Thats cool. I'm not going to rush into things with this engine project tbh. Will most definately make sure the engine is built up correctly, and will get someone with good knowledge to set it up. Just a quick question Mike, does "The Man In The Shed" still port heads. I'm not looking into it just yet, but as i know his work is top quality, i would consider him doing my head work for me in the next few months. What prices does he charge?
if your after a schrick check this bloke out http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Schrick-Nocke...14&_trkparms=72:1683|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318. if your going for 288 or above think you need to do springs aswell. anyone know if schrick springs will work with standard retainers+collets?
Shed heads are still available. Prices are in the first page of the thread in Group Buys. 8v ported with standard valve sizes is 250 + VAT.
not running injection but just to let you know my engine spec and bhp. twin dcoe 45's 4-2-1 Tony Law Exhaust manifold with 2.5 inch external diameter exhaust system (just over 2.25 inch internal) with one straight through rear box early 8v head without the cutout for injectors kent GS6 cam. 316 deg vernier pully oversized valves 41mm inlet not sure on exhaust ported and polished been skimmed a couple of times but not sure how much std 2E bottom end from a seat with ARP bolts 156 bhp at fly wheel 125 bhp at wheels did have an overbored decked bottom end and saw very good figures but put a rod through the block last year.
The Schrick stuff is very good, but too much money. Both Kent and Piper do a good range for the 8v, and I've never had a quality problem... in the old days Piper used to have issues but those days are long gone with modern materials, machining and quality control. I run a Piper cam in a friends 2ltr road car which has had no problems in 18 months, and Kent race cams in my own for the last 6 years, again with no problems. A cam in the 270 degree ball park will give a very good power spread, cams in the 280 degree region will push the power curve up a bit with a little loss of low end, though it does'nt need to be much of a loss if the engine is set up correctly with the compression ratio to suit. We ran a 284 degree (custom Piper ground) cam in a 2ltr a few years back which made 156hp (131 at the wheels) on K-jet. The "very" same head and cam made 140hp (117 at the wheels) on an 1800 bottom end but with a "standard" exhaust system, so 145-147 would have been easy with a de-restricted exhaust. The bottom end power on the 1800 was no less than standard anywhere in the rpm range even with the 284 cam, though the set -up and combination is important. You certainly dont want a 304 Schrick for road use. they run like a dog at idle and light throttle/low speed on a plenum type manifold (i.e standard), but like a swiss watch on open induction, carbs/throttle bodies.
Nah, tame as a kitten on the 304, though go's ok with 177hp. It'll bark much better after it's re-vamp now I've re-ported the head and fitted a 318 cam... and the 13:1 c.r will perk it up a bit as well..
Are you running fuel additives at that, or does the cam bleed off enough compression that it'll run ok on high octane pump fuel?
hi mate, yep at jabba,kev did it. when he remapped the fuelling it gained 5 hp & 10lb/ft torque. def over 158lb/ft looking for the graph but got sooo much paperwork. extremely odd readings IMO, I believe i have the lowest power figure on the grid but possibly the highest torque reading. TBH i had the head off shortly after that due to smoking at hight rpm and the inlet ports had been ported! and overly so. no valve guide shoulder at all.clearly we are not allowed to have this done so had to get another head, got it refurbed and put it on. now the graphs could be different but i doubt it, I think ive lost a smidge of pace. it isnt fast enough and understeers too much, so i've got a way to go. I think its the cam thats doing that, its supposed to be a copy of another manufacturers profile but i believe its a new profile.
No additives Mike... the current engine on the 304 Schrick ran at 12:1 with 27 degree's advance, mine runs 13:1 with a 318 degree cam (which I'm just upgrading the "304" engine to) and 32 degree's advance... it's all in the build..... I run tight squish on both engines for a start, and forged pistons... you'd never get away with it on cast pistons and just skimming the head.
