Thinking About A Vr6

Insurance is cheap until you tell em about modifications you have done. I pay 580 FC all mods declared with a fault claim as well

 

buy one and love it. spend your money on it and never regret it. even if you end up with a lemon, you can say you had one. You know like when your dads says something like, "oh yeah, i had one of those quattros,~" with a smile on his face.

I would have one but the wife loves the mk 4 so im knackered,and cant afford an r32

 

I miss my Vr6 - Buy one even if just for the noise at full beans !!!!!


15.5sec 1/4 and still got whooped !

 

im in the procces of try ing to sell my 8v mk3 so as soon as that has gone ill be lookin the only trouble is i have just found a mk1 golf in need of help lol apparently it has had all the body work done ie rust all tnew archs ect but needs finishing respray mot ect but it has sat out side for the last 2 half years but still got to be worth a look for a 1er any way we eill see wat happens tommrow on the car tax issue and go from there

 

collie i feel for u m8 as im getting an ear acke from selling mine the mrs loves it poor cow lol

Yipeeeeee just got a qoute from my insurance company 250 a year third p f t not bad a????

 

So true

Well seen as how the car you were racing could seriously waste Lambos and Porsches, I'm not in the slightest bit suprised

 

I know, he recorded the quickest time of the weekend against me. 0-60=2.75 and a 1/4=10.85 !!!!!!

Awesome as he pulled away from me !

 

mad monkey just has a bad driving record lol

 

write last question please help could some 1 do a buyers guide for a vr6 ie wat to look out for ect ect how much u would be looking at to buy and what u think about soz to keep rambling about them but i seriously want 1 and be fore i go on a mad saving buzz and slog my guts i want to find out as much as poss hope u can help thanks

lee

 

** VR6 Buyers Guide **

Well I've had my VR6 for over 1 1/2 years now and love it, even with its little foibles !

Here are is a little checklist for getting a VR :
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot] Rule No.1 = Make sure the engine is 'cold' when you go to see the car !!!! If its warm they most probably have something to hide !!!!![/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]Bodywork rust + pitting on doors look for filler + roof should be smooth + no buckles + motion on shutting doors. Check wheel arches for scuffs (been rolled ?)[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Handbrake + Check Exhaust + Alloys + Windscreen + Electric Windows + Air Con (should be instant !) + check for rust in boot under spare wheel, Check for staining on roof inside[/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]The main thing is the auxiliary water pump failing. They nearly always do and the engine will run too hot as a result. Look for water leak marks on the pump. Look for oil leaks onto the engine too.[/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]Check the coolant expansion tank, the fluid inside should be clean with no 'tidemarks' on the sides of the tank. Also look on the top of the transmission for leaks ![/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Take the oil filler cap off and if you see any white/emulsified deposits or similar marks on the inside of the cap or in the oily bits you can see then walk away, the engine has been cooked. The oily bits should look clean with no sticky black lumps just a film of oil on them. VR6 engines use oil (often 1litre per 5000 miles and that's normal) and because of that some owners let them run dry hence the sticky lumps, and that can kill the hydraulic valve lifters.[/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot] [FONT=&quot]Make sure the engine is cold and start it. There should be no smoke (although steam is ok until the engine is warm) from the exhaust (blue smoke = knackered oil seals, white = leaking water seals), you do get some soot build up around the exhaust over time but not much. It'll rattle until it warms up.[/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]The synchromesh can wear making selecting 2nd gear hard. If it baulks selecting 2nd then that could be pricey. Make sure there's no play in the clutch ![/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot] [FONT=&quot]They were dead easy to clock, check the wear and tear on the pedal rubbers and the drivers seat right hand cushion side bolster is a dead giveaway. If it's crushed or collapsed the guy is either 20 stone or it's been clocked.[/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Go over the service history with a fine toothcomb, see if he has the actual bills to match the service book stamps.[/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Bounce the car by pushing down over each wheel, it should rebound 1.5 times no more otherwise the shocks are worn. Listen for clonks from the suspension, the top mounts can wear. Take a torch and look at all 4 shocks and check for hydraulic leaks to see if they are broken ![/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot] [FONT=&quot]Do an emergency stop, if the front dives a lot the shocks are worn, if it pulls to one side then the brakes may not be working properly. Check how worn the brake disks are (look for a lip on the outside edge, they can warp when they get thin and the brake pedal will vibrate when you push on it). The ABS is brutal, it should feel like you have your foot on a pneumatic drill when it kicks in. Check that the tyres are evenly worn across the tread. There should be little play in the steering around the centre position, if there is the rack is worn. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]! Drive it above 50mph and turn the steering wheel left-right quickly to check that there is no excessive wear in the rack, if there is it'll cost you 350-400 at least to repair ![/FONT][/FONT][FONT=&quot] It's normal for the hydraulic pump on the power steering to whine at full lock.[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Check all body panels for alignment and spacing ![/FONT][/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Do an HPI check on it to see if it's ever been crashed and repaired. - If in doubt leave it.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hope this helps !!!! Most things can be fixed but if the engine seems funny then don't bother ![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

