Mk2 1.8 8v to 2l 8v

Discussion in '8-valve' started by nayhorn, Jun 6, 2011.

  1. nayhorn Forum Member

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    Can't believe i forgot them haha, also where is the best place to get the vacum hoses? dealer or factor?
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    dealer hoses are really nice but they cost a fortune! ive not found anywhere that does hose as good though. can get black silicone hose off ebay which does the job and not too in your face
     
  3. nayhorn Forum Member

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    Any chance of a link to the hose?

    and also stripping the new engine down today and noticed this sensor is looking fairly tatty, is it worth replacing? and what is it?

    [​IMG]

    Nathan
     
  4. rich81 Forum Member

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    Knock sensor. Won't run right if it's knackered and will be down on power. new one needs to be torqued to correct torque or won't work right.
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    as above, 1.8-2.0 8v and 16v knock sensors all work (make sure its the long one if the engine has 2, i.e. abf) for the silicone hose just do a search for 3mm vacuum hose or 3mm silicone hose and you'll find it. just make sure what you get is listed for vacuum application
     
  6. nayhorn Forum Member

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    I know it's had been a long time since I last posted on this tread but I've been busy with work and other cars! I've got the new engine in finally, I ended up buying a new engine which I went to see running, then now I've fitted it into my golf, and it won't fire it seems like it too far advanced, it's turning over about half a rotation then locking up. Has anyone got ideas? The only thing I haven't replaced is the wiring in the engine bay could it be some dodges wiring? Any help would be great!

    Thanks

    Nathan
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    unless you touched the timing belt i doubt its moved in between removing from running car and fitting to yours. was the engine the same code as the old one, because there are 2 types of 2.0 8v, and they run completely different engine management systems (well 3 actually, but AGG and ADY are basically the same, 2E runs totally different system)

    main difference is that 2e has no crank sensor and 4 window dizzy, agg/ady have crank sensor and single wire dizzy. agg/ady will work with 2e managment if you swap a 2e dizzy, but 2e wont work on agg/ady management due to the lack of crank sensor.
     
  8. nayhorn Forum Member

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    Is there any way of telling what block it is? I know the distributor has some sort of adaptor ring on? If I take the distributor cap off will the windows be visible?


    Nathan
     
  9. nayhorn Forum Member

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    Bit of an update, it's got a plug at the bottom of the dizzy, is the the crank sensor? Nothing is plugged into it. And when you say windows on the distributor, can you see them if you tags the dizzy cap, rotar arm and the dust cover off? If so there is 4 windows, so am I right in saying that it is a AGG/ADY block?

    Nathan
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    the crank sensor is right at the bottom of the block near the gearbox, agg/ady have them, 2e do not. if you're running it on mk2 or 2e managment then it makes no odds if it has a crank sensor or not, so dont worry about it.

    main thing is check the dizzy! if it has an adaptor then its probably a mk2 dizzy, these have 4 windows and so do 2e dizzy. agg/ady have 1 window and are no good for 2e and mk2 management.

    the plug near the dizzy is probably for the knock sensor, you took a picture of this and circled it above so follow the plug see where it goes. it'll run without the knock sensor, but not well
     
  11. nayhorn Forum Member

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    Bit of another update, I have a massive suspicion that all of my troubles are down to bad earths, because I connected another battery via jump leads to the starter and an earth point and it was spinning over a lot faster and freely. Is there any common earth problems on these?

    Nathan
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    the early mk2 earth went to the upper gearbox bracket, which is a poor location. the later models moved this earth to a stud on the rear engine->gearbox mounting bolt so I'd recommend you upgrade to this if its early. i would also change the battery cables for mk3 while you're there, they're much better. the only thing is you may find the earth doesnt reach the stud behind the battery, so you'll have to make up your own little earth from here to battery -ve
     
  13. nayhorn Forum Member

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    Holy thread revival! Had the engine in the car and it's been running fine, taking the engine out for a bit of a spruce up! Does the engine bay wiring split anywhere in the engine bay?

    Thanks in advance, Nathan.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    it splits just behind the bulkhead at the fusebox :)
     

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