One last plea HELP!!

central locking again.
2 weeks to go til my gti is on the road, i really would like everything to work

i have so far to try and fix it:

recconected all the wires the prev owner had cut?!

changed the actuator from some dodgy aftermarket crap to an origional one

changed the vacuum pump (3 times)(i know at least 2 of the 3 pumps i have work)

checked all wires in back of fusebox (though i couldnt see any wires in the fuesbox that went to/came from c/l?!)

had all relays out and put them all back again (it might have worked )

now it has worked once or twice but as soon as i put the under dash tray bit back on it gave up, and i cant figure out why

one last time - ANY ideas, please [:^(]
Edited by: Jolfa

 

how does it work at the moment does the driver door lock. Cos i had this prob where the driver door locks but doesn't engage the central locking. This turned out to be the big overly complictaed switch that operates the motor from the drivers door. If this is broken then it won't tell the pump to work.

Buzz

 

Any ideas? How about getting an electric motor set and spending about an hour fitting it?

 

Ive got this too, if you have a feel behind the door where the lock is there should be a plastice connector bit on the rod the snib is connected too. The plastic connector should be connected to a switch on the lock (pretty obvious fit after youve had a feel around)

If you can lock and unlock the central locking using the snib while the door is open then its this, otherwise its something else!

 

ok i can lock the doors individually but neither operate the central locking...

when it did work, you could hear the pump going and it was fiarly slow to lock everything...

and whats a snib?

 

The one that you can see go up and down when you lock the door! (Inside)

And to be clear by behind the door I meant behind the doorcard

 

My 16v has had the same problem for years and the only way to make it work properly is to turn the key very slowly to either lock or unlock and you hear the pump actuating as you do.
Whenever my wife drives it she can`t open or close it properly as their is a knack to doing it.
I have changed the door actuator and have had everything checked out but it still persists.

 

still not really sure what you're on with

but ive replaced the whole actuator and had all the door lock bit out to get the plastic clip onto everything etc etc

ill check it again tomorow

but even if this was the case shouldnt it still work if you use the passenger side?

 

ill also try slowly turning the key

 

i bought my 90 spec driver assuming it had centeral locking asking the guy i was buying it from who was a prat btw. he solders split pins back togeather that hold my wheel bearing in!

he said it didnt have but a quick look in boot proved it did,

my pump was seized solid and things inside it burnt i took the pipe off the motor and blew or suck, cant remember. (dont get any dodgy ideas) in it and if it dosent have a leak your passenger door, boot and filler cap should lock up only the driver door seems to operate the pump on my driver only it locks the other doors.

if it dosent operate the pump it must be the switch in the door or the wires going to the pump through the car

but if you had a pipe burst the motor would keep trying to close the door or open it. id say look at your wires try to check them see if they broken or something.

maby they broken where they go to the fuse box

when i fit my audi handles i think i will put another vacume operated lock in my drivers door and then put the remote box in boot next to pump.

 

OK, start again...

Does the door lock but not activate the central locking?

If yes then see if the central locking works by opening the door and assuming its the same as my Mk 2 then theres a "snib" thing inside at the top of the door card next to the window (the thing you use if you want to lock the door from the inside). Push that down, if that activates the central locking then the lock and the central locking are not connected.

 

the door locks but does not activate the c/l

snib? door pin? same thing?! i push that... it still doesnt activate it, well it didnt last time i tried.. another one to try tomorow

so you say blowing/sucking down the pipe should to the locks?

the wires that go from the door to the fusebox were all cut (why, i have no idea..) but ive put plugs on thema nd rejoined them, which made it work for a bit, but having put the under dash tray back on it gave up.. again...

and ive fiddled with those wires for hours and still nothing

oh it does pain me so, ill try some of these idea's tommorow

keep them coming

 

Sounds like the locks you can open with the half tennis ball?!?

snib, door pin, whatever

If you cant operate it with the "door pin" then its beyond me...

 

never did get how to use tenis balls...

much easier ways anyway.

 

ive heard (never tried) with some audi possibly VW locks you place the tennis ball over them and compress the ball, the air pressure created by the ball opens the central locking...

 

what a waste of a tenis ball

 

If the remote will lock the drivers door then it must be the same prob i had. When you take the drivers side door caard off. Half way up the door there is a white and blue big plastic thing with a connector on it and a wire connected from lock. When the lock is activated it mkoves this wire up or down and this white/blue thing sends power to the pump in the boot via a relay.

When i took mine off the door, (2 screws) i found that the bit hidden by the rubber had snaped so it was always in one postion and thusly never told the pump that the dorr was being locked or unlucked. The thing is unless you remove it you cannot tell its snapped cos it still went up and down with the lock just the internals were knackered.

If it is this then they are 30 from VW if i had of known before my bro bought one i would have tried to fix the old one.

To get the thing apart requires a very small amount of breaking and about 5 hands.

Buzz

 

Scrap it!

 

The wiring for the central locking is quite simple as it only requires a 12v feed to the drivers door switch to operate if all the other wires are correctly fitted.

The 12volt feed goes to the drivers door switch (check Haynes manual for wire colours)via a fuse in the fuse box. This is a permanent feed not switched by the ignition.

The switch in the drivers door is a changeover switch that connects the input (12v) to one or other of the outputs. The two output wires go directly to the connector on the pump. The outside two pins on the three pin connector IIRC. The centre pin of the pump connector goes to ground, again IIRC.

You need to check for 12v on the two feed wires to the pump and that the central ground wire is shorted to the body and work back from there.

It seems to me that you have either a missing 12v feed to the switch or a bad ground at the pump.

Hope this helps.

 

ok got to my car today, opend the doors and the c/l worked


locked the doors again in excitement, it worked

opend again and it kept locking/unlcoking on its own til i opend the door?!

then it gave up

worked a couple of times again in the half an hour i was there but wont work consistently

ill try the actuator again, swap it...