(PLEASE HELP) 1996 Golf GTI VR6 AAA, crank, no start.

The other links are bad, this one works fine.......results on the cVR6 compression test.
Sorry the link was bad.........

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

 

Hey, almost

When I did the compression test I removed all the plugs, disabled the coil pack and removed the fuel relay, just a quick note.

So I bought the starting fluid, and removed the FPR, sprayed the fluid in the throttle or air intake and tried........I started right up for a short time. So it seems I have a fuel problem. The pump is new, I have fuel at the front rail and I used my Power Probe 4 in Injector mode and I have Injector signal. I am aware that I need 51-58 psi but I do not have a gauge to confirm.........going to order one in a few days. If the pressure is not met I will return the new pump for another one. If the psi is within spec then what next.......(Regulator)? So I will focus in on this area, It did start with no hesitation so we are getting somewhere now. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS?

PS: GOING TO GET NEW GAS, 1 FULL TANK AND REPLACE THE GAS FILTER.

 

I did not get my fuel pressure gauge yet, I will update this tread as soon as I perform the fuel pressure test.

 

Hi Rudy_nyc1 did you ever get to the bottom of your issue, I am currently in the same position as you with a OBD1 VR that has a good spark, fuel at the rail, new crank position sensor, Blue temp sensor (Genuine) and a new ECU relay but it just cranks and cranks with no start other than the 1 time the other night. Car was running perfectly until a few weeks ago when it developed an issue where it was difficult to start when up to temperature then just completely stopped starting altogether.

Rubjonny if you read this I know your the guru of VW wiring and part numbers, do you know the part number of the correct ECU relay for a '94 M reg VR as the one I removed was a 5 pin relay (new one is the same) but someone has said it may be the wrong relay as the number 109 relay only has 3 sometimes 4 pins.

Nick

 

Wow RJ didn't realise that was you that had commented on my Facebook post. Be interesting to find out if Rudy_nyc1 sorted his issue.

 

Hi all new here, sorry to spark of an old thread from a time when we could go places and meet people lol. This weekend i pulled a vr engine and loom from a 95 obd1 golf (running when pulled) and put it into my 97 vento obd2 then to realise the golf was obd1 so i don't have the yellow plug for the injector power but I've used the vr fuse box which has the 109 relay and ive jumped 30 to 30b on the back of the fuse block but it just cranks and cranks and no start, it is getting spark and will fire up on brake clean but the fuel pump isnt running and the injectors aren't pulsing, I've also put a jump in place of the fuel pump relay and the pump will run but still won't fire as the injectors still aren't opening, i can't imagine it's anything other than something wiring related at the fuse box as the engine was running perfect in the golf friday night before it was pulled so all sensor and ecu should be fine and all grounds in the engine bay were cleaned. I'm all out of ideas and I've searched everywhere and can only find info on people going from obd1 to obd2 and my brain is totally discombobulated at this stage so im hoping someone can shed some light on my issues.
Thanks.

Edit: also the relays do click when the ignition is turned on but no noise from the pump

 

Yea ecu was swapped too, i can here the relay operate when i turn the key so presumed it would be working ok but i will try the jump and report back.
Thanks.

 

Yea i done some research before the swap so had a fair idea of what i needed to swap but obviously not enough lol, yes i am getting voltage to the injectors and also the crank sensor is in the correct plug, Ok so i finally got another free evening to delve deeper into the wiring with a test light and multimeter and i probed all the wires at the ecu and here's what I've narrowed it down to, pin 23 and pin 9 are grounded which according to what ive seen and read should be positives correct? When i connected the test light from the positive of the battery to pin 23 (with the ignition on) the fuel pump started to run and stopped when i pulled it out so with that i had a look around at all of the plugs and grounds again to make sure everything was in the right place and everything checked out ok unless I've missed one somewhere, i was able to get the lend of a vag com and i was able to connect to all the modules except engine UNTIL i connected the test light back to pin 23 and hurray i was in! I got 3 faults 1 was for the 02 sensor as it wasn't connected when i first attempted to start it, the second was for imobiliser which i presume was because of when i switched everything over and I got the fault code 00513- engine speed sensor(G28) 03-00- no signal, the other 2 codes cleared and didnt return but the crank sensor fault returns when you attempt to start it, im not sure where to go from here the only thing that i haven't swapped over yet is the ignition barrel itself is there a possibility there is a difference in the internals between the 1.4 and vr6?

 

So it could be an immobiliser fault? im goin to swap the ignition barrell tonight incase theres somethin different in it that might be causin issues

 

I had to read it a couple of times but ye it makes sense , the part number is 021 906 258 CH, so i did as you said and grounded pin 9 and i have power at pin 23 and i also have power at pin 38 and pin 54

 

It's ALIVE!! so i connected the test light to pin 23 and i plug in vag com again and tried to see if i could make the injectors or any other valves, relays ect work using the functions test, which i couldn't so out of curiousity i checked in actual values and clicked on battery voltage and saw i was only getting 4.67v so i put a power to pin 23 in place of the test light and i heard the fuel pump relay prime and turn of after a few seconds which it wasn't doing before it would just run continuously and sounded somewhat week, so i turned the key not expecting much and she roared into life (literally there's no exhaust on it at the minute), happy days, now I'm just wondering can i just splice into pin 23 where it runs into the fuse box and run a jumper wire from one of the 30 or 30b spots and call it good or would that cause issues long term or damage any other wiring?

 

Ok so ive found and solved the source of the problem, it turned out to be corrosion on g1/10 on the back of the fusebox so i cleaned the pin and swapped out the fuse box for the 1.4 just swapped over the extra relays and it's 100%, thank you very much rubjonny for sharing the knowledge I'm sure I'll be on here again in the near future for more issues