I guess by 'that bit' you mean the red-arrowed screw in your picture in post #15? Unfortunately, there's a picture/caption in the Haynes book that gives the impression that this screw adjusts the 'normal' idle speed, leading many folk astray (myself included a couple of years back). There's a reason that Pierburg shear off the head once it's been set up correctly during manufacture... Anyway, glad you've got it fixed gazmacuk, good work.
yeah thats the one pete, again thanks a million for the help and taking time to help me out really appreciate it
Excellent info on here, and sorry for hi-jacking the thread, but I am having the opposite problem with my Scirocco 1.8 carburettor. It idles at about 2k when cold, then settles down when warm....I know kok all about these carbs so any advise would be greatly appreciated.
sounds like a faulty 3/4 point unit holding up the idle too long, a faulty vac switch on the back which controls the 3/4 unit movement, faulty waxstat or there is a blockage in the coolant channel o-ring preventing the autochoke & waxstat releasing properly. Its the same unit as fitted to the MK2, my 2e2 faq post details how to test these bits plus a load of other stuff on the carb
It happens right from cold though...you start up and the idle goes straight up to 2k then sits there until warm....does that sound right?
That doesn't sound right, no. I'd start by checking the waxstat, I think. With cold engine, carefully undo the two screws that hold it in place (I think you can leave the water hoses attached). You'll see a pin in the centre of it. That should be sticking proud of the flange surface by about 2mm, and should resist moderate pressure. If it doesn't stick out this much, or retracts into the housing when you apply pressure, time for a new one.
you coudl also try pushing this pin when the idle is high, if this brings the idle down then chances are its a dead waxstat or a coolant supply issue. I've also heard that putting a dead waxstat in boiling water can reset them, not sure how true this is but its free to try! I guess the above would only work if there has been a coolant supply problem for a while? Plus you would have to fix the problem otherwise it would only be a temp fix anyway.
Thanks guys, I will give that a go....these carbs are a bit of a mystery to me....give me a 45 DCOE any day!
dont rush out to buy one though, believe it or not the 2e2 is a very good carb when its working. My old 1.6 driver ran beautifully once I fixed it, better than my GTIs ever have.
it does sound more like a 3/4 point unint fault ot me then, when i had coolant channel probs it would start up roughly ast 900, run like **** then eventually the idle would raise up to 2k. Might even be somerthing as simple as a blown fuse, there are 2 electrical valvy things round the back, you should hear them click on when you turn the key 1 click, if they dont switch on the 3/4 point unit will stay stuck out fully extended and casue the high idle. Could also be down to a disconnected vac hose round the back there, its a bit complicated back there but I have put some pics on my faq with nice colours showing each one
There is some dodgy looking wiring around the back there ...that maybe the problem. Probably a good time to get the 16v motor sorted and whack that in....the interior has already been stripped out this evening :-)
I have just been looking at it this morning from cold (never enought time in the week, I am usually already late for work ) Anyway, when you fire up the thing sits at 2k RPM and the piston in that thingy to the left of the carb as you look into the engine bay is not touching the grub screw at all so its not that proping the RPM up.....it seems to be on a stop somewhere else but I can't where, admittedly I didn't look for long because I had a 2 year old poking a screwdriver through the grille into the radiator. Is there a stop that controls the throttle stop position when it isn't on the plunger in that unit?
Yup, see post #11 in this thread. Waxstat holds minimum throttle angle artificially high during warm up. As it fails, it holds the revs up for longer and longer.
Hi guys, I need your help, my mk2 1.6 driver 2e2 isn't running right. It isn't idling high enough when cold. When i start it up first on a cold day it will idle high for up to 10 seconds and then drop down in revs. Sometimes it will just about idle but later die, or sometimes it'll cut out straight away. Once warm the car runs nicely. The autochoke gets very hot, 3/4 unit extends when necessary etc.
Thanks for the quick reply! I will check out the pull down unit and let you know of the outcome asap! I have bought some new vacuum pipe and will change the whole lot one at a time.
