Hi Idle on my pierburg 2e2

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by gazmacuk, Jun 29, 2008.

  1. gazmacuk New Member

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    Hi guys,

    i have got a mk1 cab 1.8 8v on a carb. I have read various threads about the pierburg carbs, which i would like to congratulate you guys on ...very very informative.

    My engine was running really hi (2k) when warm so have bought and fitted a wax stat which is very easy to do. but the car is still struggling to settle down on the idle although it has dropped down to about 1300... i have tried altering the idle speed via the 13mm bolthead and it doesnt seem to alter the speed at all up or down.

    Any ideas fellas????

    Cheers

    Gaz
     
  2. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Have a look at the side of your carb that looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    With the engine (running) at full working temperature, is there a gap between the actuator and that 'grubscrew' where the yellow arrow is pointing?

    If so, that's why adjusting the 13mm thingy won't be changing anything. If there is a gap here, the waxstat isn't getting hot enough to expand to its full extent. Don't be tempted to adjust the grubscrew to close up the gap BTW, that won't help!

    There are a couple of workarounds such as adjusting the innards of the waxstat itself, or the mechanisms that it drives on the other side of the carb, but the full solution is to improve the coolant flow through the manifold. As you've probably read, this almost ceratinly involves replacing the coolant channel o-ring, at least.

    If you can take a picture or two of this area on your carb (with engine at temp.), and some general shots around it, that would be useful. :)
     
  3. gazmacuk New Member

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    Cheers will do
     
  4. JonTifosi Forum Member

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    THink i might look at my O Ring what size is a spare one? Do GSF do it? Can anyone post me one? are there any neat tricks of things i can buy to clean out water channels prior?
     
  5. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Inlet manifold coolant channel o-ring:
    VW 035 121 171C,

    GSF 11811, by the looks of it.

    Don't know of any way to clean out water channel with manifold in situ. More's the pity.
     
  6. gazmacuk New Member

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    [​IMG]

    there is a slight gap not had chance to get feeler gauges it s that small, but the choke hosing gets foooookin hot after only a short time ...any ideas guys?


    This is what revs i am getting after a short drive!!

    [​IMG]
     
  7. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    If there's any gap there at all, it must be that the waxstat/warm-up cam mechanism isn't quite releasing as intended. That's the only thing, other than the accelerator cable being too tight, that could explain that gap, I think.

    What happens if you put your foot under the accelerator pedal and lift it? Maybe the pedal's not returning to where it should when you take your foot off?
     
  8. gazmacuk New Member

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    will check tomoz pete, cheers bud
     
  9. JonTifosi Forum Member

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    [​IMG][/QUOTE]

    That would have made a good pciture if the speedo was at 120mph too :lol:
     
  10. JonTifosi Forum Member

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    my auto choke hoses dont get foookin hot, any ideas where to check first (what normally gets clogged)
     
  11. gazmacuk New Member

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    nothing happens when you do that pete, but am gonna go check the throttle cable
     
  12. gazmacuk New Member

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    where is this pal and what should i look for ???

    Cheers Gaz
     
  13. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    The warm-up cam etc. is on the other side of the carb, low down, near the front. Have a look at post #11 in this thread, and then see if you can spy the cam on your carburettor.

    That cam is adjustable by a few degrees each way, there's an Allen-head screw that locks it relative to another bit. If you were to undo that screw, rotate the cam a little bit clockwise, then do it up again, it might solve your problem.

    Doing this would make the waxstat move that cam further round than it's managing at the moment, hopefully so that it disengages with that 'stop' in the diagram. Then the idle can be controlled by the 3/4 point unit on the far side, as it should be once the engine's warmed up.
     
  14. gazmacuk New Member

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    Been out for a drive in the car and it is struggling to idle at 1.5k !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    F**king thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    not done any of the above yet but it is pee ing me off now !!!!!
     
  15. gazmacuk New Member

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    just wondering tho! the bit i have arrowed here

    [​IMG]

    a while ago i thought it was the idle adjustment screw[:s] [:s] and wound it in a bit or i thought i had, is this bit adjustable? could i screw that out and it would lower the revs???


    Cheers

    Gaz
     
  16. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Only if the other (non-arrowed) end is touching the actuator/pushrod of the 3/4 point unit.

    If there's a gap, as you described in an earlier post, it won't change anything.

    Give it a try. You should be able to turn it with a pair of pliers with suitably grippy jaws.
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if you wound that in that'll explain the high idle...
     
  18. gazmacuk New Member

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    ill check tomorrow ...cheers guys
     
  19. gazmacuk New Member

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    [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D]

    adjusted that bit and all i can say is YEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAA

    big thanks to you guys on here been a massive help !!! when i see u i will buy you a pint

    :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
     
  20. clarky1961

    clarky1961 Paid Member Paid Member

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    i have a mint one off my jetta for sale to worked brill i all ways keep the good ones i no they foook up this only done 40k miles kev
     

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