while building my 2 litre 8v engine using a 2e bottom end and mk2 digi head im going to put a fast road cam in, which is recommended alongside, 4 branch, chip, filter and exhaust system? also, which cam belt and head set do i get? as im using mk2 top end and mk3 bottom end cheers fellas
Use the 2e cambelt (Mk3 GTI) A mk2 gti head set, but use a 2E head gasket As for a cam I like the kent GS1 works real well low down and gives good power If you want a bit more go for the Kent GS2 I have built a brave few 8v units and These are two great sticks. If you fall on a Schrick FR Grab it, Piper 285 Fitted a few, good but I felt the kents are better. Slip a set of 35mm exhaust valves in that head aswell
how much am i lookin at for cam n valves doing buddy? with these mods is my car gonna shift? lol cheers matey
see the group buy for head work, the prices and standard of work are hard to beat. Cam wise the piper 285 is actually a 276, so not much different from the GS2H, either will work well. any of the schricks will work well. there have been some question over the quality of newman cams recently, so be wary of buying a second hand one. use a tall block cam belt and a AGG steel gasket for head! is the 2E a metal one??
I've found out recently that the set-up of the digi is fundamental, you can do all these mods but until it is set-up properly it wont be right. I suggest building the car to whatever spec you want, get it running then take it to a rolling road, who can then write a custom ecu map for you to make the best out of it.. i've got the same set-up as your intending on my daily and i do enjoy its speed but i think i need a cam and 4branch then ecu remap to make it shift. the manifold is blowing so need a 4branch desperatly. this one has not had a custom ecu map yet but my 1.8 has and i think the 2.0 would need it even more!. the car ran the same 1/4miles time in 1.8 and 2.0 form. i believe its down to the set-up, the power seems to come lower down the rev range in the 2.0 so you might need cam to make it a top end goer, which is what you need on a naturally aspirated engine to get more power- more revs!
pm 'vagobonds' on here for one of his heads. superb value and workmanship. try for the larger ehhaust valves too iv had 2 cams in mine. a piper 285 (276) and newman 268. i prefered the newman for everyday driving. power comes in real low down and pulls linear to the red. the piper you had to rev more. it was quicker at the top, but 8v's are all about the low really usable power. its not a 16v. so i found all round slower. il try pull out my rr printout
so were thinkin a newman 268, 4 branch, filter, full system, chip and possibly some headwork (if funds allow), and a rr setup n were laughin? is this gonna be driveable but also come alive when i want it to? hows it gonna compare to my 1.8 8v gti as its already quickish in my book? its running chip, exhaust n filter at min
i would not bother with fillter. a waste of 40 i went from a k&n to oe vag and it made no difference. but i did go from a full milltek system back to a new oe vag system with staight through supersprint link pipe. and that has made the engine rev slower at higher revs. and its so quiet! also wouldnt even bother with 4 branch. its far too much hassle and if your not bothering with big valves, not worth it. it will knock and melt things. get your std manifold ported. you can keep your chip. the car will be extremely drivable at lower revs. the 268 is perfect as it still pics up low and keeps it until 6k my car pulls strong from 2k, blips again at 4k and pulls to the red. at least it will again when the milltek is back on!
as paul syas i wouldnt bother buying a chip if your going to the RR, find one that can burn you a chip to suit your engine spec
believe stealth can do the chips. matched to spec. some people say fueling at higher revs is an issue. iv had no probs. so i think - 2.0 bottom end 100 dizzy 30 gaskets/oils 80 get all gen vw, esp head bolts anf gaskett! 'vagobonds' re built p&p head 260 (you need a head rebuild) newman 268 160 its good value. are you doing the conversion yourself? there are other variables too. new clutch, engine mounts. its kinda a while your there.......but the conversion itself is pretty easy. completely drivable, more than a 16v. if your looking at long term power, id look abf though. thats where im going next
I tried to get the gaskets, rings and bearings for my 2E bottom end from VW and they said they can't do anything without a chassis number which obviously I don't have as I just bought the engine not the car....the bloke basically told me to go to ECP.......slags!!!
there being lazy! you need the inlet and exhaust gaskets from the pb. and abf 16v multilayer metal hg.8v pb bolts
doin it myself but a friend mechanic will be helping a fair amount. wheres best place to get my cam fellas?
pm phillip walker on here. its where i got mine from. but, the schrick split duration, or tsr 202 look good choices too the newmans are supposed to be timed on std markings, but i was recommended to get a vernier too. never bothered though!
cheers matey, are the cams you mentioned all the same duration, or fast road items ideal for my setup? thanks again. with my conversion am i going to notice the difference quite a lot? feels nice to open mine up on back roads now but want that extra speed
will pull alot better to say, 100. thats in 4th! the newman is a 268in/268ex, and i think the schrick and tsr are dual profile 268/272. for me, a 272/272 would be too much, loosing that bit of low down power
yeah the ACD 'box digi will do 106 on the clock in fourth, but i would recommend something higher than a 268 cam, i run a 282 in the racecar and its ok to drive about the streets.. a 276 would be good for faster go go than standard... its all in the tuning.
