THE 2 litre 8v thread

Discussion in '8-valve' started by JamesB, May 13, 2006.

  1. alen_sa New Member

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  2. SoontobeGTI New Member

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    Which are the best HT leads for the AGG engine?

    Looking to upgrade my HT leads on my 2.0 8v wanting to know where to get them and what are the best leads to purchase?
     
  3. pacifica112

    pacifica112 Forum Member

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    I am currently re building my cylinder head of a mk2 8v so i can fit it to a 2 litre bottom end. I want to do all the work while its all apart. what i am wondering is is it worth fitting bigger valves. i am going to fit a different cam and port and polish it. what else could i do?
    neil
     
  4. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    definatley worth having the bigger valves
     
  5. MillzeeGTI New Member

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    has anyone done some back to back test to find out why the mk2 head seems to flow better than the mk3.

    i am in the middle of putting a 2.0 in and spent a bit of time measuring the heads from the 1.8 and 2.0 and the 2.0 has got bigger ports (not just the height of the inlets due to the injectors being in the manifold but width as well) and is certainly a nicer head less burs etc. One of my thoughts is the inlet manifold looks less restrictive on the 1.8 so it might flow better overall.

    in an ideal world not that it is (as the head and manifold don't match) i would have said the 1.8 inlet and cam and the 2.0 head would give the best mix.
     
  6. mk28vICED Forum Member

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    do it, then lets race.
     
  7. Pete Mk1 New Member

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    2.0l With 1.8 Head

    Hi there fellow dubbers in England. Am busy modding my Mk1 Golf in Melbourne Australia and was wondering has any one put together 1.8GTI head on 2.0L bottom end.
    If so what if any problems could be encountered and/or what results would you expect?
    What are the advantages of using this type of head/block combo?
    Any help greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Pete Mk1
     
  8. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Bigger ports dont always mean better flow, it's what happens around the throat, valve and seat area thats important. Also, the inlet manifold for the car needs to be used to keep things simple and to match the head used.
     
  9. fried egg

    fried egg Forum Member

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    I received my tsr dizzy adapter ring yesterday for my 2.0 agg that i'm putting together for my cabby. I made the mistake of rushing out to the garage to try it, it was a bit tight so i tapped it in with a nylon hammer stood back to admire it then thought i hope the gear off the bottom of the dizzy fits through that hole. Well it don't looks like you put the ring round the mk1 dizzy then fit the mk3 cog to the bottom before putting it in the block. The thing that really p****d me off was the ring wouldn't come back out the block. i tried lashing up home made pullers and alsorts in the end it was sump off, oil pump off and a big punch to get it out a good 2hrs after i started. Thought i'd put this on for anybody as dumb as me!
     
  10. stuflock New Member

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    hey everyone,

    i wonder if you guys can help me with loads of advice for puting a 2.0l 8v agg motor into a polo. is a 'p' plate polo a mk3 model ? and will the 2litre fit in it ok ?

    thanks if you can help me

    stu
     
  11. Pete Mk1 New Member

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    2.0L 8v engine fkd?????

    Please can anyone help?? Message of request for answers from Australia.

    Can anyone help, Recently finished putting together my engine for my MK 1 Tarmac Rally Car. I should say my so called mechanic did. Basically what i had put together was a 2.0L bottom end from a 95 Mk3 combined with 1.8L head.

    This head is a ported GTI head with Techtonics cam,twin 45 Webbers etc.
    The 2.0L bottom end had new mains,hone and new rings (previously had about 110,000km's)

    After the engine was tuned on dyno i finally went to pick up my car which seemed to be running well,sounding fantastic and on first impressions of driving it home, plenty of power and oodles of torque.

    My mechanic said that it was making 101hp at the wheels which in my book was fairly good for a light weight MK1.

    Any way took car home and put in garage.

    2 days later decided to take the golf out for its first rea run prior to competition.
    Low and behold i only managed 60km before losing oil pressure. F%%&*
    I got the mechanic to pick up car and diagnose.

    When i arrived at work shop next day the engine was out and being disected!!
    It turned out that the crankshaft had been ground away on the journals, not the bearing shells as you would expect, and whats more there was a piece of metal stuck on oil pump relief valve!!
    End result the engine is totally stuffed.

    Cost wise it is too expensive too rebuild so maybe start with another engine altogether.
    Don't reailly know the answer so if anyone can help with any info on this mod i would really really appreciate help with my dilemma.

    How this or why this happened is a mystery to me and apparently to my mechanic also.
    Has anyone experienced malfunctions or any problems in fitting 1.8 head to 2.0L bottom end???

    If so what and why???

    Does anyone know if there are inherent problems in carrying out this modification???
    Are there any oil pressure,flow problems associated with the fitting of 1.8 head on to 2.0l
    bottom??
    Please if anyone can help it will be majorly appreciated.
    Thanks
    and Happy New Year from OZ
    Pete Mk1
     
  12. mk28vICED Forum Member

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    hmmm, lots of people have done this conversion fine. albeit not into a mk1. and not using carbs most the time.
    a '95 mk3.. which block is that 2E or AGG?
    they are built strong, maybe you shouldnt have serviced the block. and concentrated on the cylinder head. what cylinder head is it?
    101 at the wheels sounds slightly low, but not bad.
     
