i've got mine screwed to the inner wing just behind the left headlight, nice and close to the battery. if you want yours somewhere else, just look for any place where's there's very little road grime, it should be fairly dry there.
been wanting to do this upgrade to mk2 for a while now and was wondering is it possible to also upgrade the fog lights? found a few diagrams online for either 2 or 4 lamp, not sure if been posted before but may be of help to someone.
fog lights can be uprated also, but i dont think it would really add much, they arent that bright at the best of times, fogs use same bulbs as the spot lamps. easy way to try it, simply wire 1 fog light direct to the battery as a test, turn em on and compare light patterns in the dark
Can you get some sort of automotive waterproof relay box to put them in? I've heard of plastic bags being used otherwise to try and stop the grime
I have given up with the kit on my new valver. The relays kept attracting moisture and shorting out. Result was a flat battery and lights with a mind of their own Now using uprated Phillips bulbs with the standard loom. Works well enough
I just put mine on slam panel on passenger dise, handy wee hole i put a nut & bolt thru. been like that for years and no trouble to report.
It's a good idea to make the loom long enough that the relays sit behind the battery, rather than between the battery and the headlight. It protects them from moisture a bit. Having said that, I've had no trouble with one of mine, that sits in front of the battery, in about 5 years of use. It's probably better to have the relays facing with the connector end down the way, and certainly not facing the front of the car, as that makes it more likely to get wet.
my relays sit under the slam panel out of site , theyre shoved in a latex glove and bound up with tape , touch wood theyve been okay 6+ years dont really notice unless you look for them , then its only a realy bound up in black tape...better than them failing cus of damp
I got a loom but not sure how to fit it Its a two relay one its got 4 spade connectors on it and 4 female spade connectors for the headlamps wire colors (suppose it dont make any differnce) grey brown yellow white not too sure which go where though
best ask the seller but vw colours are earth -brown high beam -white (whitey brighty) yellow -low beam (yellow mellow)
looks like my pin 30 goes into the head light loom |30 85| |86 _ 87 30 two wires white and a yellow one from each relay 87 has two reds going to a o ring for battery 86 has one white one brown 85 has a loop between relays going to thin brown spade
try maplin for a storage box, they have varied sizes and strengths: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=69740
Interesting numbers from the Hella Relays catalogue! 100% Voltage = 100% Light Intensity 95% = 83% 90% = 67% 85% = 53% For a 12 Volt system the 100% base figure is: 13.5V. 85% is 11.5V. Just checked both my batteries. They are on the bench and fully charged using an Optimate electronic charger. One reads 13V the ohter 12.8V, approx 95% of 13.5V. So light output is down to 83% already, without losses due to poor connections, etc..
Quite right rubjonny. For some reason I'd got it into my skull that each cell of a lead-acid battery was 2.2V not 2.1V, so was expecting to see over 13V disconnected. DOH!
Can you use these without uprating the loom first then? I thought this would blow fuses/melt the original loom
I'd be more worried about the headlight switch if running uber wattage bulbs on the old loom, they're getting old and tired now and running too much power thru em doesn't do the switch any favours. also on old headlamps it can melt whats left of the old glue so your lenses fall off
those phillips bulbs should be standard 55 watt...safe as any other bulb on the standard wiring if you dont do the loom your missing out loads , they make such a differance its funny how so many can afford tacky exhausts and cone filters and other tripe...but cant drop 30 to see well at night
