Vr6 - GTI Ball joint extenders (again..)

Which is what the internally tapered inserts are for

 

Thanks Sparrow. Sorted :-)

 

Look like there is no way out for 5 studs owner's, unless something is made on request... And bucks.
Which is the lowering limit with no modifications?

 

Personally, from what I've seen I think the SCCH solution it the best available although that is based on the quality of the parts, I've yet to test it on track.

The TRE's and Ball Joint extenders are designed to work as a pair so keeping the TR's and wishones (and drive shafts) as good as parallel

The hubs need to be drilled out to 3/4" and the sleeves, which have a tapered rim, inserted from the bottom. The tapered rim sits up against the rose jointed TRE and allows vertical movement. The inserts don't quite fill the full length of the hub carrier so I have had some small spacers machined so they now sit flush with the top of the hub carrier.

The only thing I'm not 100% comfortable with is the bolt that connects the TRE to the hub carrier sits at the bottom with the nut at the top. Natural instincts tell me it should go the other way round so if the nut comes off for any reason the bolt wont just fall out but it's beefy enough and when combined with some thread lock I'm sure it's fine.

These images show quite well how it's roughly pieced together although from a Mk1 Golf I think. My TRE's will have a boot on them, the ball joints wont.

 

Sent an email to USRT, they would be pleased to produce the VR6/GTI version if we i can find "a bunch of chaps intersted"
Do you think we could do a group buy?

 

Do you have a link to theirs? Or are they selling the SCCH one?

 

Those guys, i guess are SCCH parts looking at part numbers.
http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=76_207_220

They also told me if there is any other parts are we would be interested to make them build/create.

 

Yup, those are the SCCH ones. Might be worth an email to SCCH directly, USRT really messed me around when I bought stuff from them.

I'd be interested in a set.

 

That's what i Just did

 

I would be interested in a set for the VR6 Hubs.

Have any prices been mentioned? I would guess you need to get numbers before a price could be sorted out

 

I would likely be interested in a set for a Mk3 VR6 depending on price.

 

They said "there is no reason why it should cost more thant the 4 studs version".
Sorry for the delay but my engine is gone and i had other things to sort out, soon i'll open a group buy, stay tuned.

 

the vr6 type arrangement is a whole lot more complicated to engineer than the 4 stud.

 

RobT!! Do you still have the cad drawings of yours?

 

sorry i dont.

 

Apologies for copying all this in from another forum and for it being based on french cars but is there a real negative reason as to why we could not adopt this style of making ball joint extenders in to our cars (MK2 for me)? I know its a large loading on the rose joint and that its not best to use them in this way, hence why the SCCH use spherical bearings but doing it like this makes a home brew option much easier/cheaper. The drop pins and associated top hats for the r/j are relatively easy to make and only take a lathe and the correct bar so it would reduce the cost massively by not having to CNC the spherical bearing holders as per SCCH.

"Afternoon all, after a string of ovaled hubs and knackered ball joints on my road rally car I/we decided enough was enough! Fenton and I combined our grumpyness and opinionatedness and made these







They use cheapo McGill 3/4unf joints sleeved down to 16mm with a en24t drop pin. I've just come back from a spirited drive down a very rough white near me and I'm still alive! Only time will tell how long the joints will last but I've used alot of them now on other cars and haven't had any failures.
Just thought some of you would be interested as there have been a few threads recently about making your own. These cost around 40 to make as we had a pair of wishbones already and obviously have the tackle to do it all ourselves.
I'll update this thread after our next rally in may, hopefully it won't be an obituary although I'm sure some of you may prefer that! ????"

Link to the 205gtidrivers thread - http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=149649

If you read on through the thread the owner is using them rallying on some fairly rough stages and having no problems so far.

Just another idea in the pot chaps

 

I assume your talking about a differing design because that doesn't really achieve what's required from doing this mod i.e. dropping the ball joint down further. Assuming the extenders would be longer:

For what it's worth, and I am no expert, I wouldn't run a set-up like that. The forces that go through the wishbone/ball joint are large. I wouldn't use extenders that aren't welded to the hub as well as pinched. Also, that wishbone extension just doesn't sit well with me at all, surely it must change the way load is applied to the wishbone? I'd also want a meaty split-pin on the ball joint nut too.

I'd also imagine that a 205 is considerably lighter than the Mk2 although I honestly don't know.

I'm not saying it can't/won't work but given the little I do know, and what I know about what happens if this part of the suspension fails, I wouldn't run it on the Corrado, particularly if driving on the road. With a tubular wishbone design? Maybe but comments above would still apply.

 

I should have been a bit more specific in what i was saying. The actual ball joint extender would be the same as a the SCCH style ones shown in post 85 by yourself above, with the drop pin turned from en24t threaded at the bottom, drilled for a castelle nut and welded to the upright, a proven design. I was more offering the different way of attaching it to the wishbone via a r/j attached to the end of it. I.E a slit cut into the end of the bone then the internally threaded bar welded in place so that the r/j can be screwed in. I just thought that if the consensus was that it would be safe to use the r/j in that way then it would be a lot easier for me to make as i would not need to make the spherical bearing holder that fits in place of the oem ball joint.

As for car weights, i have my mk2 down to 863kg last time it was on the scales but that was pre cage install. I have heard of 205's down to the 650kg mark so they are a fair bit lighter.

 

i wouldnt do that with a mcgill rod end