KR VERY down on power. CRANK SPROCKET DIED, see p.7!!!

got any pics of the procedure? Or any threads in here?

thanks

 

so the old rotor needs to be destroyed?

 

Jesus, im going to come and do it for you at this rate! pull it off, and put the new one on!...

 

ah, by rubjonny's post I thought that the rotor arm needed to be cracked with some pliers

 

yes, it was replaced about 20K miles ago...

 

Perfect,thank you for your comments


I won't be able to do anything until thursday, but I'll come back with news (unless the engine implodes before!)

 

one thing to note is the as stock the KR should run super unleased 98 ron, so if you have put in the cheapo 91 rom you get in europe then it will run like pap, so that could be part of the problem

 

I'm using 95, as I always do, and it's never pinked etc

thanks

 

right,

I just got myself:

-distributor cap
-rotor arm
-4xspark plugs


I'll replace all of these this afternoon. I'll come back at night with news.



In case it doesn't fix the loss of power, I'll try using the old set of spark plug leads which was working fine when I replaced them.


I've also bought a fuel filter in case all of the above fail.


If, then, the car is still running wrong....... I'll replace the whole engine with a freshly rebuilt ABF as I've been wanting to do it for a while and now that I've found a better job... it looks like it's the time!

 

hi there. I replaced the dizzy rotor arm+cap+spark plugs+leads and the car is still very down on power...

I've only left to test the worn crank pulley or something that I've been suggested here (I'll do it tomorrow), and a compression test...


does anyone know any ebay seller that sells compression testing gauges??

thanks....

 

hey,

which of these looks better to you?

http://cgi.ebay.es/COMPRESSION-VALV...s_Equipment&hash=item4cf1ad254d#ht_914wt_1053

http://cgi.ebay.es/BRAND-NEW-AUTOMO...s_Equipment&hash=item20ac714081#ht_1954wt_819

http://cgi.ebay.es/Professional-pet...s_Equipment&hash=item1c161dffd8#ht_1101wt_819

http://cgi.ebay.es/Compression-test...Tools_Levels&hash=item1c18d620d6#ht_912wt_819


what plug thread size, diameter, etc should I look for when searching for a compression tester?

 

the one in the 1st link is the one i have and works fine
the kit has both plug threads with it

 

great. that's what I'll buy then

thanks Neil!!

 

Today I

-added a wire from battery negative to head
-did some autodata - ignition tests, and the ECU is okay
-hall sender plug gets +11v with ignition on. Autodata says it's okay if voltage isn't lower than 5v.
-checked vacuum pipes, no leaks
-checked air filter, no oil/dirt
-checked oil recirculation pipe, not blocked


I'll take it for a drive and post the results.


I bought myself a compression tester gauge off ebay. Should arrive by 7-9 days. Place your bids !!


BTW:
mpg "used to be" about 28mpg when the car was running fine
now, it's 23mpg!!!!!

 

well the car is still running like a 80hp non-turbo diesel after what I did on the 27th of Jan...

What annoys me is that, even in neutral, if I accelerate (pedal to the metal), revs go up really slow...

now I need to shift down to 4th on motorway if I want the car to accelerate, while I could do it in 5th before :S


I know that a compression test (the gauge is on its way home) will tell if the engine is OK or not but I'm stuck at using the car like this as it's my daily....


I've thought that the in-tank fuel pump's filter (the basket one, I think there's one?) could be blocked. is that hard to inspect? Will a vaporised fuel party be with me while I do it??


thanks for reading

 

does the throttle flap open fully when the throttle pedal is fully down to the floor? is the retaining clip on the plastic part of the cable near the throttle body