Super handy they are too I planned not to add the wiring for the flapper and get it coded out later if it can be I take it other than the engine light I won't run into any problems
Cheers lads - I have ELSA so no worries there. I left it tied high but just tucked it into the loom prior to rewrapping it. Not sure if I would want to fit a flapper in future so handy to have the option but I guess Eddie could easy code it out. I never tried it Justin so not sure if it throws a code or not.
I had a conversation with Vince at Stealth on this, he advised added the resistors and a relay for SAI to trick the ecu into thinking the equipment was still there. Apparently the adaptions won't work with SAI & evaps connected.
seems it depends on who you ask, some say you can code everything out in the ecu directly so no need to have any of the gear connected, and some say they want the relay and valves etc left in but disconnected. some say resistors are ok! So in short I would say ask whoever will actually be doing the map work on your ecu what they want you to do with it when addign resistors they need to go between the 2 pins on the plug to the device you are deleting. they can go anywhere along this run of loom so you could snip it right back to near the ecu plug and tuck your resistors in the scuttle out of sight. or put them in the end of the plug and tape it all up. whatever! for the SAI relay just leave it in the box along with the ecu relay and make a bracket to hook it up somewhere neat. take out the SAI pump wiring though, definitely no need for that.
Most who add resistors as false electrical load of a consumer, do not have the skills or access to calibration know to delete the component properly.
OK I think you put one between J220/44 (brown/yellow, Secondary Air Inlet Valve) and G1/08 (blue/yellow, Heated Oxygen Sensor Power) and another one between the J220/46 (grey/brown, Secondar Air Pump Relay) and the same G1/08 (blue/yellow, Heated Oxygen Sensor Power). This way I can ditch the sai relay, valve, pump, and other wiring yet the ECU will see the load that it needs. I have also read contradictory info about these resistors. Some say use 10w 330ohm but others say use .5w 330ohm because there is only .2w traveling through the small signal wires. Thoughts?
