nah don't really want a sub. Takes up bootspace. And costs money ha. Just hope I won't need to replace the HU cos that will cost.... Why is it that all amp wiring kits on fleabay only come with 1 RCA cable?
you wont have to replace the h/u,as i said you can get a voltage divider(converts your normal speaker wires to rca) there about a tenner,but its poss your amp may do this you only need one rca cable which has red and white on,one for left one for right,each side has a plus and - to it
WOOP WOOP it's here End Other end I think it's pretty self-explanatory.. Except I don't know what the 4-pin power socket is for. Or the LPF (80Hz) switch. or the Level dial... I'm excited now... Just need to find a wiring kit
lpf-low pass filter for when using a sub,filters all the mid and high frequencies out and leaves all the low for good bass and the 4 pin is for high level input as i mentioned earlier so if your h/u hasnt got rca,s you can use that(voltage divider)
Dumb question time, what fuse do I need? If I remember my physics correctly 222W at 12v needs 18.5A? So I'd need a 20A resistor or something like that?
your calculation is correct and as you can see the amp already has a 20amp fuse in,but i think you also have to take into considderation the size of the speakers too and how much current draw comes from them,best thing to do is start with a 20a fuse (not resistor)then if it pops when you crank the tunes up use a 25a,,mine use 30amp fuses but i have 240w speakers each side and 300w sub having a 20a in the amplifier and a 20a inline you should be wel proected make sure you get a good earth too,i use the rear seat belt harnesses under the back seat good thick wire helps too
the online user manual is saying use a 15a fuse so id do just that tbh http://www.fixya.com/support/p230133-sony_xm_222_car_audio_amplifier/manual-15614/page-2
ah thanks for the manual link, that'll be helpful. I bought a #19.99 wiring kit from Maplin. As much as the amp!!! Looks like decent wire though. 10 gauge for the power cable. 16 for the speakers... actually no it doesn't. damnit I should've gotten a kit off the bay but I need it this week... But still, it's great to see I can still wire up a sub and run it all off one amp. it'll be horribly quiet though, won't it? it only pushes 100w per channel =(
no,you cant wire a sub and run off same amp,im sure you cant its either 2 chanel or 1 for the sub youl bridge the amp hence where the low pass filter comes in,and the wirings different,for a sub you use + from left and - from right where it says btl(which every time i see reminds me of bacon tom and letuce for some reason)
i can see where youve got that from now mate yes you can do it that way but youl need a crossover for the sub(the little squiggle on the diagram to the left of the sub) and it will sound pants and put alot of strain on the amp this way
Damnit, problem... I bought these but they're too close together for my HU (Alpine TDM-7543M). Any idea what kind of key I'm supposed to use? The manual doesn't say nor do I get any hits for Alpine Removal Keys on fleabay. Am I supposed to use these? Wait, thought. Since my HU has 4 channels and a separate output for the amp doesn't that mean I can run the 6x9's in conjunction with the original 6x4's without damaging the HU or drawing too much power from one place??
alot of keys are different for security reasons,so youl have to get the correct ones ,try halfords yes you can run the 6x4,straight fron the h/u but youl drowned them with the others rca's are usually in line with the rear fader so id connect the 6x4's to the front output of the h/u this way you can use the fader to balance them a bit when you get the h/u out tell me what wires you have at the back
http://www.fixya.com/support/p199037-alpine_tdm_7543/manual-2190 looks like it has pre outs (rca's)for the amp looking at the link so yea just wire the small ones to the front speaker outputs
In conjunction with the original front speakers or remove front speakers and have 6x4's off the front and 6x9's off preout? then all my sound will be coming out the back =\
sorry i thort they were going in front,mmm make the 6x4's redundant then,when you get the big ones going on the amp you wont miss them,then leave the fronts wired up as they are,upgrading the fronts in the dash can be done but ids probly better(if you wand the quadraphonic sound) to have a tweeter in the dash and a mid range speaker in the door,but that blows the budget away,i.e youl need tho buy the mid range and tweeters and crossovers and door pockets with speaker holes you may find that you can still here the standard fronts when you get the big ones running as they are very close to your ears trial and error
