt? [:s]
    [​IMG]

    Also got ride of some brackets that I wont be using
    [​IMG]

    Looking at this picture seems I need some kind of pipe coming from crank vetilation too
    [​IMG]

    Finally realizing why cars gotten slower and slower these days.
    Look at the weight shedding just is 15 minutes lol lol lol
    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow Ill grabe a 90A alternator and try to find what belt I need to get...
    I guess Ill have to open a project thread in here to post progress...

    Also wanted to know if you guys recommend the ideal spot for the ecu and how to secure it?
    Grommet is kind of square and funky, I suppose it goes in the scuttle sealing in the leap on mk3?
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    good progress :) the pulleys are smooth when new, used ones have 'ribs' worn thru the paint :)

    crank vent pipe is 037103231C, classic parts are doing them again heres some sellers:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202209788013
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182898305806

    I would hold off buying alternator and belt till after you get the engien in, if the tensioner wheel hits the leg you may want to change the lot for the earlier non-ac setup. some have put a dent in the leg instead, depending on how close it gets

    edit: but if you do end up using this setup the belt you need is 037903137H, 1033mm long. for the early non-ac springy alternator the belt is 037903137E, 894mm
     
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  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    oh and before I forget, if you're using a mk1 golf radiator swap the thermostat flange on the bottom of the waterpump for a mk1/2 golf one. the mk3 one there makes it awkward to fit mk1/2 lower hoses. may as well put a new thermostat in while you're there, ABF one is 037121113 and dont forget the seal 038121119B though usually new stat housings include the seal.
     
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  8. Queiroz New Member

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    Thanks John!
    Ill have to buy a new radiator, the one I have is leaking a bit. Also will buy a 2 speed fan motor and blade to fit my housing and use ABF loom.
    Looking at more conversions, read here (link below) that mk1 oil filter/cooler flange will bolt on abf, but yesterday noticed that on top wont have plugs to fit all the sensors currently on oil filter/cooler from abf engine. I wanted to keep mk1 oil rad along with water/oil cooler from abf but cant seem to figure out how to do it... is there any sensor I wont be needing from abf? If I could bin one of the large ones (blue or white) I could try to use a combo with both setups.
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    rad wise I usually go for the 1.8 8v GTI mk1/2 one, as its dirt cheap and widely available. the 1.6 radiator its not as wide but will probably cope just fine,the abf doesnt need a massive rad. if you do have a smaller rad and go for the 1.8 then you need the matching fan shroud and radiator hoses to match. the mk3 fan plug probably wont fit any mk1/2 fans you find, but I think the later/high power ones use the same plug as found on some abf looms. see how you go.

    The mk2 fan looms have a 2 pin spade plug near the headlight with a red and brown wire, so you can grab that off the donor car as well. on the abf loom you could chop the red to the thermoswitch and brown to the fan, crimp 6.3mm latched spades on and ideally get a matching spade plug housing then plug the 2 sides together. its hard to explain but simple when you have one in front of you.
    The only problem with mk2 looms is because this 2 pin spade plug is not sealed corrosion can build up, if yours is bad you could make up a new fan loom or adapt the abf loom to suit the mk2 fan using the old plug housing. the terminals are available if you have a decent crimp tool. for the thermoswitch the mk2 plug has 6.3mm spade terminals so dead easy to fix up the bodgery on the abf fan loom.

    you cant fit a mk1 oil filter housing to an abf block, the fitment to the engine differs. look at the upper bolt, mk1 is straight to the lower but the abf one is offset over to the timing belt end:
    [​IMG]

    plenty aftermarket external oil cooler options available still, but I wouldn't bother at this stage. the abf engine will run pretty cool with a decent radiator and fan setup. only worry in the future if you add serious engine upgrades, or plan to make a proper track weapon out of it. even then, see how you get on before you add anything extra to the cooling system.

    for the sensors, on the abf there are 3 on the filter housing. the 2 big ones are oil pressure switches, same ones as used on the MK1 engine so you can keep those as is. the smaller one is the oil temp sensor for the MFA, its a different rating to the mk1 so swap that over for the original mk1 sensor off the oil filter housing assuming you have MFA clocks that is. if not, you can ignore! in addition round the back of the head is a blanked off oil tapping just above the exhaust manifold on the left side. You can put another oil temp sensor here if you have both MFA clocks and a set of gauges in the centre console :)

    if you have an oil pressure gauge as well, ideally get a sensor which has 2 electrical connections, these replace one of the original oil pressure switches. usually they replace the 0.24/0.3 bar switch but some replace the 1.8 bar, double check the markings on the sender.
     