My 2.0 8v has been rolled out the garage again ready for the next chapter. When it was RR'd it had: 2e Bottom Vagobonds stage 1 (standard valves) head Newman 268 cam Lightened Flywheel Ported TB with overbore Standard exhaust Made 131.9 BHP, but should have been a bit more, as peak power was achieved at only 4800 RPM, after which it dropped like a stone. Can't remember off the top of my head but I think by 5100 RPM it was down to 80 or 90 BHP. Made excellent torque figures though, peaking at 150 lb/.ft, again can't remember at what RPM, but torque was strong all the way through. After that run, I added a few more bits and bobs, including a port matched and polished inlet manifold, Ansa 4-2-1 manifold, Jetex 2.25 exhaust system, decent free flowing air filter and a few other bits and bobs and it felt even better. Before it went in the garage it was a dream to drive, absolutely belted it along, although still droppy offy at 5k plus but I think this is the curse of the Digi 8v. Never had it RR after that, which is a shame because I think I would have seen a definite power gain, especially as I had a Vernier pulley on there to set the cam timing precisely. All in, I think i paid around 1000 for this conversion, as I did alot of the work myself, and yes I could have just chucked an ABF in for that money, but I've had several valvers and I preferred the way the 8v drove. It's kind of an improved 8v GTi! Now toying with a Porsche 3.5bar FPR to see if I can improve things further, especially post-5k. Will start another thread on that, as I will need advice. A remap would be nice, as well.
Did you ever have the fuel pressure checked on a rolling road, to see if it was dropping off at high revs/full throttle.
Probably about right with the standard exhaust (so about 108-109 at the wheels ?), should make an easy 145-146hp (120 at the wheels) with that spec and the exhaust, maybe a touch more with the cam timing & fueling corrected if it's out, which the early drop off would suggest. Where abouts in Cornwall are you ?
Never had the fuel pressure checked at all, just going on hearsay from what we know about digi's and their leaning out up high. TBH I'm sure there are better ways to get around the problem than fitting a higher pressure fuel regulator, and I am concerned about what it might do to the midrange, as if it runs a bit rich it will have an adverse effect on power, which means I would have just shifted the problem somewhere else. But, having seen the porsche FPR mod mentioned on more than a few occasions as a possible solution I thought it might be worth a shot at least, especially as there was one on the 'bay for 20. I was contemplating squashing my original! At least this way I can swap back if it doesn't work. I happen to be in sunny St Austell MrHillClimber! Are you nearby?
Not far, Plymouth. Was thinking more about rolling roads near to you... who do you use/did you use to get your last power runs ?
I took it to RK engineering in St Agnes. Seem to be a good bunch of lads. I once took a corrado I owned to Alan Jeffery and wasn't overly impressed! That's another story though. I'd like to find someone nearby who could do me a remap. TBH I'm not sure what my car needs, I just want to optimise what I have (providing the results justify the cost of course!) I guess all a remap would involve is a custom fuelling map burnt on an EPROM chip would it not? IIRC the last time I asked on the forum, people were of the opinion that the ignition map could not be altered, or remapped, on a digi unless discarding the ECU for custom management. Im not technically minded enough to comment on that though!
That would sound about right from Mr J. I've heard good comments re RK too, you've also got Richards bros in Cornwall and SRD in Launceston. I know SRD's rollers to be fairly realistic from experiance but they cant burn chips, (maybe worth asking Richards Bros as they used to do a lot of RS turbo stuff) I think you may have to look further afield for that. Now you've fitted the exhaust and other bits it's got to be worth a re-visit to the same rollers to see whats happening to the power now, and a swing of the vernier in the advance direction. If the advance curve is'nt tweekable you'll always be at a bit of a loss so will have to make the best with what you have.
Yeah I'm sure this has been brought up before and most people were of the opinion that the ignition timing map was not stored on the chip with the fuelling map. I'm not sure where it's stored exactly but I don't think it's going to be possible to have a new one just burnt and then plug and play. Would be nice though! The Porsche FPR- do you think it will need any other mods to get a worthwhile result from it? I guess a chip would be in the right ball park, to try and focus some of that extra fuel where it's needed, but aside from that....? Standard injectors ok? Standard ignition components ok? ( I could add a new coil- no idea when mine was last replaced- and some magnecor ht leads).
The spark maps are in the motorola CPU and not on the Eprom. From my work in the past with my 2.0 8v before switching to MS, STD digi II did intially ran lean to 3.5K rpm then ramp to rich at 3.5 to 4K then back lean again 4.5-6K rpm. This was not improved with an ebay chipped ECU as the torque curve was only made shorter and the car ran worse. To really optimise you would need to be able to adjust the spark angle as well.
