How can you get a good paint job with rattle cans

Hey

Is it possible to get a good paint job done with rattle cans? if so how?

Cheers
Craig

 

Depends on what you are spraying

Small panels/parts yes

Large areas generally no

Aerosol cans just don't have a large enough fan or enough power to really get down a decent amount of paint how a spray gun would


It is possible to a decent blow in with aerosol as long as you have good quality cans of paint and laquer, a polishing mop and some skills.

 

No

 

what are you painting
iv had reasonable results from r/cans but as stated above never on big areas
small areas with no blending needed,well prepped and done indoors,warm temp and build the paint up in stages,also using good paint and one of those weired nozzles like halfords supply,give a good fan,also shake the can very well and put on the radiator for a wee while ,then maybe
outside ,spraying like a wing or something forget it

 

what about using them for a wheel?

 

wheels are fine in terms of finish, but it won't be as durable as proper two pack

 

i resprayed my tailgate, first time spraying with rattle cans, did lods of coats and did them quite thick even thou peeps said to do the thin coats lol. i then used rubbing compund and wet and dry to flat it and then t-cut and wax and it was almost showroom stuff.

alos recon'd my bbs's pain to rub down but they look ace..

i say easy peasy!

 

yea should be fine with wheels,again good prep and lots of heat ,i think id be tempted to(after painted and clear coated them) to stand an halogen heater close by to try immitate baking the paint maybe about 2-3 feet away for half hour or so,not saying this is what you should deffo do but its what id do

 

Ive sprayed a few bits and bobs in my time and found using rubbing compound after gets rid of the orange peel look and has a nice shiny finish.

 

with orange peel




after some wet and dry (and t-cut + wax)





and the weheels were faily straight forward just hours of hard prep work and blistered/bleedinh fingers!! lol they were bbs! haha

i was a bit scared when i sanded mine down with 1500 grit wet and dry becuase it went dull (whats meant to happen) but after t-cut and wax it was SHINEY!! lol

 

Im gonna go against the grain a little, i hate laquer! And i don't know how to actually get orange peel? Is it not from leaving too long inbetween coats?

Ive always done three/four light coats (slightly wet on wet) and then the final coat nice and thick (just on the verge of running) never had to polish up or laquer.

With bodywork i do let each coat dry inbetween then flat back again...then get the last coat on top of the slightly wet previous one, again just on the verge of running.

Neil.

 

I sprayed my wheels on the car, tyres on, covered in dirt and rust from that time I had no brake pads for a week , no primer, no laquer and it was spitting abit and they're spot on

 

I spent two weeks just prepping the Borbets!

 

if you flat back every coat then you wont have orange peel! thats what your getting rid of! lol

 

unless you are painting a super flat surface and piling on a whole load of paint there will be some orange peel. you get serious orange peel by not putting enough paint on, but even when you do there can still be a small amount which will benefit from a polish. it is possible to get a finish that doesnt need it that bad that you can get away with it

laquer is for extra shine an UV protection , it is good peoples lol

 

Nah, i meant on wheels where i always apply wet on wet...On the bodywork i mean flatting primer back to get a good key for the colour coats. Should have explained better but i was rushing a bit. Ive never had to flat back/buff to get a decent 'finish'

Using gloss paint you should be able to get a shine without laquer if the temp is right, and if you get enough on without runs.

 

sure is, every vauxhall comes like it standard.....

 

As said before, no. Rattle cans are the devils work. small panels (wing mirrors etc..), none metalic, yes they aint to bad to use. Big areas are a no no, fan patterns rubbish, quality of the paint is poo and not very tough/hard wearing compared to 2k HS laquers/topcoats and its mostly thinners in it so film thickness aint to great.

For wheels, yeah give it go why not they should look sweet. Id go for a powder coat though peronaly, i painted my wheels in 2k and even that aint that durable enough for a wheel as they have chipped and now the oxidisation is setting in they need doin again.

Orange peel can be caused by quite a lot alot of things, temp of paint/spraying environment, viscosity, paint mix, application technique. Make sure your cans are well shaken up, warm (heat up with hair dryer, put in hot water for a while etc) this improoves greatly how the paint atomizes and comes out the can, preferably paint in a good warm temp Like house temp. Unless you mess up you dont need to flat between coats, kinda pointless, just apply the paint wait about 5 mins between coats, when you have a finnish you are happy with and you are happy with the amount paint youve put on leave for a couple of days then flat out orange peel and dirt nibs with 2000 wet and dry then buff up with a compund like g3 or 3m fastcut, should see em shinin pretty.

 

what about one of these

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ea-hv1900-spray-stat/path/

 

i aint sure about that thing, never used one, would never use it on a car though. Looks more suitable using on fences and what not.
At that price though, plus paint+hardener, might be more cost effective to have a refurb company do it (aint sure what prices they charge these days). If your willing to pay it though ya never know might turn out nice, and so long as it puts the paint on you can always flat and polish the finnish to a good shine, ive seen some right shocking paint jobs polish up a treat.
If you do it, take photos and let us know how it turns out, would be intersting to see how it works.

Wouldnt mind using one sometime to see what its like myself.