OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by 20v_jimmy, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. vicius_the_one New Member

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    Yes i used 2 relais specific for this Ecu 418 and 419 If i remember well. No related dtc to them. In worst case i would have been able to get engine into high revs, but start should not Be a problem.
     
  2. madmanmart Forum Member

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    Could someone give me a little help,
    I wired a AUQ engine into my mk3 track car. I followed the guide but have a strange problem.

    The coils are live with the ignition off. As soon as I turn the ignition on then the coils die and the car won't start.
    I must of wired something wrong. If I put 12v to the single wire plug next to the ecu relay then it starts and runs fine.

    Any pointers?

    Cheers
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what did you do about the ECU relay?
     
  4. madmanmart Forum Member

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    Which one, the one in the fuse box?

    Left all of them as they were before conversion.

    I'm also getting ECM power relay control open circuit through vdcs.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2016
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    The MK4 relay for the coils and ecu power, you might have moved it to the fusebox or you might have left the mk4 relay box in the engine bay ;)
     
  6. madmanmart Forum Member

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    It's still in the box in the engine bay.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    right, how did you power up the live feed to it?
     
  8. madmanmart Forum Member

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    Heres my connections.
    G1
    2-outside air temp sensor-brown/white.

    3-fuel pump relay earth trigger-yellow /blue----T6 brown connector pin 2-purple/white.

    4-ecu switched live-black---T6-brown connector pin 1 15amp-black or black/purple(and vss pin 1).

    6-fusebox-earth to engine block-t14a pin 9.

    8-live from fuel pump-red/white---T14a pin 6 10amp-yellow/black.

    10-live from ecu relay-black/yellow---T6 brown connector pin 5 10amp-blue/yellow

    11-vehicle speed sensor to pin 2-white/blue.

    12-tacho to clocks signal-green/black---T10 orange connector pin 2-green/red


    G2

    1-oil temp sensor-green/black.

    2-outside air temp-white/red.

    3-coolant temp gauge-yellow/red---T14a connector pin 4-purple

    9-constant live 20amp to ecu-black(need to fit a pin to g2 plug) ---T6 brown connector pin 4-red/green

    10-high oil pressure from switch-yellow.

    11-low oil pressure from switch-blue/black.

    F

    1-starter motor exciter-red/black.

    3-alternator ignition trigger-blue.

    4-vehicle speed sensor pin 3 earth.

    6-reverse switch pin 2-black/red.

    7-reverse switch pin 1-black.

    (single connector)
    W
    1-vehicle speed sensor junction-blue/white---T10 orange pin 6-blue/white.

    (single connector)
    z
    1-injectors switched live-red---T14a pin 5 10amp-red/purple.




    T10W -White connector
    pin 4 - white/red to clutch pedal switch (Clutch pedal switch in car)-using vw brake switch
    other side of terminal to earth


    Diag port;
    Pin 4; earth.
    Pin 7:T10 Orange pin 1 - grey/white.
    pin 16; fused switched live .
    Pin 10; battery live.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2016
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok, you may find G2/9 isnt man enough to power the ecu and coils, its not really meant for that kind of load. I recommend with that you power it from Y spade or the battery with inline 15amp fuse.

    Also T6/5 originally is a fuel pump live, I run that to G1/8 as well as the T14a/6 feed. Once you bin the N80, SAI and post cat lambda you'll have a couple spare wires on the old T6/5 you can re-use for the T14a/6. You could still use G1/10 for T6/5, but note you need a 30 or 32 ecu relay in slot 3 for it to have power.

    have a look at my thread, might help you:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196
     
  10. madmanmart Forum Member

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    Yes sorry the T6/4 is run direct to the rear of the fusebox with a 20A fuse (so I didn't have to fit a pin to the plug).

    I have a 30 relay in slot 3.
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok if its to one of the live Y spades thats fine, keep it like this :)

    Next I would check T6/1 to G1/4, this should only be live with the ignition, maybe theres an issue there? alarm problem perhaps?
     