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  10. Queiroz New Member

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  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah paul didnt do his research properly :p 053115417A is the MK3 part number. It is indeed listed for MK1 & MK2 in ETKA, but if you look its only listed for use if you have bought a new short block from VW.

    Very late mk1/2 also use the mk3 type filter housing, it came in mid 91ish. also if you bought a new short block from vw from about this date on, it comes with the late type filter housing.

    the picture in pauls post is an early type MK2 16v engine, the blocks with breathers on are easy to ID. if the breather housing is metal its early type, if plastic its late (all ABF are late)
     
  12. Queiroz New Member

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    One other question, for the flywheel I found mk2 uses pn 027105273
    Is this the same as 027105273D found on later cars or I got to stick to old one?
    As for the mk3 starter you mention, will it engage with this flywheeel?
     
  13. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Fit an alloy 16v radiator, if you plan on using the engine enthusiastically. It will help keep oil temps low.
    They are available on ebay.
    You will not require the original MK1 oil cooler with that combination for a road car. If you plan on taking the car to the track, then you can fit an additional external air to oil cooler also. There is a sandwich plate that is added to divert the oil through the cooler, while retaining the oem water to oil system. A short 1.4 16v oil filter is recommended.
    I run this system on the track/daily MK2 that I pictured some posts back.

    In terms of starters motors, I have recommended on here, starters from the MK3 1.8 and 2.0 GTI 8v cars. They are planetary and have lots of starting torque for good engine run up over the older direct drive 020 starters.
    They are good if your engine has an compression increase also. Smaller than the direct drive.
     
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  14. Queiroz New Member

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    Will any of those starters engage without problems in mk2 8v flywheel Ill be using?
    I could use some help in a part number, starters are tricky with lots of references crossed with mk4 models.
    Thanks Toyotec
     
  15. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Starter needs to be for MK3 or Seat 1.8 to 2.0 8v with a 020 gearbox and 210mm flywheel and brass bush insert into gearbox bell housing. Never looked up part numbers as those are the cars I have always fetched them from. Not from MK4 cars.
     
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  16. Queiroz New Member

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    Went to the shop again and unbolted starter from EG
    Got even more confused since was trying to find mk3 1.8 starter locally and not an easy task here in Portugal.
    Other than few models here with that engine, local scraps tend to quickly dismantle cars and stock parts in shelf, reason why I was asking for part number.
    Its difficult to know engine size and match it with 020 gearbox running 210mm flywheel.

    However all the one I found were all 3 bolt ones but looking at this thread you replied I may assume they fit anyway?
    http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?263601-16v-Starter-Motor-Options

    On the other hand mine as part number bellow and 9 theet.
    Given the difficult in finding 210 mm flywheel from 8v gti and matching mk3 020 starter I was leaning to go with stock setup from EG bolted to abf but afraid it wont last longer even with new clutch.
    Stock engines have a 20Nm torque difference but even so could ruin clutch fairly easy, I supposed...
    Some pics of mine bellow

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Because yours is a MK1 starter and the pictures I shared are from MK2/MK3.
    The MK1 starter will still work. It just will not turn over the engine as quick as the starter recommended.
    The MK2/MK3 starter will still work. The 3rd bolt hole is not used.
     
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  18. Queiroz New Member

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  19. Queiroz New Member

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    Today found a starter in local scrap, similar to the one in this link. It has the same 9 teeth gear as my old one...
    This should be it right?

    Anlasser 020911023A VW GOLF III (1H1) 1,8 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.de/ulk/itm/263167213424
     
  20. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Spot on.

    Get the connection for the bendix also. Makes the connection for KL50 much neater.
     
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