If what you're seeing on the carb looks like this, you probably shouldn't go for the 'all off one relay' approach: The idle fuel cutoff solenoid needs 12V all the time the engine is running, and wouldn't get that if it was fed by the relay/thermoswitch combo. The red connector that doesn't go anywhere in this pic would go to a part-throttle channel heater (not there on this carb), fitted just below the idle cutoff solenoid I think? You'd want a 30A-rated relay driven by the thermoswitch, additional to the above connections, wired up to the hedgehog/manifold pre-heater with at least 2.5mm cable. The earth wire I've labelled goes under one of the screwheads on the carb, probably that one just where it is now. If what you've got doesn't look like this one, just ignore me! I know that this carb was from a 1.3 Golf, but have no idea whether it was the original carb on there (likely), the engine code or year of the car. Strangely, the VW part number stamped on it, 030 129 016E isn't to be found in the Haynes Pierburg manual, or vagcat.com; errr...
cheers for the coninuing help guys this is my actual carb pete that wire you say is ignition live on mine goes to the auto choke with no other conections on the choke unit apart from the red oen so im asumign the red one must actualy be the igintion feed and yours is missing the auto choke unit? Im sure my wires are totaly standard and not been re done so assume whether from relay or ignition live they all run from same feed and tthe only diferent part is the hedgehog which is relay/temp sender controled? p.s the 030 number will eb a casting number and isnt etka regonised
Ah, yes. I had a quick look inside the choke housing but didn't spot that it had an electrical heater in there. I assumed from the lack of wires coming out of mine that it wasn't there. But it is when you look carefully. So what you say makes perfect sense, red connector is the power feed from ig. live, no part-throttle channel heater (possibly the idle cutoff solenoid soaks some heat into the same area). Might be worth testing your hedgehog before you go to the trouble of wiring it up with relay etc., if you haven't already? Just measure resistance from the feed wire to earth. Should be very low when cold, somewhere around 0.5 Ohms. Thanks for the part number info.
hmm i'm still thinking it needs the temp cut-off, the 2e2 autochoke heater is only on when the car is cold. I'm thinking on this one the heater etc all cut out when the coolant gets hot and rely on heat from the coolant feed to prevent icing? Plus the 3 things there all seem to matchup to the 1.9 diagram which suggests it should work this way. Basically my main worry is the carb heater beign stuck on all the time...
I hear that, but I'm almost certain that without a 12V feed to the idle cutoff thing, it'll cut out. Easy to test, I guess. The fact that all the wires are pure black makes me think "ignition live".
hmm i guess, it just doesnt seem right diagram 11 in the haynes seems to show it, it has the autochoke on the temp sensor but the wiring paths dont match either of the above carbs and the thermotime switch isnt even shown. However the 2 carbs above dont seem to match either madman's has the autochoke dasy-chained off the other ign lives, where yours does not have the autochoke on there, and you have two spade terminals?
I'm pretty sure the carb I've got did (once) have the autochoke heater wired up (to that male spade, presumably with a female spade on the actual heater wire coming out of the choke housing). Had another look inside the choke housing and the little heater wire, which should look like a little 'slinky' going all round the unit, behind the bimetal coil, is barely there. Looks like someone, or something, pulled on the feed wire, and kept pullling, unwinding the heater coil for most of its length. The reason I looked at this again was to try to measure the resistance of the heater element, to see how much current it would draw if it was permanently on. The remaining one-third (?) measured about 5 Ohms, suggesting that a complete one might be around 15 Ohms, and so take about 1 Amp with engine running. You could just hack about the wiring to take the feed to this from the same relay output you're planning to hook up to the hedgehog, but I'm not sure I'd bother. I'm still thinking the idle fuel cutoff solenoid needs an ignition live all the time the engine's running. TTV also, otherwise I think it would become a vac leak via the innards of the pulldown unit, if it didn't have its heater on full time. Edit: Except... heatsoak up from the manifold might be enough to keep its air valve closed once the engine's nice and toasty? Presumably VW did it this way for loom simplicity/cost reasons, even though the autochoke would be fine unpowered after two minutes or so of running from cold. Best of luck with it anyway fella.
cheers for the input guys does my last diagram of the relay look any good? what colour sender grey? i was gna wire rest up the 3 carb thingys to ign live that be ok?
Relay diagram looks good, red thermoswitch (thought you hadn't seen a grey one?) links to coil connection. The power feed into, and out of, the 'switch' bit of the relay wants to be nice and thick; because if your hedgehog is working right it'll take around 20A initially when it's dead cold, levelling off to 15 or 16 as it warms up IIRC. Ignition live to the rest sounds good to me; might be worth putting a small inline fuse in the feed (10A?), belt 'n' braces, in case anything's shorting. No idea what current the idle solenoid might pull, but if you measure resistance from it's feed (with wiring unplugged) to earth on the carb body, you can find out. I think the TTV will pull 1.5A approx.
yup i havnt got a grey thermoswitch ! only red or grey so red (thermo switch)one getting igition live feed from the coil? yup was going to fit a inline fude cheers mate(10A) As for the relay agree it draw's a lot of current but the haynes diagram only depicts a 15 amp fuse ?
Are you looking at Wiring Diagram 11, in Haynes 1081? In fact none of the hedgehog circuits (I've seen) show a fuse that is actually in series with the relay or hedgehog. There's a fuse there, but it seems to go from the 'switched live' side of the relay, to an unused connection on the back of the fusebox (E14 on early cars, M/2 + G1/8 on later ones). I have a feeling that this is to do with the same fusebox being used on different car variants. So that fuse/connection may become used if the car is a Gti with an electric fuel pump, and appropriate relay, for example. So, wire up thermoswitch and relay just like you drew them a few posts back.
yup gona wire it up the same a smy post got the actual relay rated at 40 amps wow! apart from it has 30 and 87 doe it matter which way these go round for the main feed in out? also its the red sender rigth as the blakc is for dash temperature?
Logically, you should connect 30 to permanent live, 87 to load, but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work if you did it the other way. Yep, use the red one.