  12. madmanmart Forum Member

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    I've fixed it! Don't ask me how but I'd somehow managed to get the relays the wrong way round in the black box in the engine bay.

    [​IMG]

    Now running perfectly.
     
  13. Cupra gaz New Member

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    Just ripped all my loom out of my mk3 ibiza cupra ayp and have done all the usual n80. n249, n112, power steering pump sensor sai pump and wiring just capped the power to it. And decided stupidly that I should rip all the other stuff I don't need out of the wiring like fog lights, radio, fag lighter, abs, airbag, central locking, rear wiper, heating and electric windows, interior lights and some others I've left out.
    Could I just remove these from the loom by just cutting them back and removing the wires from the back of the fuse box where possible or am I asking for trouble in doing this?
    The car is solely going to be used on track days but I do plan on on occasionally use it on the road.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if you chase all the wires back from the above and cut at source taping up any bare copper that will be fine. only potential is you may not be able to code out the abs/airbag lights like you can in a mk4 cluster, could 'disable' the bulbs somehow mind ;)
     
  15. Cupra gaz New Member

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    That's great news then and could I also chop the plug off the that goes to the fusebox on top of the battery and then I'd need to lengthen is the live wire for the fans (red/black wire) and also lengthen the other wire that goes from the fuses to the fan box switch thing. I'm moving the battery inside the car.
    Could you tell me could I also lose the alarm siren from the loom? Also the plug that I'm sure is something to do with the sensitivity of the alarm it's a push plug and found on the rear interior lower 1/4 panel drivers side can't think what it's a called.

    Would I need any other tools other than the laser 3932 tool modified like yours rub johny? Also want a decent crimps for doing oem fittings if anyone can guide me?
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what I would do if moving the battery is leave the battery fusebox close to the factory position and just run a fat live to it. you will have to run a fat live to the bay anyway for starter/alternator, so keeping fusebox here will save you needing to run extra copper for the fan. or you could bin the battery fusebox and add a smaller fusebox unit just to supply the lives you have left in the bay.

    the alarm siren can go, and in fact so can all of the other alarm wiring as I guess you wont want it anyway. the button you mention sounds like the interior monitoring disable switch? if so that, and the sensors can all be binned too. you could pull the entire central locking system out too if you wanted, just have the locks manually actuated on the key. would need to add a passenger lock tho if you dont already have one...

    the terminals used mostly in these are junior/power timer and standard timer which both release with the 3932 tool. you will find some micro timer though those need a different terminal release tool as they are a fair bit smaller, if you need a tool or not tho depends if you will be touching any of them when redoing the loom (or care enough to pull pins, rather than just snip wires off)
     
  17. Cupra gaz New Member

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    Thanks again for the reply rub johny I would like to keep the fuse box behind the dash and trying to keep the wires in the bay to a minimum at the same time aswel aswel as modify my loom for a wideband conversion which I bought and is giving me a headache haha, I would rather pull the wires at the fusebox and keep it oem and run new copper up to the fans as its only 1 wire i think from memory red/black wire and keep it all oem ish.
     
  18. phunkymonkey New Member

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    dose anyone have a pin out for a ibiza cupra throttle pedal potentiometer, im trying to use one for a me7.5 conversion but the plug is different to the ecu loom i have
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ECU to early MK4/Polo/Ibiza Cupra remote pedal actuator:
    33-4
    34-6
    35-1
    36-3
    72-5
    73-2
     
  20. paulgtir32sc New Member

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    hi has anyone got any idea why my r32 t14a loom plug hasn't got a pin5 on the harness side ? help would be appreciated think i may of traced this back to why my car won't run and fuel pump not running

    on the spliced side of the t14a i have pin 5 going back to z1 as it should but obviously now this doesn't make it way to where it should and no pin 5 on the other side

    any help would be appreciated

    Paul
     

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