K-jet metering head strip down and rebuild thread

Discussion in 'K-Jetronic OEM injection' started by Cressa, Jan 14, 2023.

  1. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Bentley and RJ's info. is right for K-jet, looks like KE-jet is slightly different... learning all the time!

    Here's the place that remanufactures / sells either individually or as a kit the primary pressure regulator shims (in the 4 various original thicknesses) if you don't want to make or source your own.

    https://www.deloreango.com/uk/fuel-pressure-regulator-shims.html

    With the DeLorean also having K-jet means they do other stuff too, some looks to be compatible with our cars... worth having a mooch about the site.

    Noticed the airflow sensor genuine long wire bung's avaiable plus their own slant on the blue one -

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    Does a vacuum close the electrical circuit to be made at this part?
     
  3. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    Not a bad price at VW classic
    Screenshot_20230120-154505_Chrome.jpg
     
  4. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    I tested it today. Open circuit as it sits.
    I then put a vacuum to it, which it held.... and still an open circuit so thinking it may be bust !
     
  5. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yup... usually cheaper at source, it's the postage that's the killer on things like this unless it's included in a bigger order to spread the cost.

    Re-sellers are good at bumping up the prices despite having the advantage of bringing stuff in, in bulk / cutting those costs.
     
  6. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    I have just wiped/lubed the plunger with fuel. Wow, it works so much better. Just tightening the nut up to this and realise that somewhere I have seen a height of the threaded part to the nut... just can't find it again.
    I did receive some shiny new banjo bolts and the 3 screws for the fuel head, so would like to screw it to the body and put it out of the way for a few days.
     

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  7. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    I did a bit of research on the vacuum switch that the mk2 has. Turns out it should be a closed circuit with NO vacuum, open circuit with Vacuum...
    Mine is open all the time so a replacement is needed. I will open this up to see what goes off in there.
    I also put the fuel regulator on the main body. Tightening the 3 screws (35nm) did stop the air flap from seating correctly. Backing them off allowed it to sit comfortably. So for now I have put threadlock on the screws and it all works fine. Maybe I have tightened the plunger nut too much and it is causing this. I really need to find how many threads to the nut this should be
    But it does all look nice for now. Until testing time
     

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    Last edited: Jan 22, 2023
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  8. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Looks the doggies, bet you're pleased.

    Becoming a bit of a K-jet junkie, very clever set up / rewarding to work on. Famous last words maybe, wait until I'm trying to get it running properly!

    Odd that the air flow sensor plate should go out of true just by tightening down the fuel distributor.

    I'd have thought the aluminium body was plenty rigid enough for it not to for example flex, must be some other influence at play.

    Perhaps the different instructions you see are assuming that when setting up of the plates zero position it's being done after the fuel distributor is secured... just guessing?

    I think my posting up about the KE-jetronic with it's slightly different air flow plate setting up procedure was a mistake... interesting but for our purposes it's just confusing things.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2023
  9. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks, I am pleased and just hope it will all work.
    Tightening the 3 screws seems to stop the plate from fully returning to its rest position, as if the plunger is then too deep and perhaps pressing down causing this..
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I'd think the valve will only go closed circuit if it sees a rapid drop in vacuum. when idling, it'll see vacuum from the nearly closed throttle but it shouldnt be making the 5th injector spray any fuel in for obvious reasons. its only supposed to close on hard throttle, so a gradual loss of vacuum shouldn't do anything either... I've not actually read anything on how to actually test them and have just presumed they're working on the 16v I have owned :lol:
     
  11. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Did your refurb. kit have a little 'O'' ring left over that might be for the primary pressure regulator?
     
  12. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    No, unfortunately not. It seemed to be missing quite a few for a full rebuild
     
  13. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    This was the grey goose video where he went through the cold start, but explained about that aux. Valve electric being closed circuit until it receives a vacuum
     
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  14. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    I received the new vacuum switch today, along with a bung for the Co tube ( so small). I tested the new switch and had an interesting result.
    No vacuum - open circuit on the connection
    Holding vacuum - open circuit on the connection
    Vacuum being released - closed circuit
    So I retested my old one, which still didn't do anything - Bin it
    And VW classic are going Environmentally friendly with paperbags
     

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  15. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Great that they weren't long getting the stuff to you, good to know.

    I wouldn't bin anything just yet, 'till you get the engine up and running at any rate.

    Original may end up working OK once fitted and be a good spare or the new one have issues of its own (hopefully not, but never can tell).
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yep that aligns with what I suspected, you dont want extra fuel at idle or open throttle, just as you're booting it so a rapid drop in vacuum. guess theres a damper inside which prevents switch contacts closing on gentle vacuum release vs rapid
     
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  17. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just to update on here, I connected things up and did a flow test on my injectors. See the picture, but nothing from No2 line. I did swap the injectors around and still nothing, so ,maybe a problem in my fuel distributor/regulator
    20230219_171721.jpg 20230219_171721.jpg
     
  18. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    The flow rate ratio adjusters (one each beneath the 4 x hex caps with the little green 'o' rings) on the top of the fuel distributor, perhaps #2, too far in?

    flow rate.jpg
     
  19. Cressa Paid Member Paid Member

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    I got the hex cap off eventually as an allen key wouldn't fit, so what tool did I use before? I did screw it in to see how many turns ... 1 and a half. I shall back it off more and try again, tomorrow if I am lucky.
    My major concern is that fuel was squirting even though the sensor plate was shut ! Suggesting that this needs adjusting lower perhaps ?
    It is a learning curve and a journey I can learn from.
    I also wondered if the filter before the injector hose could have become blocked... so will check that too.
     
  20. Zender Z20

    Zender Z20 Paid Member Paid Member

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    You mentioned before about the plate sticking when you tightened down the bolts holding the housing.

    Got to say that surprised me as I'd have thought it was too rigid a casting to flex, but have read something since that touched on the same thing and it's something they recommended you be aware of.

    Solution wasn't a surprise, just to back them off and ensure they're not overly tight / evenly done... maybe re-jiggling yours might be enough to get the plate back to it's zero position?

    Another thing I read was the potential for air locks after lines have been taken off / fuel distributor worked on.

    The changing of injectors suggests it's not them.

    Can you swap over the fuel line from #2 for another, just in case it's being constricted or blocked, either at it's fuel distributor end or even along it's length?

    I'm learning too, problem is it's all through theory at the moment... no working system to test / practice on.
     

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