Just ordered the olive from Rally Design... 11.75 they should have mentioned I needed this when I ordered the manifold, so they've knocked off the postage of 3.50. Is the Spring method instead of, or, as well as the flexipipe method?
Yes, the Ashley one looks like this: You get the manifold and a - just shy of a 10", 2.25" pipe with that flared end on it that meets upto the manifold flange.
Olive fits to the right of the collector on the ledge. [What are RD doing selling that stuff incomplete? They want their @rses kicking. The olives are a rip off for that money also - use Kwik Fit / motor factors.] Use springs as well as the flexipipe. Reason being that it had been run without flexi in another installation, albeit without a rear poly mount, and 4-branches were cracking.
RD mentioned it's a kit with the olive so possible nuts and bolts, dont think it'll be springs but I'll see when they arrive or phone them tomorrow to clairfy. So for the flexpipe do you have to cut the piece of 2.25" down enough so you can get the flange in and room for a clamp and then use a length of flexpipe to meet upto the reducer and into the system?
You will have to modify the 2.25", yes. I agree with everything in the second para you wrote. Presume you're using a poly front snubber?
my supersprint didnt have a flexi joint and yep,to hell with the vibrations again,powerflow,2.50! neil.
ahh right m8,yeah same as mine,no flexijoint. its good how the split manifold allows fitting without removing the roll bar though! neil.
That's the olive joint. Flexi joint is pipe which bends slighlty. The Volvo 1.7 Turbo part I used was Bosal 327-177 / Timax V0263T Clicky This had a 2.25 ID at one end and 2 & 3/8 *OD* at the other. The purpose of it was so that the larger section would fit outside the 440 rear silencer exit to give on continuous 2 3/8 OD pipe. These are very subtley stepped tubes, but happened to fit the application I had (I was using a different dia pipe after the olive joint and was using a 2.5 inch Jetex system). Your alternative is the Bosal 328-203 which is a smaller diameter take a trip to Factors with a ruler and see whether any use. Theres no dimensions listed on the site. This shows the full list of 440 applications scroll down till you see the no. Clicky Must stress though, that this dug me out of the spot I was in, so may / may not be your answer.
Cheers for that. I have both the front and rear bugpack mounts, I got a slight gearbox whine from when they were on the 1.3. Should I need to use the flexpipe and spring methods or would I actually be ok with both the bugpack mounts on? Is there still a slight chance I could crack the manifold even with the harder mounts? The side mounts are new genuine items. Oh bugger.
Well it's a personal choice but IMHO best to allow for some movement on the exhaust fitting. Even poly bushes will allow some engine movement so on that basis (IMHO) I would design some flex in to it before putting a ~200 4 branch at risk. Hard use - accelerating, qtr miles, gear changing etc - does give the exhaust a workout. Your old 1.3 had a corrugated pipe under there, which is basically the same idea.
James, i think that kit you're buying will have the donut thing, 3 nuts, bolts, washers and springs, which i think is what i got in the end. also <dribble> that supersprint look very shiny sometimes i wish i wasn't so tight
Cool, that would be a 1/3 of the problem sorted then, just need to investigate the flexpipe and reducer now if indeed RD send me all that.
I didn't get any acessories with my manifold from TSR Cheers for the answers guys, i thought it would use an olive but didn't know what they were called, will bodge something up to make it work..... cheers again Ro
Mine is a mk2 but my TSR stainless 4 branch uses the olive joint with bolts and springs, you'll definately be needing the springs to allow it to move. I did the springs up too tight (they were pretty much completely compressed) and even with my solid alloy front mount and brand new rear 16v/G60 mounts, I managed to crack a weld on the pipe that comes after the olive joint Lucky it wasnt the 4 branch itself. Its possible the crack could have happened before the new mounts went in, so cant be certain whether or not its really needed with a good engine mount setup. I'd definately have it anyway, just incase.
i use the front poly mount, i use the poly side mount insertsbut i trimmed them down and used the original mk1 rubbers in between the inserts and chasis to stop vibrations. so far i has worked well with no engine movement and minimal vibration.
Ashley Fitting Kit: Now where do the gaskets live (at the top of the picture) and the two items to the bottom left of the olive go, I'm presuming either end of the spring inside both flanges? Does it matter which is on what side?
This is V interesting. Those bolts and collars are not to disimilar to those on a Pug 306 Rallye. And the 306 has an olive, although I think it's bigger than 2.25". 10mm nuts will confirm... OK, bolts go: * through the silver collars to the left of the pic * through both exhaust flanges, from the front if I recall * through the springs * through the bronze coloured washers at the bottom of the pic (with washer turned edges facing the springs) * & then nuts The nuts/washers are designed to be nipped up to the full because they settle at the lower machined edge of the bolt so that the springs don't go coilbound. Check this is the case. If the bolts don't appear long enough, take out the silver collars. I recognise them as a Pug item, but they are designed for that specific application but the flange on the Ashley (well, mine anyway) is flat. Having said that those funny washers at the top of the pic have lost me though. Perhaps try interchanging the silver collars with the 'funny' washers. HTH