  13. Pete Mk1 New Member

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    re engine dramas

    Thanks for the reply mk28vICED, sorry i haven't replied until now as i have had dispute with the mechanic and consequently picked up my engine and all the bits yesterday. So now all my stuff is spead around the garage, started cleaning and organising parts today as to tell where to start.
    The 2.0l block i used is marked as ADY prefix which from what i can find is from an '95 model mk3 golf here is Australia.
    The head is a 1.8 GTI head 40/33 valves, ported with techtonics cam.part no. 109.069 with 306' degree duration.
    i'm tending to think more and more that my engine was probably contaminated during assembly. House keeping duties have a bit to be desired in this particular workshop.
    Should may be have taken that as a sign?
    Never believe you can build decent engines in dirty dusty conditions?
    Anyway have aquired a AGG block now with about 100k on it.
    Have stripped it to examine, bores still have hone marks and pistons look good.
    Mains have some wear, as it looks like the oil was not changed as often as it should.
    So a new rebuild starts with out my useless mechanic.
     
  14. mk28vICED Forum Member

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    ok mate well we're here if you need help!
    a 306 degree camshaft? that is extreme!
    good luck with the rebuild.
     
  15. Pete Mk1 New Member

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    2.0L with 1.8 head

    Does anyone know if there will be any changes to compression ratio when a 1.8 head is fitted to a 2.0L bottom end?
    i don't actually have a 2.0L head to do any measurement comparisons with.

    I have stripped my 2.0L block in readiness to clean, modify, and rebuild, but upon reading my Haynes manual i noticed that it lists the following compression ratios:

    1.8L engine 9.0:1
    2.0L engine 9.6:1

    With the 2.0L engine being slightly higher, the last thing i want to do is actually lower the compression and performance.

    Do any of you have knowledge of what differences may exist?

    I am thinking that there could be a few possibilities;

    1/ Deck height between the two blocks, being the level of the block surface compared to the height the piston actually reaches in the top of the cylinder?

    2/ A difference in piston shape or size of recess in the top of the dished piston?

    3/ The combustion area recess in the cylinder head is different between 1.8 and 2.0?

    Any info much appreciated
    Pete Mk1 in OZ
     
  16. mr hillclimber Club GTI Supporter and Sponsor

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    Hi Pete...

    I'd suspect you have different variations of both engines down under.

    As an example, the UK 1.8 GTi is 10.0:1, and the Audi 80 2ltr is 10.5:1.

    I've just stripped a couple of UK spec engines...

    1984 Mk2 GTi, 1.8 EV engine...

    Piston dish... 10cc
    "D" shape intruder on the piston crown is 0.022 (22 thou) above the block deck.
    The remainder of the piston crown is 0.023 (23 thou) down from the block deck.
    Standard type head gasket "compressed" thickness is 0.056 (56 thou)

    1991 (approx) Audi 80/100 2.0 ABK engine...

    Piston dish... 12cc
    "D" shape crown intruder is 0.025 (25 thou) proud of the block deck.
    The remainder of the crown is 0.007 (7 thou) from the deck face.

    Standard chamber size of the 1.8 "DX" head is 30cc.

    Obviously the bore size of both engines are different (81mm for the 1.8, 82.5 for the 2ltr) and so will also effect the C.R

    We've just fitted a modified 1.8 DX head to the ABK block. The block deck & pistons were unmodified, I opened the chamber slightly around the inlet valve which gave a chamber size of 31cc. After skimming 0.015 (15 thou) from the head face, I measured the chamber @ 29.5cc.

    The above combination has given a "static" C.R of 11.25:1.

    I would suspect both of the engines you mention above have bigger bowl's in the pistons the achieve the lower c.r rather than any/much difference in the head chamber size.

    The only real way to be sure is to measure the CC in both the pistons & head you plan to use so the compression is'nt too low or high.

    Hope the above helps.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2008
  17. Pete Mk1 New Member

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    2.0L + 1.8 head

    Thanks for the reply and info hillclimber, info much appreciated. Next step will definitely have to be CR measurement. From there i can work out what to do. ideally i would like to achieve an increase in compression ratio as i plan to run the car on 100 octane fuel which we can now get at the pump in australia. I hope about 10.5:1 will be adequate.
    Pete Mk1
     
  18. dandubgti New Member

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    Im building a mk2 2.0 engine at the moment, is it best to blank the crank case breather off or to plumb it in to the breather pipe above?

    Will it make a difference either way?

    Cheers

    Dan
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2008
  19. gti-8v Forum Member

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    Top 2L conversion tips!!

    These aspects need to be added, although not tehnical in nature:

    Dont have any "misunderstandings" between you and your other half (girlfriend/ fiance/wife) before attempting a conversion. Being angry or upset in anyway does not assist your conversion!

    Dont consume too much green tea before attempting extended periods of work on the car as being a diuretic, you will spend as much time in your bathroom as on your car.

    Do not undertake any new form of exercise leading up to your conversion, this could lead to undesired muscle cramps at inconvienent times working on your conversion.

    Any additional performance enhancements on your standard engine prior to the conversion need to be evaluated (Branches etc) - otherwise you may encounter extended delays on a fairly straight forward bottom end swop!
     
  20. vee_dubb_boy New Member

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    What Clutch should I use guys?? Std 8v item put up with the xtra grunt will it??
     

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