Mine is like the above but im sure i can wiggle the bulb without the soldered tails moving so hopefully its just a connection inside. I dont think they would have soldered the bulbs in
problem solved now. i had to brake the bulbs, than with some pointy thing burrow inside the holders to remove the remains.
Bit of a thread revival having had lots of gauge discussions at the Bristol meet last night. As the car is used on track a lot and my MFA sender/wiring is looking very tired, I've opted for a 50-150 degs oil temp VDO gauge (rather than the Audi ones which hardly deflect) and a corresponding 150 degs oil temp sender to go in the back of the ABF head. The instructions advise picking up a switched live from the fusebox for the gauge feed (rather than from the ignition barrel). Mine has a '90 spec CE2 fusebox, so which wire am I looking to splice into? Presumably I can pick an earth in the same place?
cant see what difference it makes ,but as it says that you may as well do it,so if you have a test light just prod around for live feed with ign on ,or just look at rubjonnys FAQ and find an ign feed like this for example H1 pin 4 H1 1 - red/blk- ignition switch pin 50 (starter cranking feed) 2 - red - ignition switch pin 30 (permanent live feed) 3 - blk/yel- ignition switch pin X (x-over ignition live feed) 4 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (coil ignition live feed) and for the earth just use the earth claw above the pedals
Doesnt really matter. Stuff like that always says "from the fusebox" but any switched ignition 12V will do. Use the fag lighter
Thanks chaps. Mounting the gauge to the right of the instrument cluster, so hope to pick up wiring near the ignition.
So, looked at this yesterday. On the fag lighter, am I correct in assuming: Brown = earth Red/blue = 12v (permanent supply) Blue/white = 12v (switched, for green light ring) I've picked up the earth and the 12v switched for the VDO gauge, as per the instructions. It didn't help that my new oil temp sender is way too long for the ABF head position, so I couldn't really test it out Just spoke to Merlin Motorsport about this, where I bought it all from, and they said I need to 'T' into my 1/2" braided oil pipe, where it returns from the external oil cooler!!!! Seems a bit of a faff given that there's a perfectly good sender position on the back of the head. I guess the other option would be to run a 'T' piece in the back of the head, as the sender remains external then.
fag lighter is no good, that's a permanent live feed. look round the back of your fusebox on the D plug and you'll see some black wires sticking out of it, use one of these. D 8,9 or 11 are all fine, there is usually one wire spare just hanging back there. you'll also find a handy spare grey/blue wire hanging out the D plug with a spade on it, thats your dash lights feed. for the earth crimp a spade on it and use the claw above the fusebox, simples
^^ Thanks!! Will have another go at re-wiring later this week. I think, having talked things through with Merlin again this morning, I'm going to have a bespoke oil cooler return line made up with an in-line oil temp sender position. Will cost a few 's but will ensure that I'm actually measuring oil temperature!!
I have a 50-150 VDO from Merlin and I just used the standard VW/VDO OEM sender. All you need to do is match any VDO guage to the correct sender. ie 50-150 Guage = 0-150 sender. It will say on the side of the sender what it is. Mine works really like this and is confirmed correct by my MFA . Have a look here for some more info.
Thanks mate, really useful link. So, if I have the 1H0 919 563 sender unit (I am running an ABF after all!), then it should work fine with my 50-150 VDO gauge!! Will check this evening. Happy days
50-150 gauge is a good idea. Audi one is pretty useless to be honest Out of interest what sort of readings should a mk2 get oil pressure wise? Once warmed up mine idles at just under 1 bar (8v with a 2E bottom end and Mocal cooler).
