Yup, looking good. That gap'll show when the valve's 'cold'... as it warms it slowly closes. You can test it by passing a 12v current through it to make sure it's working. I used the Peugeot tester pictured, so can't say if it matters what way around + and - are, just in case something shorts doing it incorrectly! Because of that wait 'til RJ comments before trying. Interestingly I got the same Ohmns reading for the MK1's as Peugeot state is correct for the 205. Haven't really made an effort to find out the MK1's other figures yet, might well match too. Still just scratching the surface of K-jet, very early days but reading plenty.
as its a heater you can wire it either way, same with the wur. but I always wire it the right way, becasue thats how VW did it
Slowly discovering what some of the different bits in the Peugeot test kit are for as I find and read things on the inter-web such as the obvious ones like the gauge / flexi pipes / etc., (though there's a few home made looking items in there too, might never find out what they are). Biggest puzzle for me is the holed disc with the flexible rubber piece. Exactly matches the dimensions of the standard solid airflow sensor plate... that's a spare one which also came with the kit pictured beside it for comparison. Would love to find out if it's part of the kit (and what it tests if it is) or maybe just a second different type from some other car make. Below are a few pics. of most of the contents, any ideas on what they are or for and purpose would be genuinely interesting to hear...
Cheers... there's quite a few loose spare bits like that included that I've not pictured as there's no mention of them in the contents drawings. I'm assuming they're useful and just came as a bonus. You've probably heard me grumbling about VW's part numbering, but that's outstanding when compared to Peugeots. The entire kit seems to have originally been catalogued as 8.0141 As it was upgraded over the years they added ZZ to that, then ZY and ZX - seems to have been withdrawn in 1983 before a ZW could be issued, so they worked in reverse alphabetical order... mad French!
The way back machine is seriously awesome, I’ve used it to go through old local forum classifieds that don’t exist anymore to find old for sale ads of the GTX’s that I’ve owned, I’d put it up for one of the best websites on the internet!
Spur of the moment thing, garage was actually free of clutter and took the opportunity to pull out the engine / box...
Discovered a small break in the airbox, one of the two stubs that push into the supporting bracket holes had probably been forced in the past and was about to part company. It'd been glued back into place at some point and would likely have done it's job fine, but it got me looking if replacements were available. Short answer is no, only used ones and they unfortunately seem to now go for serious money which I don't have to spend. Upside was that while hunting read that the Volvo 240 Injection also ran K-jet and that it's metal airbox is more or less a straight swop onto the VW air flow meter, deletes the middle plastic part as well as the original airbox. Think it was done way back when so a cone filter or better cold air ducting could be achieved over the standard set up. Maybe a crock but it's the sort of old school mod. that appeals. Picked one up for a fraction of a VW plastic item and sure enough fits perfectly, just have to fabricate a bracket using those 2x Volvo mounts, but should be straight forward. Same gasket works with either.
Split the 'box off the block... probably going to send both off eventually for a once over, new guides and seals etc., everythings been sitting far too long not to. Got this wee cheapy gadget a while ago for the MK2, been useful for a few other jobs too. Takes the copper sleeve out of the bell housing in a blink. The old one has begun to almost crumble, just shows you what age can do.
Carnage... just cut one of the tie rods for ease of removal, it's semi-seized anyhow. That's more or less the shell stripped save for the dash / heater etc. but that's no biggie and hopefully gone in a day or two. Gearbox oil is jet black, probably as old as the car. After the MK2 I've been paying particular attention to this side of things, take off bearing looks original too but not overly worn. Clutch is likewise in good nick (and a VW / LuK, though at 165K hardly the original), all to be replaced with the same in time so hopefully none of the issues there was with that other car. Just can't get the cylinder head bolts undone, using the correct XZN socket etc., but stopped play today. The MK2's came apart very easily, probably more muscle or a bigger breaker bar required.
Steering column boot has an insert I wasn't expecting, there was nothing comparable on the MK2's - just checked 7Zap (5A) part# 171 419 547 A. Guy on eBay (and maybe a member here?) was doing the heat retardent covers a while back, not sure they're still available though, but a clever idea I thought.... already have the MK2 version on that car and fits / work perfectly, recommended.
Managed to get the head bolts undone... longer bar did the trick, but they were on tight! Took the head to a local place to get an opinion and they surprised me by taking it in with a turnaround of just a few weeks (heard that one before), waiting times for anything these days seems to run into the months. The place that did the MK2's block are at least a month of work behind, though I'm not in a big panic and isn't a problem. It'll go down next week to join the queue and got a preliminary clean / paint. I know it'll not come back in the same state, but a tidy up later is a lot easier than starting completely afresh, plus doing it this way about should keep the risk of dirt getting in to a minimum. No surprise I suppose but the MK2 block had the same foundry mark of 'Eisenwerk Bruehl', seem to be still on the go - http://www.eb-bruehl.com/en/
Nice work I'm in a similar state of engine rebuild! I love your Z20 postings as my Gti has a Z20 kit. Zender FTW!
Took a few days away from the cars, all getting a bit too intense and was forgetting it's only supposed to be a hobby. This is the eBay seller who was making the thermal covers - https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/chrisvw1...16v|folenttp:1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l71985 At last... another Z20, you've just doubled the interest in this thread!
Still reading up on K-jet as and when I find references... quite a few about and some of them very, very good. Lucked out and tracked down this Bosch technical booklet in PDF - https://e28goodies.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Bosch-Kjetronic-Fuel-Injection-Manual.pdf Again, got to stress it's still early days and I'm just starting to get an understanding of the basics, mistakes / misunderstandings inevitable! The Volvo air box mentioned above came with it's original air-flow sensor and fuel distributor. Used both them as guinea pigs as I'd no need for either and they've likely of no value because of the condition they were in..., the fuel distributor in particular was seized up inside completely. If you ever do it you can clearly see the similarities and differences when taking them apart - smaller bits and pieces will definitely be interchangable, but I think I'm right in saying the unique profiles of the air funnel and balancing arm are what 'tunes' a particular sensor to a particular car. Got me wondering though if anyone has taken this further and researched / successfully swopped an air-flow sensor as a performance mod., in the same way as someone discovered the Volvo / VW air-boxes interchange? Turns out things like the idle screw (probably the bit that's most likely to be worn out / rounded off), spring arm, plastic holders, screws and a few other fastenings are common to the Volvo and VW so maybe it's true with other marques as well, be interesting to know? The manky left overs from Volvo air-flow sensor after scavenging it for parts... was able to resurrect a dirt cheap, partially dismantled eBay MK1 sensor using some of the cross over bits.
Looking for something and found this article... a few snippets in it I wasn't aware of and helps add to the over all picture. https://www.radforsale.com/articles/articles/z2/
Started this elsewhere, but it petered out through lack of interest... already October and a bit 11th hour to be sticking them up one every month as before, so here you are, all up todate!
Check out Greygoose on YouTube he does a good job explaining in plain language CIS functions by example. I’m still wrapping my head around the interplay of the WUR/CPR after warmup but that’s a detail I will figure out further when I have more time post my rebuild.
