I'd just buy a 2.1 VW-M block from Bildon and avoid the hassle of finding bits. IIRC, they come complete with everything and aren't badly priced if you add all the individual part prices together. There's plenty of random blokes in the USA that do awesome 16v heads aswell; you've just gotta be patient to find them and wait fecking months for them to do the work. Although, this Blydenstein guy seems to have a good rep. I always judge them by what they can tell you of the process before starting; if they list every individual mod to the head (proving their experience and not that they're learning/experimenting as they go) that's a good sign. What are you doing about a crank? My ABF has a lightweight, knife-edged crank and I have no idea whether these come standard (?!?!) - I they do, I'd be hunting down an ABF bottom end if you don't want the Bildon one
cheeers guys,any links to the schrick stuff? yeah hatesv8's(great name )buying a complete bottom end is another option but its just the exhaust manifold that bothers me plus i wouldnt get the experience of building it myself... but,for the abf short block with fancy bits its only 1000 cheers guys,keeeeeep it comin
I'm sure there's a bit more to a kit car engine than that, Mart See the thread on Dubforce.net where matey has bought a proper ex VWMS 16v motor 5000 euros.. Only thing with building a hi-spec motor yourself 'to get experience' - If/when it self destructs at 8000+rpm - you're going to cry as all your hard earned will be wasted. I'm not a valver guru, btw - All I did was bung in a fire-damaged Corrado engine Edited by: G_V_K
My 2 pence worth, You want to spend $2000 on piston/rods/crank alone and build it yourself in a recon block!? You must be nuts! If you haven't done it beofre then go and do it on a pooty engine first. You don't want $4k of new parts walking to the scrappy because you torqued up a rod bolt/main bearing a little to much/little. You can do better with Euro sourced parts and spend your money elsewhere as people have said. There is a guy on here (procter or something) who has Nissan 200sx turbo forged pistons (F'ing high comp) on modified rods in a bored block to give just over 2l. Block/head has been decked to give appropriate C/R and he didn't spend anywhere near that much. Search under "stress risers". Its the only thing I can remember from the thread as the engineer who machined them had removed material from under the piston crown.
The numbers I listed out is the ABF VWM block from bildon The VWm engine were based around them numbers.. Exhaust manifolds are probally the least of your worries Riley, easy enough to get a total custom nice oen made up
euro sourced car parts? spend money else where? but i will be anyway... proctor? who didnt spend much,how does his engine go? is it a good,strong,torquey,powerfull engine? i dont want to just buy a 9a or ???,and have the usual flowed head,cams etc... the mk1 put out 175 brake and it just wasnt quick enough. i dont know why but,it seems like some people just want me to throw in a 2 litre with head work and be happy with that... whatever happened to backfiring,high revving,internally modified,normally aspirated enthusiasm? maybe all the ford boys have got it i sort of know what your saying,but i dont... no one wants that to happen...but my dad is a time served engineer and mechanic,my best mate is a time served vw mechanic who has his own garage. and im perfectly capable of torqing up a rod bolt or a bearing cap. ill admit ive never had a crank out before,(done everything else)but im an obsessive compulsive learning perfectionist... cheers to all who have helped so far basically everyone in theyre own ways...
I dunno Riley, it seems as though getting a self built 16v to do all those things isn't as simple as bolting a few expensive bits together, great if you and your mates can do it, I'll be really interested to see the results,seriously! But when more than one UK Valverist goes to Holland to get a 'proper' 16v built it makes you wonder why the expertise isn't available over here, doesn't it. When I asked one of them what made him go to Holland to get it built... "cos, there isn't the knowledge over here" was his simple reply. Only problem being, understandably RobT won't tell you the ins and outs of his 240bhp 2 litre 16v , he paid for the knowledge. And if, all it takes is copying Bildon's spec ABFs - lets see you back yard engineers build these 2.1 16v monsters! It'll make a change from all the 1.8Ts for sure Edited by: G_V_K
I agree with gary, id like to see a 2.1 running with trick bits inside. As for there not being the expertise over here..Rubbish..It's just finding the right people. How much F1, rally car, forumla ford, lotus, jag the list is endless is designed and built over here..Even alot of nascar engines are built over here for American competitors.. No offence but RobT's engine is likely going to be anything thats not been done before i'd imagine, all the info is out there tried and tested before, it's just a case of finding someones setup that works and copying it, if you want to make sure you get the results. I'd say a vwm interally spec'd block wouldnt be a bad place to start..mk3 rally car type engine. Edited by: madmk4
Mart, I know that there's a lot of expertise in the motorsport world over here - You've only got to look at people like Ilmor,Prodrive,Tommy Field and even my local RS specialist Harvey Gibbs builds Cosworth engines for folk all over Europe BUT we're not talking about that Where's the VW 16v engine builders??? I'm sure Rob would've preffered to 'stay British' rather than go to Holland, and knowing Rob he would've explored all avenues before making his choice.
im here ok 2.1 at least vwm spec it is why not eh? this is something ive never understood tbh... people are like that at club rallying,whats to hide? id be proud of an engine spec like that,and be bragging about the fancy bits. theres always someone got something better or worse... whats the reason people tend to prefer the abf over the 9a? just the bore/stroke ratio? as standard? Edited by: riley
its the rod stroke ratio. The ABF block is 236mm (from crank centre line to deck) as opposed to the 9A 220mm block. This means the ABF can run a 159mm rod instead of the 144mm rod. The longer the rod the less of a angle it has to sweep to occomodate the same stroke. Check the link for some theory, gives a good explanation on it all. Piston Kinematics
oh and if anyone is interested, look at this for clever, it basically projects the perceived postion of the wrist pin up into the chamber.
rallye,tim? thats fantastic info so the taller block+longer rod=less stress=easier revving...in real laymans terms so when a standard abf's at tdc the piston top is sat 7.5mm lower from where it would be with 159mm rods using original pistons/crank specs...? just trying to understand clearance issues etc,in my head. im gonna do some (a lot)of individual pricing up and see whats what...
