ok. so if it doesnt work with the 167 relay and the 2 pin plug connected as standard, either the ecu is bad or issue between the plug and ecu on the red/yellow. check ecu pins all tight and and clean. if its an early kr loom the 2 pin plug has spades and is unsealed so could have corrosion on terminals or on the copper hidden under insulation
you can drive it about with the 18 relay in, only thing is it wont cut out if you crash so not safe long term. can always try a spare 67/80/167 see if that sorts it
Its just to run it up for the first time, won't be moved hasn't got any seats or interior in lol. Just to make sure everything works
It doesn't run even with the pump constantly running. Any ideas? Loosing the will to live at the moment lol
Ok this is what I know. I have spark When the fuel pump is constantly running with 18 relay I have fuel when I lift the flap up. It doesn't run with 167 in normal place and 18 relay in slot 2. Sorry when I said ran it must of been a bit of fuel igniting after injector test. Rev counter has moved but not wiggled
Morning Rj Good news o got it running with everything in its rightful place and rev counter is working. It still doesn't seem to want to idle and really struggles to start. My theory is the isv not producing enough suction to lift the flap with the 4volts its seeing to make it idle. To test this I was gonna give it a direct 12v feed from the battery for testing purposes to see whether I get more out of it. Does sound like a good idea? Thanks Ian
ok, go thru my 16v guide again checking the 5th injector in particular if its struggling on a cold start. make sure the isv control unit has a good 12v and earth, probe between the black and brown/white on the module. you can probe the white and white/black while running, one of them is voltage to isv the other is the pulsed earth (dont check volts across the plug, as the signal is pulsed you wont see proper voltage)
Ok I will check those things, I can't check anything while running as it barely starts and when it does I have to hold the throttle at 3000rpm. Where should the flap sit inside the metering head. Where it naturally sits and not any higher?
Morning rj Thanks for the set up guide, really was helpful. I found loose connect between thermotime switch and 5th injector, that could be contributing to poor starting? Also whole checking the run off valve (black and grey) put 12v to it it clicked and 0.2 wire got hot, is that ok due to size of the wire? I'm gonna try start it tonight, am I best to start it up with the red/black single spade coil connector disconnected to set up the idle? Thanks
if its bad enough to drop voltage then maybe, get it sorted either way. wires a bit on the thin side so could be why yeah once engien is warmed start without the red/black plugged in and tweak idle