OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by 20v_jimmy, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. korea New Member

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    Thanks,

    My connecter doesn't have this pin, I will add it and try little bit later. Thanks for help!
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    that spark module seems to be the right one based on a quick google search. even if it was wrong I'd still expect sparks just on the wrong cylinders though
     
  3. Seangtispeed New Member

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    Ok thanks, I’m going to check all my wiring there must be a broken wire somewhere..
     
  4. Seangtispeed New Member

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    I have checked for broken wires and there are none, I have continuity through all my wires.
    Today I connected my obd11 reader and it says unable to connect, grey and white wire (OrangeT10a pin 1)is connected to pin 7 of the reader and lives and earths as per guide.
    I have power and earth at the coilpacks, live on all four pins out of the ignition module, checked crank sensor and is ok, I had the ecu immo delete and stage 2 map from Tuning Technics done via post as lockdown restrictions were in place.
    I don’t have a lambda connected yet as the plug was cut off the loom when I got it, but don’t see this being a cause of no spark.
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if you cant scan the ecu and your vagcom setup definitely works then your ecu is either not powering up correctly or the immo/map was flashed incorrectly.

    1st check what scan cable are you using, as not all of them are compatible with vag ecu

    cut lambda wouldnt cause either of these issues
     
  6. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi, been looking at my loom, it's an apy from an S3, something been trying to work out is seems I only have one lambda plug on it, about half way between ecu plug and colour connectors that would originally go inside car.
    Is this right? Was only planning on one lambda, and no cat anyway, but unsure. Trying to work through the loom stripping ready to get a mk2 or 3 to splice into.
    The wires on the plug are :
    1, blue/yellow thick. 2, brown/green thick.
    3, green thin and 4, black thin.
    Sorry to ask, but afraid I didn't unplug the loom from the car and so dont have a real reference.
    And am I right in leaving the other half of loom, ecu to engine, completely as it is, just unplug the solenoids that I dont use.
    Another question, apologies, the oil sensor that is in the sump, does that get used, or just the two (mk2) oil pressure sensors that are now in the filter housing, no temp required for dash.
    On a plus note, got a mk3 4pin water sensor and plug fitted, new starter in now too.
     

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  7. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Have partly answered myself, I've looked at apy flow diagrams, looks like G39 is first lambda, but pin 2 wire is shown as white, others same.
    G130 is post cat, I'll look in ecu plug and see if wiring is there, pins 63,68 & 69.
    But wont be using post cat.
    Would I still use original pre cat sensor or require a different one?
    Getting used to the way wiring diagram are now, quite different to the Lucas style ones I was used to, jeez I'm old.
    Edit, no wires for post cat in the ecu plug, suppose that's why couldn't find the plug on end of loom :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2020
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah apy only has pre-cat narrow band lambda, no post cat :)
     
  9. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers john, was thinking was mad and I may have removed the wiring when stripping, both apy diagrams show two lambda sensors, but I couldn't physically find second plug.
    Happy days.
     
  10. thomas blair New Member

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    Hi folks hoping for a bit of assistance with my 1.8t conversion CE1 fusebox AGU engine. ECU is a bosch 0261206518. 20.06.99 dated.
    Think ive got everything wired up right but the engine wont fire.

    Codes from ECU here. Codes only appear on trying to fire the engine. Not on second key position ignition.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MQPYhrvikBQfEj0EPdjKCUSit5eqRZtZ/view?usp=sharing

    ECU part
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mFYoACgL184mEFO2VEgvny-IWSt-wmW3/view?usp=sharing

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This is how i have my fuel pump wired which i thought was fine but possibly causing issues.


    Other symptom is that i have 6V at each of my injector connectors instead of 12. Im pretty familiar with electronics so assuming ive got an earth fault somwhere but i wondered if the issues I'm seeing on the ECU codes with the ROM error are pointing to the ECU being at fault before i start chasing other issues...

    Any help would be appreciated cheers in advance :-)
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2020
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    fuel relay is fine, how are you checking the injector voltage? if from live pin to chassis/battery earth then you have a vault drop somewhere. if you check across the pins you'll see a pulsed signal from ecu

    rom fault error doesn't always stop it firing, but easy fix for a competent ecu tuner. probably for the best to get it checked anyway, Toyotec/Adlai Phillips on here or Chris Bellman on facebook can sort it.

    check the N75 wiring, this can easily get damaged due to its location, apart from that just a general loom checkover to make sure its all tip top. do you see 12v at your coilpacks, any signs of spark and are the spark plugs wet with fuel?
     
  12. thomas blair New Member

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    Hi John Thanks for your responseZ

    checking between the connector and the chassis ground on the injectors when I’m seeing the 6V

    coil packs have the 13v at them so seem fine same with the plugs. Will check for a spark too.

    the N75 wiring looks fine but will have another better look.
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok so need to chase back your injector power figure out where the drop is for a start, pin 5 on the T10a/14a plug if its still on there. I would feed from N or Z/1 but that only works if using the factory fuel relay socket
     
  14. thomas blair New Member

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    Thanks John, James thexton has been assisting and has sorted my loom. It was a mess but should now be a bit easier to understand what’s going on.
    I’ll get the loom back in at the weekend I hope and go from there. He said I’d need the fusebox fuel pump relay so I’ve got a 167 installed now.
     
  15. 1.8tgti New Member

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    Hi could you provide this again please
     
  16. danielayto New Member

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    Hi all. Need some help. I’ve read all 34 pages but can’t see a definitive answer on my issue. I’m installing an AUQ into an early KR Corrado. I’m struggling with one connection - and that’s T14/8 to G1/10. I don’t have that G1/10 wire at the fusebox. Is it just a case of adding the pin to the G1 plug and then it works? Or is there more to it?

    Or can I connect T14/8 on my AUQ loom to somewhere else? (In the wiring diagram on P3 it says connect to G1/10.)
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  18. Flipp_76 Forum Member

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    Will this work on mk2 ce2 aswell?



     
  19. Djent New Member

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    Hey, everyone! I'm a complete noob in wiring and harness question I had never deal with wires, I'm not an electrician, but I wanna learn that all, cuz I have dream to do a 1.8T swap with my own hands! I've read that thread a lot of times, my brain cooked something, I've got a thought that I understood how to do it, and drew a simplest scheme. I'm just not sure that I understood all right way, maybe this scheme is a complete bullshit, but at least I've tried something... Need your feedback, thanks all :(

    Here is my scheme:
    https://prnt.sc/26bezwq
     
  20. jim poter New Member

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    hi,

    currently swapping my APU loom with wires added to for wideband. having trouble getting it to fire.
    i can communicate with the ecu.

    i assume the me7 ecus have the same pinouts, but in know the looms differ in colours.

    its sitting in a Vw t25 so althoguh the wiring process is the same it's not a straight swap .
    ecu has no immo, i dont run the clocks nor any vvt etc.

    i seem to be gettign fuel but no spark.

    is anyone able to identify which wire require 12 perm and switch and also the fuel pump side.

    thx jim
     

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