Hi there I too have running probs with my car and pretty sure it's the carb, but find it hard to work out exactly what to check and how to do it. Is there a step by step guide aimed at dummies? Something i could print and keep to hand rather than get pc pc cover in oily finger prints?
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124945 The above link is for all the components (Pierburg 2e2), tips and tricks on fixing your carb (if it is that causing the problem). What I do is copy and paste info from that link, and from my own thread thanks to tips from EZ PETE, and print it off on sheets so i can take to my car, and write stuff down like voltages and Ohm figures. Saves my laptop from oily fingers for sure Ive literally drank loads of cups of coffee and ate millions of biscuits and patiently took time out to read each individual post and "how-to" to get where I am now. And if youve seen my thread on how bodged my carb was, its now really coming on! My carb thread... http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157722 Wish I could be more helpful, but these carbs arnt the best to explain over the net and a forum...let alone a dummies guide lol
I keep meaning to try to write something explaining how the autochoke stuff all works, and how the normal idle is governed... Is yours manual gearbox? If so the back end of your 3/4 point unit will look like the one in this image of Si's: The idle speed adjustment is the 13mm 'nut' in the bottom right hand corner of the picture, on the back end of the 3/4 point unit. Winding it in, clockwise, as we look at it in this pic, should raise the idle revs IIRC. (You won't notice a difference during waxstat-controlled warm-up, but you should after say max. ten minutes running from cold). It's reachable by feel with the carb in situ. There could be lots of other things causing your trouble, especially air leaks etc. but that's the easiest thing to try for starters. Someone may well have (misguidedly) wound that out to try to compensate for a failing waxstat. If that doesn't get you going my best guess is that you have an air leak into the manifold via either the carb mounting flange, or the short flexi-hose that links the manifold to the brake servo system, or any of the small vac hoses coming off the carb. Visual inspection with mirror and torch may show something. If you can take a few photos of the carb from various angles, that'll help further diagnostics.
Hi there, my ones an auto g/box. If i run it from cold it's not too bad but once hot (needle midpoint) it can struggle with tickover (but not always). just seems tempramental?? If it's on a run ie 30 mph or motorway or other it runs ok and reasonably smooth. I'm prepared to take the carb off and start dabbling but really want to systematically do the lot. The other day it wouldn't tickover at all struggled home and ended up putting a screwdriver in the hole on top of filter box turned 360 degrees clockwise and it improved the reliability (more stable at all temps), Only did this because it's the only adjuster i could see. (the cap was replaced on filter box). I'll take a look at the flange thingy later in an hour or so, and give the idel adjuster a tweak then undo the carb screw thru the hole 360 again.
ok, just had a good look around, found several vacuum hoses that didn't appear that tight a fit, so cut 1/8" off end and refitted slightly tighter. I noticed on the side facing froward and towards offside there was a single wire leading to what seems like a condensor type thing underneath, the wire looked a bit frayed but was connected as far as i could see?? I adjusted the 13mm idle screw on the back of the 3/4 point unit, i'm guessing this was supposed to move the little piston in and out on the front side, nothing moved and idle didn't change. I'm thinking as this thing sticks out about 12mm at the front and never moves it either needs freeing up somehow or it's plain knackered. With the enige running (just about) i managed to get under the bonnet quick and hold the revs, finally it managed to tick over and i also noticed a slight clattery sound form timing belt end so i'm gonna get a new belt and tensioner tomorrow. is GSF best or dealer?
I belive the screw you speak of is the CO adjustment screw and this will effect your emmisions...(see top centre of pic)
yep it sure was, just not sure what's next on that 3-4 point thing??? is it repairable or replacement?
