Yea i forgot to mention that i have all the same problem as written here no oil pressure, oil temperature, tacho and mfa. But yesterday it worked for 20minutes and again nothing of that works.
Which one is relay for mfa or do you mean small relay on motometer? And does anyone knows what is this damaged "burned" wire?
Ok guys thanks. Must just be an age thing. Talking of which it’s probably my eyes. Just the same when backlit with lights on. Maybe I’ll try to switch the screen over with one in a spare set of clocks I have. I’ll be sure to let you know when I’ve done it if it works or not. Ta!
if the warning lights dont work either then its more likely to be a wiring fault then. wiggle fuse 16 in its socket, make sure its not blown. the sockety might be loose or dirty. the burnt brown wire is an earth for something, chase it to source. also your grey/white jumper in the front of the fusebox is in the wrong place, it should be in slot 10. this is for your rear fogs
Yea it is a fuse 16, when i wiggled it started to work. Now i will watch how long it will work and know where to dig if it doesnt work again. Big thanks @rubjonny !
Hello, how are you? Wow, interesting reading ... I have been looking for a minimum of information about these on-board computers for some time. I own a VW santana sedan in the typ32B generation, a GLS 2-door 1987 powered by ethanol !! It uses the same instrument panel, the version of that panel in my car is the most complete offered in Brazil, with KM / l meter above the warning LEDs and a gear shift indicator light built into this meter, and below the LEDs a LCD with digital quartz watch in place of the on-board computer. Reading the comments of "Nate S2" in his epic to try to fix the defect (I found it incredible that in the end it was just a transistor the villain!) I was disappointed in my dream of trying to install such a panel on my GLS, as I said that EEPROM this circuit would have a 10-year volatility, I have been looking for a panel for a long time, but even damaged ones end up coming out to me for almost thousands of reais. What fascinates me about them is that it uses a cable speedometer, and that it would be enough to adapt the connection harness, changing the water reservoir and an oil temperature sensor would be enough to work. But in the face of so many annoyances, I wonder if a project with an Arduino processor would not be better to have a more complete LCD, I would only need the blessed VSS rotation sensor for the odometer and speed. I thank the space and congratulate the forum's initiative, a pity that VW only brought golf in the 90s, while the passat arrived here practically together with Europe, serving as a VW luxury car. As an entry-level and compact product, an adapted version of the first generation of the Typ17 body from the 1970s, sold from 1980 to 2014 (the famous "Gol") was offered! This body until 2014 had a longitudinal engine and only had I.E.of fuel in 1989 (first car with I.E. in Brazil) and 16V engine only in 1994, also unprecedented in the national market. Greetings to all enthusiasts, I know that it is very complicated in rich countries to collect vintage cars, especially if you are not a millionaire !! Sorry for the big text and cordial greetings !!
Hi Antenor, thank you for the kind words and insight into VW's from Brazil! Not something that many of us are familiar with I imagine. Are you wanting to swap your panel, that has the KM /l indicator and gear shift indicator, to a panel similar to the one in this thread. With the onboard computer?
Gosh Nate !! You were fast!! Quick facts about the (poor) Brazilian brother of golf; - VWB manufactured between 1980 and 2020 more than 8,300,000 copies, of which 1,500,000 were exported to 69 countries; - for almost 30 years the sedan, station wagon and pickup were also the main products of the automaker (and also have many fanatics for each type); - in yet another innovation, in 2003 it was the first car in brazil to run on two types of fuel (gasoline and ethanol) in any proportion. About the dashboard, seeing in the pictures exactly the part I needed to modify my instrument panel, it revived an old dream of having an original on-board computer ... Wow, I even feel ashamed to come here and say it, but that's what I really wanted!! Thank you and I wish you success in the projects !!
Hi I have just opened my cluster to replace transistor B1 only to find somebody has painted the PCB. Can anybody point out which transistor is B1 please.
Did you have a "DigiDash" sticker, and is the paint red? If so, good luck I don't work on ones that have DigiDash stickers anymore because its so hard to repair them. The conformal coating is like rock so its a acetone, heat, and scraping to get it off. They also sprayed it on and it ends up on the pins and causes a bad connection. I don't have any handy at the moment but I'll try and send some pictures. You might also have dry joints which are normally easy to find and fix, except they're covered up by said conformal coating
Hi Nate, Thanks for the reply. Yes the red conformal coating. One transistor has been replaced in the past, the one next to R5 as in the second picture of your first post.
Hello, is the component identified as a "voltage controller"? Have you thought about using a 78l05 instead? If so, it will be a small, easily paced reversal modification.
Ahh never seen that one done before, try the one below C3 Are you referring to the internal or external voltage regulator? The internal one is similar to a 78L05, and is still available as a new part. The external one is a 100mA 10 volt regulator with a pinout that is opposite to modern devices. VW themselves supply a IRF/TI/NXP device that's rated for 1-amp and mounts backwards.
Hi Nate, Replaced transistor below C3 last night and hooray! my rev counter has come back to life. MFA still has most functions not working but so good to have a working rev counter.
Does anyone know if Nate is still repairing Mfa’s? I’ve got a completely dead screen on a ce2 cluster
Last on site late January. There's a direct address in his signature - enquiries@biltechnik.uk The matching website link is broken, but doesn't necessarily mean the email is too.
His parents live about 20 mins from me. Happy to pop round and ask. He doesn't live with them anymore but was always great in sorting my mk2 and my mates mk1 issues
Hi Nathan and Jonny, Excellent work Sirs! I did electronics for two years before moving into marine engineering so i'm happy to swap components and do it myself. I was going to remove and look for the obvious dry solder joints, broken foil pcb etc. Can I buy the components from yourself? I have read the three pages and I don't see the parts listed. Working: rev counter needle rev counter in secret mfa menu Oil temp Outside air temp Various secret menu stuff including rpm Not working: MPG MPH Distance Cheers, Garry.
