Picked the CPS up this morning.....€189!!! It's warm now, but it's going to be nice and dry tomorrow, so i'll do it then... Just as well i picked it up today, it refuses to start now, unless i give it a load of throttle...and then threatens to stall on me constantly....GRR! I will beat it into submission!
basically a lack of CPS will mean you wont get a spark. its worth checking to see if youre getting a spark whilst its cranking but not starting
Checked, and its not sparking right whilst cranking, once started, its erratic until fully warmed up and revved a bit. Once thats done, it's 'fine' but still stalls out more often than it was, which i thought was physically impossible. I've replaced everything else, bar the ECU, so if this doesn't fix it, i'll become rapidly hairless
Had to take it to a damn garage after all, filter and the sump plug were seized and i nearly broke two fingers trying to get them loose. Sensor is swapped out....but still being a b'stard and stalling out/hesitating - i've replaced EVERYTHING. New Coil, new dizzy, new CPS, ECU Relay - WHAT MORE IS THERE?! Coolant Temperature Sensor likely to do that?
Yup that's what happnes when you overtighten the sump plug- It seizes! It can be a ballache of an exercise to free it off too. Can't rememebr the torque setting off the top of my head but I'm sure someone will know. Er coolant sensor is a possilbitliy as is perhaps the ECU and fuel pump relays.
All the Relays are NEW. Excuse the dimness, but, could someone explain why the coolant temperature sensor has such an effect?
the coolant sensor tells the ecu how cold it is. on a cold morning it stuffs more fuel in, but once its hot it leans off stick a multi meter across the sensor and measure the resistance... measure the voltage across the wiring too do you have vagcom?
After reading a couple of posts, i have an idea of where it is, and that it is indeed the problem thats been holding me back! Oh well, at least i have a nice shiny new ignition system When its a little lighter than it is at the moment, i'll go check the resistance. What should the voltage across the wiring be? Don't have VAGCOM, although there were no codes to be read yesterday, they bunged a Bosch KTS650 on it. Although, that brings up another slightly tangential topic - what do i need to do VAGCOM, just a laptop and adapter/software?
i think the wiring should be 10v or 11v either way it should be bang on 10.0v or 11.0v its on the side of the head, the gearbox side. its a white plug, 2 pin for vagcom yuo need a pc and a cable. the cable costs 15. the software is free
Aaaha - located the sensor, its bloody cold out there! Voltage across the terminals is 4.98v and the resistance in this temperature, which is -2*c, is 3400ohms....
looking at the table it seems as if it cld be faulty. unless you have your temperatures wrong. resistance should be nearer 7000 ohms at that temp.
i got my crank sensor out today and the cable was detaching from the back. i was only planning to get it out and change the seal but i needed a new one and it was 1320! gsf had one and closed at 1400. i had to borrow my mums car to get there. then i realised something... the old one only had one rubber seal, the new one had two, so i would have never known and it would have still leaked i put the new one in, in theory its fixed. i then finished off my breather system. the catch tank now goes back to the inlet which should give many benefits, including a crank case vacuum, which should (amongst other things) help keep the oil in as it wont blow past seals
Hi I am a newby on here and it looks very good. Tons of info. I was wondering if anyone could tell me where to find the free Vag Com and the 15 lead mentioned above? Thanks guys. Simon 1996 8v Colour Concept
It's all fixed! Woohoo!! Turned out to be the Coolant Temperature Sensor all along. Once replaced, all was right with the world Now i just have to repair the damage a tractor did to my front end -_-
Glad it's sorted dude - I burned the **** out my fingers when changing mine last year! I forgot that hot coolant is well... hot Meant to add for Matt - Just checked it the other day in WinELSA: ABF with aluminium sump torque is 20NM. So get thr breaker bar out as apparently its 40NM for the sheet metal sump.
