K-jet metering head strip down and rebuild thread

Those 4 filters are exactly where you point to . The kit you are watching is definitely a more comprehensive kit than what I saw and bought.
I was going to list the missing seals from my pack, but yours has them all. Definitely the one to get.
I have just refitted the pivot arm etc to the air meter housing, which went easier than expected. Thanks to you pointing out the longer side that has the spring against the pin I realised the arm does not sit equal to the casting. So I measured further down the main body to get my centre point even though the large airflow disc is adjustable. I managed to get an even gap all around this and the disc passes through the gap without any contact.
A new spring is on order for the centre plunger just to be sure

 

Thanks, wouldn't have realised they were there otherwise.

Heart in mouth stuff getting them out, had expected them to get chewed up in the process but seem to have survived (just incase they're needed).

Was going to just leave them alone but curiosity got the better of me and also wanted to be sure they weren't clogged for example.

Thankfully seem to be as good as new, hopefully it's an indicator as to the distributors overall condition.

Bit different looking to the repro. ones though, but as long as they do their job that doesn't matter.

They are tiny, the (crappy) photo doesn't represent just how small they really are...

 

same as mine, which too were clean.
2 x o rings that I realised aren't in any pack are the 2 on the airflap hinge pin. I picked 2 up locally, just a thought.
I keep seeing posts mention the banjo's with a gauze filter, but havent seen these on my supply or at the large WUR banjo. Does yours have these?

 

There's a filter in the larger of the 2 x ports of the WUR itself, maybe it's that?

 

First few posts on the link below may be relevant, though don't have anything like that on my own...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/160029-cis-k-jet-help.html

 

Found the primary pressure regulator from the Volvo while looking for the other bits and finally got it to open up.

It's very crusty but on the surface of it looks to be the same as the one in the MK1, though suppose there may be unseen differences like spring rates / apperture sizes etc. making them incompatible.

Took me a while to suss it out but there's a very small circlip that holds on a collar that inturn holds back the spring.

Get all that off and the middle bit pulls out of the main part via the cap.

There is another 'O' ring in there after all, if you've a very small one spare from your kit at the end of things it's likely were it's meant to go.

 

Looks that way.
Rebuild question on the air flap. Does this look correct. Mainly the metal that seems to act as a damper

 

Looks spot-on... My understanding is there's what they call a 'zero' position for the sensor plate when it's at rest.

You can partly set where that is by flexing the crooked clip that holds down on the spring arm by moving it left or right (makes the spring arm rise or fall a small amount).

Bigger adjustments can be made by punching the pin resting on the spring arms end in or out but I'd image it was factory set and it would probably need to be badly out to have to resort to that.

I did glance over something a while back about identifying what the 'zero' postion was but would need to find / read it again.

 

My worry was that the flat piece was in the wrong position and should be on top of the spring clip.... I think it is correct now as there is a small mark on it from the stud off of the pivot arm.
Still waiting on a new plunger spring and found that the salvox 0 ring that sits between the fuel regulater and air box is really skinny compared to the old one. So I won't be using it.
I have had all of the banjo bolts soaking in Bilt Hamber DEOX-C and they have come out looking great. Nice bare metal but I dont know what to protect them with.
I am trying the same with the injector line ends, but may replace these.
What are you doing with your injector lines?

 

I sort of have how this works mapped out in my head, but trying to put that down in writing isn't coming together very well but here goes -

From what I can see the primary pressure regulator has two sides to it.

The separate plunger affair at it's tip helps maintain the overall system pressure by bleeding off excess fuel back to the tank.

Think that's why adding or subtracting shims to its function can have an impact on the larger spring thereby raising or lowering it as needs be.

The smaller pin like affair with the lesser spring that sits inside the main body helps instead to regulate the control pressure (that works on the fuel distributors plunger) in conjuction with the WUR.

The sealing performed by that little 'O' ring when the ignition is off acts as a non-return valve thereby maintaining system pressure.

It's preventing fuel getting back in, not seeping out.

 

My lines look to have been replaced at some point but it must've been a very long time ago as they're definitely not pristine.

Replacements are expensive and ideally as long as they're sound I'd like to refurb. but haven't gone beyond just thinking about it yet.

Came across something about the plunger spring you're replacing - Like a lot of the other bits'n'pieces it seems to do more than one job and all of the pretty critcal. From what I gather it helps maintain the control pressure on the plunger in the event that the system pressure dips plus helps dampen / control the force acting upwards from the moving air flow sensor arm.

Amazing ingenuity of the designers... more and more in awe of them the better I understand it.

 

Meant to say, came across these. My originals are ever so slighly shorter than the measurements given but even so do look to be suitable.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18511855...5ZEwbxtWHIvtCoevRl3e3ht+A=|tkp:Bk9SR87hid64YQ

They also seem to be everywhere, so doubtless cheaper elsewhere.

 

Tried to find an image on the inter-web of a sticker that'd survived a bit better, but no luck.

This is on a spare disc that came with the Peugeot K-jet kit I'd picked up, but unfortunately it's quite worn, though maybe you can still see what's shown?

There's '1.9' marked on it... the only measurement I can get to match that is the dimension where the profile of the cone at it's bottom falls straight down briefly before expanding out again... all seems to tally with RJ's image but why it'd need to be high-lighted I'm not sure?

Handily there's a visble tide mark has developed on the aluminium surface of my cone, probably through use for so long... the disc sits exactly where it should if you use it as a reference.

 

Mine too has a slight tide mark. Seems to be in the correct position.
Next question is regarding the Aux. Air valve attached to this unit. I have cleaned mine up and was going to refit it, but thought I best test it. So what does it do, create a vacuum when 12v is applied. If so, which terminal is positive?
I will be disappointed if it doesn't work, but I suppose now is the time to sort it

 

This

 

Must be a MK2 thing, don't have one of those...

Found these, refers to KE-jetronic (electronic) but the principle seems similar - also references what the 1.9 of the sticker means.

 

I'm just reading the Bentley manual and it says this!