got 10w-40 synta at the moment but someone said i should be using 15w40 cos the engines a bit older (120k) and needs slightly thicker oil? rick
10w 40 should be fine, I dropped the oil on mine yesterday and refilled with Mobil S 10w40 semi synthetic. Like the Mobil,you'll find most quality oils will have VW's approval standard on the container, - Total quartz, Castrol GTX magnatec have it, and dont forget Quantum either! Just dont use any cheap s@*t!
Is that because "cheap s@*t!" breaks down really quickly and coats your engines internals with carbon deposits? In turn, is that why TSC's flush method is a load of cr@p? flush your engine then fill it with oil that will break down and make new flushable deposits ASAP?
i dont think tsc suggests you refill with rubbish oil, its just most of our cars are 2nd hand, so its a good idea to flush out any nastys incase the other owners used cheapy oil
Gary, you've read this forum. You know as well as I do that using anything other than VW Quantum Synta Silver will cause instant catastrophic engine failure.
mine did run a little quieter on 15/40, but mostly i used the silver synta as a bloke sold it round the corner. mine was quite happy on it at 157k miles basic rule, the more "happy shopper" the oil, the sooner you need to change it. The selenia 10/40 i use in the fiat is great for 3000k miles then seems to break down very quickly after that
If you'd ever actually read through the procedure (and it's been posted enough times!), I've never reccomended the long-term use of cheap shit oil. The cheap oil is used as a CARRIER for the highly detergent ATF for a few days, and is then dumped (along with the filth), the oil and filter changed for decent stuff. I don't think you'll find many cheap oils that will break down over a few days and fill your engine with deposits. As far as it being "a load of crap" - have you ever tried it? No? Didn't think so. Here, once again, is a picture of the head from my old 200+k 5351 sport, which was sludged half to death when I got it. I mean, the sludge was built up to half way up the bloody valve springs! That's after a few ATF flushes in quick succession, and the head was never cleaned after being taken off the car before it was scrapped due to rust and accident damage. Is the inside of your head that clean? I doubt it. Edited to add close-up pic. Ignore the dust and shite, the heads been sitting around for a good while now. I should really bin it, but I'm a hoarder..... Edited by: TheSecondComing
It's OK, I've placed the reverse-jinx. Now I've said that you never need to change your oil again. Oh, hang on - saying that might have reverse- reverse-jinxed it. [:^(]
Stick to a decent brand of oil like I said and you wont go wrong. Im going to try the ATF & cheap oil trick on my other car, then oil and filter change with Mobil S again. I can believe it works
10 is the relative viscosity when cold. You want the lowest number whatever the age/mileage of the engine. 40 is the relative viscosity when hot. It's this one that you might want to go higher with if you felt there was someincrease in engine clearances from engine wear
what are the other types of synta you can get other than silver? TSC - what's this special process for flushing your oil? and everyone else, just calm down - and no more GVK jinxing!
using an engine flush on my 16v blocked my oil pick-up with sludge after it not being flushed for most of it's life . I use silver in my 9A and the other half's 185k kr with no probs. Quantom oil is made by castrol Personaly i would only use semi synthetic and not fully as that's a bit thin for the old vw engines.
