MK2 3 door build - turbo'd and 4WD (CAGE PICS ADDED Page 4)

I don't' know how I've missed this tread but I like it. I wish I had the skill to do this, keep up the good work

 

I jason, first of all congrats for the job done until now.
Next year or in 2016 i plan to start a mk2 16vt awd, but my car is a fwd too.
I keep having a question in my head and i hope you can help me.

How hard is getting the rear axle fit properly?
The car already have the holes to the bolts of the awd axle or have to make them?

 

if you use a syncro rear axle then make sure you get the triangular mounts with them and they bolt straight up to the mounting points for the fwd rear beam, you will need to fabricate a rear mount for the diff, you can either put a syncro boot floor in or just use some 50x50 box section across the rear chassis rails then make a bracket up for the mount that way - i chose the latter as its going to be caged so didn't need to have road car comforts like a functional boot etc. The brackets that fix the haldex onto the syncro rear beam are from a company called dutchbuild - just need to make sure its central to the axle - i made up a jig using the old syncro diff.

 

spending never stops - just bought a set of KW v3 coil overs too

 

You were missing one of these mate ...sorted it for you ...great build

 

cheers for that

 

its taken ages to get this replied to, but the rear end is all complete now, as I'm running mk3 vr6 syncro trailing arms that are a little wider than mk2 syncro/rallye ones i use 4motion inner and outer cvs, inners to match the haldex diff obviously and the outers so i could use front vr6 5x100 hubs, then i used the mk2 syncro rear driveshafts, these are a little shorter than the 4motion ones (which is needed) and are the same thickness as the 4motion ones.

The only problem i need to overcome if possible is i would prefer to use the factory ABS/ESP/haldex control (with an aftermarket haldex controller) so i need to ideally find some outer cvs for the rear that have abs rings on the cv, the 4motion ones are on the hub and there isn't room to fit 4motion style abs sensors.

 

I have a question. My setup is quite similar to yours: 02M 6gang gearbox from VR6, modified Syncro rear beam to accept Haldex+VR6 trailing arms+Syncro halfaxles.
Only a propershaft is under question. Which one should I use ? I have a mk2 Syncro propshaft, Passat B4 Vr6 propershaft. Or do I need to get one from mk4/octavia/leon/a3 ?

Thanks in advance

 

you can use whatever you like as at least one part of the prop will need shortening, i used a 4motion mk4 golf (same as the S3) one as i break these cars for a living so will always have them in stock it it breaks, also the syncro ones are harder to get hold of, the front section of the 4motion prop needs shortening, however if your car is a syncro already so has the mount points for the prop it would make sense to use that, but mine has an Audi S3 tunnel so needed to make up new prop mounts anyway

 

Yeah, it has mounts in tunnel as it was already Syncro before I started my build. I will use the same principle as you did when fabricating rear beam to accept Haldex. I mean principle with a jig. As a result rear part of propeller will need no modifications and a midsection too. Just a front part needs modifications (shortened) to be connected to transfer case. Do I understand correctly ?
Just a one thing bothering me. My Syncro's native propshaft has it's bearing ruined completely. Is there any possibility to use something the ones from RWD cars ? Like a BMW, merc. If some slight modifications are needed to fit these, that's acceptable for me.

 

yes just the front section of the propshaft needs shortening, this is the same for using a mk4 4motion 2 piece propshaft or a 3 piece syncro one, couldnt answer whether a propshaft from another manufacturer would fit but to be honest why complicate things, just use a 4motion mk2 one and fabricate 2 new mounts in the tunnel.

If you are set on using a syncro propshaft i have one for sale that i didn't use from my syncro donor car i bought for the parts, pm me if you are interested

 

I had in my mind not a complete propershaft. I have 2 Syncro proper shafts in my garage already. But both has ruined bearings. My question was is it possible to obtain bearings from other makes and use it for syncro proper shaft ? I don't want to buy vag OEM parts, because exactly these bearings for syncro are expensive and won't last long.

 

no idea what fits a syncro shaft regarding the bearings

 

as I'm using mk4/S3 style chassis leg mounted engine mounts i needed to fit a lower 'dogbone' torque mount, how i have my engine mounted would of meant needing to almost cut the subframe in half to graft in the mount from a mk4 golf subframe to use the standard dogbone mount, clearly i wasn't going to do that so i decided to make my own one.

I didn't want to solidly mount it as even though being built as a track car it will still be used on the road so wouldn't of wanted the vibrations you would get with solid mounts.

I had a good on the power flex site to find suitable polybushes to use with the box section i already had, i found the right sized 3mm wall tube to perfectly fit the polybushes, bought some 8mm thick mild steel plate to make the brackets up and the pictures show the final result (well aside from painting over the etch primer I've sprayed on)

The only part of the mk3 vr6 subframe i had to cut was a small section where the lip has the spot welds - so it won't effect the structural integrity of it at all.

 

Hi JasonGTR. Great build.
I wonder if you could possibilly help me out with mine. I'm building a mk1 Golf AWD and will be having a fuel tank made like yours. I could do with 2 of the parts you had machined to fit the standard pump. Could you put me in touch with the guys who made them for you?
Thanks in advance.
Junior

 

i will ask him, he currently has my tank back to weld in the tank vent nut and the filler tube, not sure he will want to do another as he was hoping to find a thick walled ali tube to cut the thread onto but ended up out of luck and have to machine it from a solid billet piece. I will ask him when i collect my tank again.

 

Thanks. Really appreciate it.

 

For anyone thats interested who is building a syncro type car (or owns a rallye) i have just found out where you can buy a thicker rear Anti Roll Bar, std ones are 18mm and nobody makes an aftermarket one, the Passat G60 one is 25mm and is available from classic parts in Germany, but as VW heritage are their UK partner i just ordered it from them and with a 5% discount code is comes in at 110.32 delivered (not bad for a brand new ARB) which is around 20-30 cheaper than the German site too

The part number is 357 511 409C

 

Ill be keeping an eye on this thread as am in a similar boat to yourself.

You don't happen to have the jig you made for the rear beam / the dimensions? I've a Rallye rear beam, but don't have the syncro rear diff.

 

i have a jig mate, measurements can be taken but its best id say to build it with the jig and your brackets, if you can weld you are more than welcome to come over and use the jig to tack the brackets in place, I'm only 45mins from you