Exactly as Chris said, except i think the funny looking washers at the top of the pic go on 1 side of the spring against the manifold flange, that said i ended up removing them as the bolt wasn't quite long enough. Also the donut thing (better name than a olive! ) was a fatherless child to get over the flange on the exhaust, it was just a touch too small and needed some abuse to make it fit. edit due to rethink! Edited by: I V - mk1 16v
Any tips on fitting the olive with the manifold on the car Ian? Is it possible to cheat and make a cut in the olive, making it slip onto the manifold easily? I'm guessing when the bolts are done up that the flared part on the 10" section of straight pipe (pictured below) will compress the olive, thus still creating a good seal? Or is that a no, no?
Sorry to change the thread, but i have a mk 1 project i bought from someone with a 1.8 16V to go into it and i noticed the engine mounts were 2 poly's and one standard so thankyou for clearing that up for me.I have a 205 sprint/hillclimb car with poly's all round and i think i am helping you keep locktite in business and i didn/t want the same with the golf!! My main question is i noticed along the bottom of your picture the 160BHP figure and the 0-60 time, how did you get the BHP to 160, thats what i am looking for a healthy improvement given the weight of the car without being wild!!!, and what gearbox are you running to get the sub 6 secs 0-60, i have a 9A but with a 3.67 FD, what FD do you have and who supplies the parts to make them shorter i am looking for about a 4 Thanx
The 0-60 time was done with a standard 16v box with a 3.67FD and the engine was standard apart from a homemade ram air system into a K&N filter, + the 4 branch manifold with a 2.5" jetex exhaust and a rolling road tune at stealth. Oh yeah it had me as the driver!! I have now fitted an abf to the mk1 with a FD gearbox from a mk1 which has a 3.89FD and it's much quicker. On a seperate note i needed to get a new donut for the manifold and for reference the donut alone was 3.80 from my local factors and it's from a peugeot 205 gti. (as is the rest of the ashley fitting kit.) Also I cut down the bugpack side mount inserts, so they were a looser fit and fitted them into some new GSF mounts and it's heaps better than it was, still very little engine movement (a bit more than before) but hardly any bad vibes in the cabin.
..pop-pop...pop-bang... bang-pop... nearly got the engine running this evening anti-lag/spitfire style with just the 4-1 manifold on. Needs a fully charged battery and I think that'll be it (hopefully!), then of course add the system, tidy the wires etc. Back to the exhaust stuff () could I cut the olive to aid fitment or will that be asking for trouble and possible leaks when I come to tighten up the flanges together? Or do you mean you had to get a new one because you cut yours and it leaked? How did you go about fitting the new one and was the manifold on the car?
james,you could use a circular file on the manifold side of the olive to help it go on a little easier. just do a bit at a time neil.
Aidy, you'll need an 8v centre disc for using the mk1 'box on a 16v (16v pressure plate) Think the 4K is from a mk1 GTI (anyone?), but the F code mk1 'boxes do use a 3.89 FD.. I've just had a 3.89 FD fitted into my 2y 16v 'box. Parts are 188+ vat from VAG Edited by: GVK
Hi GVK Thanx for your reply, For the 188 which parts did you get?? was it a straight sw*p for the bits in ths 2Y, i appreciate you might not know but would the parts be a straight sw*p in a 9A box?? I think i have just about got the clutch and parts i need sorted, a friend works for LUK clutches who supply GSF car aprts!!! but from what you are saying i need the 8V plate and a 16V cover but i think the release bearings and the rest of the clutch kit needs to be for the 8V box not the 16V engine??? Thanx for this help its much appreciated Aidy
In my case, it was a new crown wheel and pinion (main shaft) for the 16v box, Stealth had to fit a 4th gear from an ACD 8v box (same ratio as a 16v 4th) (thanks Hotgolf) If a 9A was an 8v mk1 'box, yes it would be a straight swap. As you say, the release bearing will need to be for the box you're using, pretty sure they're all the same on an 020 'box anyway, I would have thought.
james, i'm replacing the donut cos it has been a leaking a bit since i've tilted the engine back a bit and it's a bit miss shaped. The one i brought from the factors was the wrong one thou' it was a 2.5" dia rather than 2.25". [:^(] . The gearbox is an FD code from a mk1, it's got the same ratios as the mk2 16v box and a 3.89FD, and its great. Rebuilt by Hotgolf. I use a 16v pressue plate and a 210mm 8v friction plate against a hotgolf lightened flywheel.
Have to point out that if anyone out there is going to put shorter final drive into a 16v box then its not too straight forward. 1: you'll have to find an 8v 4th gear as the 16v one doesn't fit on the 8v pinion/output shaft 2: can't remember which way around it is but the iside diameter(hole) in 1 of the crown wheels is smaller than the other so 1 won't fit on the other. Can be machined out though. I tend to machine the crown wheel but be warned, they're hard as f**k! edit: yup the clutch release bearings are all the same on the 020 5 speeds........... when you remember to fit them sorry Ian Edited by: Hotgolf
Thanx for your help guys I have just found a company on the web who is selling a 4.25 fd crown wheel and pinion set for my 9A gearbox 199, when i can find someone to service the box and syncros i will ask them to fit this as well. Its a bit shorter than i wanted but should give me quite good acceleration!!!! and flat out about 125mph which isn't too bad!!!
Bloody 'ell mate thats far to expensive. Bearings uk is the bloke. Nice chap but the final drives are far too much.
Yeah you got the company.. What should i be paying then realistically?? will reply to your pm tomorrow thanx Aidy
