What could be done to improve performance on mk1 gti?

As pre Carbs4ever it appears GX may be a North American engine code.......very odd

 

yeah that's why I am a little surprised It's a bit strange how an american block came down here to Malta ...

 

maybe for future reference which 2.0l block will fit a mk1 gti head (the one I have) with the least problems?

 

Well the head will fit all 2.0L 8v iron blocks without any issue, but due to potential exhaust fouling issues you would be better off fitting a bubble block rather than a tall block.

 

so an audi 3a would be the best one in your opinion? Yeah I wouldn't want to get a tall block for fear that the webers will hit the firewall. As for the mountings are they the same or modifications are required?

 

Threads merged.

 

btw do the tall blocks sit higher up from the mountings or lower down (ie the sump would be lower or the head will sit higher?)

 

hmm might have issues with the webers then :/ will have a look. thanks mate

 

someone told me that I should swap a whole 16v for the best performance, instead of keeping the head...but on somewhere else I read that the 8v give better performance when tuned compared to the 16v and more fun to drive. Which statement would be true?

 

A well tuned 2.0 8v will give you about the same power and torque as a standard ABF, but use more fuel.

 

would like to ask what is the terminal on the side of the distributor body? is it an earth? because it is disconnected :/

 

When the car left the factory it would have had a pressed metal shield round the distributor cap that has a lead that plugs on to that terminal, at some point in it's life your car would have had a new distributor cap and this shield has been binned along with the old cap. Nothing to worry about at all

 

oh great one less thing to worry about, hehe you are always ready with a great reply mitlom ) thanks loads ehh!

 

is the standard oil cooler enough for fast road applications or maybe does it need repositioning? and an important question...are the 8v valves and their seats hardened steel because the man at the fuel pump told me that if not unleaded fuel will eat them away :/ !!

 

I'm afraid that is woefully incorrect.

8v engines take a lot of money to match std 2.0 16v performance. 8v engines take an absolute fortune to get close to mildly tuned 2.0 16v performance.

You probably don't have 42mm Webers on it - you are much more likely to have 40s or 45s

 

Did he mean bronz phosphor valve guides.

 

thanks buddy...so the valves and seating will remain intact...is it true that it will need timing adjustment? I found this...http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=5613

Hmm so I'd be better of fitting a 2.0 16v head instead of a 2.0l block? (yeah I know... preferably a whole engine conversion but I doubt I can afford it :/)

I should have 42s because that's what's written on their top cover ... I also found it a little strange as I never thought they existed

 

42s are rare. They actually made 38, 40, 42, 45, 48 DCOEs.

 

The chances are the head is ported already if it is running such a cam. This being the case the engine when setup (compression ratio checked and optimised?) should be knocking on for std 16v engine power anyway.
You really need to know what you have got now before anyone can recommend any further modifications with regard to the engine.
If you want to make the car quicker then look at gearbox ratios, lsd differential, suspension / handling and brakes. These areas will make more difference than adding the extra weight of a 16v of the same output.

 

thanks mate Yeah I am actually waiting for a mechanic that specialises in webers to have a look at the engine, tune and service the webers and have a look at the head as I still don't know what's inside

as for the other mods you mentioned it already has LSD, and next on the list after the weber tuning are the coilovers and maybe stiffer ARBs thanks again