One last plea HELP!!

obviously a dodgy connection!

 

obviously?!

but where is beyond me...

reconnected all the wires that were cut

checked the multi plug near the fusebox, couldnt see any c/l wires in the fusebox traced the wires back as far as i could reach, checked wires in drivers + passenger door and the boot...

kinda running out of idea's

 

sorry what i meant to say was it must be an electrical fault as opposed to a mechanical one.

 

Unless your car has a retro fit C/L system there are no wires in the boot or passenger doors associated with the C/L, only air pipes. There is no air pipe to the front door.

Read my post - it descibes the system - when I first tried to make my C/L work with an alarm it opened/closed the locks repeatedly. You need to get your car wiring back to completely standard - as described - and then see how it works. An alarm needs to be connected to a motor or actuator that pushes/pulls the door lock button up and down in the drivers door.

The wiring diagram in a Haynes manual is good enough (a rare thing) to diagnose this C/L.

If you want PM me and I will give you a call.

 

no wires?

theres 3 wires from the actuator, 2 of which go to the pump

and yes you're right, there are no vacuum pipes in the drivers door

oh also, blowing and sucking down the pipe makes the cl work, bonus

ill swap the actuator and see how that goes, i have a spare one...

 

Sounds like a either a loose connection around where the loom passes the door hinge, or possibly a small split in the vacuum pipe in the same area. Something is being disturbed when the door is moved.

 

makes sense, as later on everything was lcoked, unlcoked the drivers door, got in, then everything else unlocked

ill recheck my dodgy plugs aswell, maybe even solder them instead!

 

disconnect the actuator, pull the loom back into the cabin,
check the cables for damage or kinks
reconnect the actuator and try operating it manually.

mine has a 3rd party actuator (with a motor for the remote) and this has to be mechanically adjusted where it connects to the lock mechanism. If this adjustment is out it really plays up (intermittant locking and unlocking)

Bax

 

From boot I meant boot-lid or hatch.

There are 3 wires in the drivers door - one from the fuse box and two to the pump - that are connected to a switch in the door lock.

There are 3 wires connected to the pump - 2 from the drivers door switch and 1 to ground - and that is it.

You could replace all the wiring a quickly as spend hours looking for breaks.

Only trying to help but a few minutes with a multimeter should have you well on your way to sorting this. Isolate the fault before you start replacing everything.

 

id love to be compitent enough to replace looms, even simple 2 wire ones

but it took me a week to fit my headunit first time i did it

so the red wire goes to the fusebox?!, i couldnt see where that went, and i couldnbt find it in the fusebox

ill solder all my bullet connected wires, change the actuator, and if it still persists ill change the wires (or give up)

thankyou everyone!

 

Jolfa, I may have a cdl loom lying around , I'll look in the garage over the weekend.

If there was a split in the piping then the pump would take longer to cycle, I have the VW cdl test procedure in my bently manual, I'll try and post it up tommorow
Edited by: Jetta

 

IT WORKS!!!!!!!

i changed the actuator, and taped all the wires rather than use plugs

AND IT ALL F*CKING WORKS

im so happy i could cry... really.

 

now please see

this thread