Yours will be a 4-point unit as you have an automatic gearbox, with 3 vacuum connections? Only one of these, the lowest one I think, actually gets sucked on by the carb. The other two are either blocked off, or open to atmosphere*, accoding to the position of a couple of valves. So to test it, take off all three vac hoses, put a long hose on the lowest connection and apply a vac pump, or a good hard human suck You should see the pushrod withdraw a bit from its fully extended position. Then block each of the other vac nipples one, then both, and you should see the pushrod find the other two of its four 'points', one of which will be fully withdrawn (both nipples blocked). If it does all this, and holds vacuum for a reasonable time, your problem is elsewhere. If it fails this test you may want to tour a couple of scrapyards looking for a better one, as they are silly money for new replacements I believe. There are a couple of o-rings on each of the adjusters that could be replaced, but I think the main diaphragm splitting is the more likely failure mechanism. A hint of grease on the pushrod may be worth trying if it looks like friction may be the problem because of corrosion etc. Best of luck. Edit: I have a few 3-point units, some working some not, but no 4-point units I'm afraid. *Not directly to atmosphere, but to a nipple right at the top of the secondary barrel, which is basically 'filtered atmosphere'.
Just dont take note of the Vac hoses...as they are totally wrong (its how i bought the car...butchers)
Have a look here...post number 4 http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124945 Thats a much better image of how the vac pipes go
haynes do a good pieburg manual (covers loads inc 2E2) I have one somewhere. You can have it for a few quid +postage if you want (and arent in a big hurry!). Trevor
I had a little fiddle with me carb earlier Check the mounting flange, looked to be good. Tried levering the 3-4point plunger but it wouldn't budge, so i squirted wd40 on it then gripped it wth mole grips and gently twisted it about 2 degrees, then, as if by magic the shopkeeper appeared, erm no the the plunger started coming out to the desired 14mm, AMAZING! i then rubbed the newly exposed part of the plunger with wire wool and gave it a further squirt then was able to push it in and out. Started the engine and it now goes out to 14mm when engine off and retracts about 5 mm when engine on, so slight improvement. I then check the vacuum hoses, you know the small bore hard plastic ones, the one to the green ball thing was clooged so cleared that our with a bicycle brake wire, then proceedded to do the same to all the other small bore pipes. I tried adjusting idel with the bolt on back of 3-4 point unit, but coudlnt detect any difference??? Running a bit better but not perfect yet. Went for a spin, i do have a little pinking when i put my foot down, which way shall i turn dizzy? I'll try the car again tomorrow, had enough and wanted a cup o tea
Sounds like good progress Jon . What I haven't figured out yet is whether you have a 3-point unit, or a 4-point unit. I thought all the automatic transmission versions have the 4-point, with two idle adjustments and 3 vac connections, like the one in the diagram of post #6. But I'm not sure on that; does yours look like the one in the picture of post #3 (only one adjuster, only two vac connections)? You may need a mirror to see the adjusters, but on the 4-point version there's the 'normal' adjustment for idling in Neutral, and then a second adjustment (for the fourth 'point') which can only be set up properly on rollers, I believe, as it's an increased throttle opening for when D is selected on the autobox. I think the 'normal' one is the one directly in line with the pushrod, the other one is offset. Not sure which way the dizzy needs to go, maybe mark it where it is now, then try it a bit either way? Sounds like you earned that cup of tea!
there are 3 hoses, i notice the big bolt in the middle but haven't found another one yet but i haven't got a mirror to hand that i can think of either. But as soon as i can i will let you know. In the haynes manual it says, get someone to sit in the car, put it in drive with brake on, turn on heaters, lights and anything else then set the drive idle (worst case scenario).
i had a brainwave, got no mirror, use a camera and so i did and a good job too, spot the problems.... or potential probs...
Good thinking with the camera, and yes, looks like a trip to VW for some vac hose may be a good plan. I used to have the part number in my sig. but they should be able to tell you. 3.25mm ID, and fabric covered, last time I got some. I wouldn't recommend GSF stuff, it's not as nice. So it is a 3-point unit with just two vac nipples by the look of those pics; is yours a 1.6? Maybe it's just the 1.8 autos that have the 4-point?
