lots of little things, please help!!

so i'll put a meatier fuse in, job done

 

the carb problem...

i had a 2e2 on my driver, i bet yours has the auto choke? (in girls terms, there is no choke cable you have to mess with to start it)

if so, it needs adjusting. this is done by loosening the bolts on the auto choke unit, its the part bolted to the passenger side of the carb with water hoses going to it. you need to adjust it until the butterfly has 6mm clearance when cold - check haynes manual for more info.

this is what caused me many many problems on mine, i had to re-adjust it every couple of weeks in winter.

cheers

scott

 

cheers scotty i'll have my personal mechanic jolfa have a fiddle

started taping all the plastic up (door membranes?) so hoping this will sort it.

last night i had hot air coming out of the blowers, not blowing out just coming out and it didnt change when i changed the blower switchs position...

 

cant work out your hot blowers, taped up the bare wires, fuse didnt blow, but still no blowers

unless the earth has blown for that aswell... electrics isnt my strong point...

 

loss of water could also be head gasket?

 

no white smoke, no mayo, would make sense though, it is really slow, though i am used to my 16v...

 

Come on you chaps .. One of you do the gentlemanly thing and fix the nice ladies heater matrix . Its obviously the problem with the condensation , wet carpets , and now broken ( wet ) heater blower motor . please dont try using a heavier fuse to cure inoperative blowers . Theres a problem there already if it blows the correct rated fuse you dont want to create more by melting wires or worse.. If the heater matrix does decide to kick the bucket for good it could burst sending a cloud of steam through the heater pipes in the dash and right onto the window screen .. I am speaking from experience hear to . This is not a good thing to happen whilst driving because you cant see a damn thing in front of you do the right thing boys..

 

condensation and wet carpets im putting down to ALL the door membranes not being sealed, the heater blower has the correct fuse now, which isnt blowing, but still no blowers

 

Hi .. A quick way to see if your heater matrix has gone without getting your coolant system pressure checked is remove the passenger side lower dash tray .. You should see the blower motor housing and ducting to the dash board .. On the bottom of the ducting there should be a pre formed foam wrap held on by three screws .. Remove one or all of these screws , if water comes out of the holes your matrix has gone and its soaked your heater motor which is stopping it from working .. Worth a look as it should only take 10 mins .. I’m not sure it will be the door membranes as I havent had my drivers membrane fitted for well over two years and my carpet is bone dry ..

 

yeah agree with rubjonny replace the motor check the scuttle drains are not clogged these will fill your car with water very quickly if they are. (espcially if you park your car under trees as all the bits falling off the trees clogs the drain holes pretty quickly)

heater matrix isnt really that bad of a job once you have done it once, problem is most people only do it once.

as long as you dont fook around with the little metal clips and just take the whole housing out including heater motor housing its much easier and quicker

the heater motor comes out in about 5 secs take the connector off and feel around the the back of the motor(i think) there is a little tab that stops the bottom of the housing from turning. pull the tab down and twist the motor one way or another and it all comes straight off

you can use a motor from a seat toeldo and i think corrado maybe even mk3 they have an extra connector because they have an extra speed but the mk2 plug plugs straight in no worries (at least it did on mine).

i would say that loss of water in engine and lots of mainsture in the window is definately heater matrix some of the guides on here are pretty good

again tho dont fart around with metial clips its pointless there is one screw and one bolt in the engine bay to get the motor housing out attached to the airbox will save you about 2 hours lol

 

Mixidub,

I've just repaired a leaky door membrane in mine, and (as I've seen others saying on here) you need to be absolutely certain that there is not the tiniest crease in the plastic or gap in the glue etc., because the water will find it. To get it done properly (I tried several half-hearted attempts and they didn't work) you'll need to glue (not tape) it, and remove the clips at the bottom of the door before you do, so you can glue it all the way along. It's tempting to tape it and not to worry about removing the clips, but it just won't do the job, in my experience.

Can of spray glue is 5 from Halfords. Make up a new bottom part of the door skin for nothing using an old polythene carrier pag. Perfect seal.

I had a problem with a car before where the heater fuses kept blowing. It was down to a build-up of graphite dust around the armature in the motor, shorting across it. Fortunately it was easy to remove and clean. Not sure whether it's so easy on the Golf.

Stop flapping and panicking and actually start fixing things :-)

-Mark

 

I use the black guttering sealant for the door membrains! - The Range sell it for 99p a tube - great stuff

 

for your over-revving on start up issues, my guess is either that the waxstat is seized fully extended, the thermotime valve is knacked (or not getting 12v - more likely) or that Johnny's guess of a blocked waterway is correct. Top guess would be the TTV though

for the stalling on roundabouts, I am guessing that your hot-air feed to the carb is damaged and also that the small heater on the front of the carb is knacked or not getting 12v.

Have you checked that the fuse for the carb electrics is still ok? and is this a 1.3 or a 1.6?

as its a rear footwell water feature it's unlikely to be a heater matrix causing it, my guess is door membranes and seals.

change the heater blower for a new one, 10ish on ebay?

let me know if you find where your water is going, I'm losing a load too!!

enjoy

 

right i'm slowly but surely sorting the door membranes - typical that my one afternoon/evening free is impossible to use due to weather!)

my battery keeps dying, jolfa seems to think battery is fine but something is draining it - could this be linked with the blowers?

sooooooo annoying having it sat outside costing me lots of money and not being able to fix it or drive is all sounds like pretty simple stuff but i cant be messin about with the important bits coz i'll break it properly

i've also got to work every hour possible for the next month coz im going snowboarding in half term so have no time money or knowledge to fix it so now i just wanna get rid but i cant coz i wouldnt even get a tenner how it is now

anybody wanna buy a lovely 1.6 driver in med met blue? only a few problems but nothing major if youre handy with cars other than that its a great little car

 

Battery draining won't be anything to do with the blowers, as they're not connected when the car's switched off.

It's probably a knackered battery, but to satisfy yourself, go for a drive to charge it up, switch if off and then start it up again to prove to yourself that it's got charge.
Then disconnect it (just pull off one of the battery leads, either one) and leave it over night. That way nothing can possibly drain it.
In the morning, lead back on, try to start it. If the battery's flat, it's gone flat all by itself.

-Mark

 

pure genius

cheers!

 

pretty sure the battery is fine, its one of my spare ones