Mk2 8v block with abf 16v head stalling problem

RJ, so why is my second nipple on throttle connected to the base of ISV? I better look up your docs again!

 

Hello, I have a mk2 air box on mine for whatever reason so as far as I am aware there is no warm air flap on my airbox?

I think I will replace my ECU vac line and the FPR vac line.

Is it right for a hose to come from under my isv and go to the FPR then?

I don't have anyone available to help with holding the revs to listen to the isv so I will just check the fuse.

If I blank off both of the nipples on the TB then the car will die whenever the revs drop. I have to keep the one that's uncovered right now or I have no chance of it idling at all

 

So really the only problems that you can see is the vac lines or the isv? I changed the isv not long ago but I'll have a look at the fuse as well

 

I've had vcds on it to check before but if only threw up one code which I can't remember so I'll put it back on tonight and have another look.

I'll have a look at the other possibilities as well and get back to you.

Thanks

 

That is a Corrado VR6 airbox. Not that it matters for this problem.

 

That code may the one to send you down the correct path.



You seem to have everything right from the picture, and you have a later Digifant 3.2 manifold.
Usually I have found, if the idle speed switch is not closing or the base throttle stop has moved over time and the ISCV is dead, you would need additional air bypass to keep the engine running. And that port is one way of doing so. If the ldle speed system is working then the ABF ECU is happy to maintain target speed from cold start at 1100rpm to warm idle at 900 or rpm.

The points labelled is typically how most UK ABF conversions are plumbed up. Not highlighted is the FPR vacuum sense and the PCV low load vacuum line.

By the way as the Corrado VR6 airbox has no provisions for a MAT sensor, where did you plug this to?

Please let us know what you code you found.

 

The red plug on the back of the air box is a IAT yes. I changed the plug yesterday as the wires going into it were badly frayed

 

I think I have found the problem. The number 15 fuse has been fried. I'll hopefully get a replacement fuse in there in the next day or two

 

Anybody any idea what this fuse is called? I can't find it anywhere. Is it possible to replace with a spade connector?

 

https://flic.kr/p/BaqcvK

 

The regular two pole fuses work...

 

I tried one anyway, I just wasn't sure and didn't there potentially being a fire. Good news is it works now, I don't even need to give any throttle to start although the idle doesn't stay too steady, it's a little up and down but much better than it dying!

 

Sweet .

have a good listen for air leaks, you should only hear the ISV opening and letting the mix lean up. Any other air leaks should be tended too and let the ECU learn.

Check your grounds near battery, on side of head and under steering column, ensure there is continuity and little resistance.

 

I am going to swap the hose to the ecu and the FPR vac line anyway. Any idea what diameters they are?

I'll give the grounds a good look over but I think the slight roughness could be because I haven't blanked off the nipple on the throttle body.

Thanks to everyone who helped, it is really appreciated

 

I might just go to VW and see if I can get it all. This will sound like a stupid question but would any VW retailer be able to get me parts or would it have to be a VW only shop? I only have Arnold Clark VW fairly near.