 

Sorry about the font ... I copied it from a Word Document !

 

thanks very much fella seems u covered just about every think i will print that out and take it with me wen i go to look as i will not remeber all that lol most of it is sort of general things but as with all cars it worth askin some 1 thats has 1
thanks AGAIN

 

Yeah, hope it helps, just remember that its your money and if you're not happy with anything .... walk away from it .... even if you do like it ! Patience is the key, if you can wait you can normally find a nice low milage VR6 with full service history. If you can get one with about 60-80k on the clock then that is perfect !

Make sure that the 60k service has been carried out properly and check when the last time the brake fluid was changed .... so do try an Emergency Stop .... higly recommended !

Good luck !

 

cheers again wat sort of money would u exspect to pay for a gooden !!!!!!

 

I'm not too sure ... 1.5 years ago I paid 4000 for mine but it had 60k miles on the clock and full VW service history. Since then prices have dropped somewhat. I guess the going rate is about 2500 at the moment but that would be with average miles .... so over 100k .... and some service history. I would say 3000 for a good one and for something that has been well looked after ..... perhaps 3500. Anything more and it would have to be special .... (new/rebuilt engine, re-spray, serious replacement of parts, modifications, etc.).

Have a look at the 'Parkers' website .... you can pay a fee for 3 days to use their site .... just a few pounds .... nothing much .... that way you can find out the 'correct' market value (dealership vs. private sale) and take it from there.

http://www.parkers.co.uk/

Also have a good look at Autotrader and see what the average prices are. I would tend to disregard what you see on eBay as this stuff can really be taken with a pinch of salt (or is that a sack full ?) don't trust them as far as you can throw them !

Spend in Haste, Repent at your leisure ..... or is that Marry ? lol.

Remember always check the service history. Even if it takes you 30mins to wade through the paperwork & receipts .... 'DO IT !'. If the seller rushes you they have something to hide.

I had a bit of a horror story before I bought my VR6. I drove all they way to Harrogate to see a VR6 at a car sales room. After 2.5 hours driving there I find out that it had NO paper work, no service history and had been a fleet car for a company .... so multiple users with no respect for the car. To top it off I get there and the engine is warm and running .. ? Just enough time for everything to warm up and let the exhaust expand so as to hide any gaps ! I left 10 mins later, walked straight out .... to the anger of the owner. He also wanted 5000 for it > ? far too much, I was going to knock him down as I had the cash on me. If it looks dodgy, has no paperwork and you get told story after story from the owner just get the hell out !

Also spend the 40 or so on an HPI check ... worth it !

 

Here's a quick quote from Parkers for a 5dr VR6

http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/used-prices/Valuation.aspx?deriv=5886&plate=56&buysell=buy

 

I sold mine for 1550 on a 'K' plate, 190bhp - the bargains are out there to be had

 

thanks ezy d i know wat u mean about lookin about the first few car i bought 1 of which was c reg audi coupe which nearly went bang on the way home i have sort off rushedinto buying them because i needed a car ectect but im in no rush this time as i still have my mk3 for a while and i only work 10 mins from home and i think the mrs is going to have me 8v so alll good hopefully