okay ..if some of the sensors are in waterways and some not, there must be a reason for that and maybe it DOES matter which wire goes where stu..the isv controller is mounted in the console, whip out the console and its like a large realy as for me..ive done a few bits n bobs but not the controler yet, one thing my car hasnt had in a while is a thermo switch..would i be right in thinking if its screwed the cold start may spray to much/too little ,i think theyre about 40 though
Yeah, I thought that myself so tried a few different combinations of which wire on which sender today but didn't make any difference. Doesn't rule it out though. Ah ok - will have a look and see if I can see any problems there on my car, Do you mean the thermotime switch? Which one is that, the brass screw in connection under the water pipe near the WUR? Can't quite remember what that does but yes, has something to do with cold starts - have a look in the Haynes manual, I think it tells you how to test each component and what they all do. Any thoughts on the contents of that Vortex thread posted above?
i'll have a look at the votex thread now one thing..ive tried leaving my ign on for like 30 secs while i put the stereo on and seat belt...seems to start nicer that way...not a cure but maybe a clue to something edit..okay i read the vortex thread, id never have imagined it would get gunked up in there, i mean its clean filtered fuel going through there on a regular basis..why /how would it gunge up i could give mine a blast at work, but what if something gets damaged Edited by: pigbladder
Yeah, that's what I thought - if you blow out the fuel lines what could get damaged? Fuel filter, pumps, accumulator? They seem to just be suggesting blowing out the return line though, presumably this just runs directly back to the tank with no filters etc in it?
i cant see how it would be blocked in the first place...any crap thats got in the return must have been through the whole system first i may give mine a gentle blast at work
Bit of an update: Yesterday I disconnected the fuel return line from the metering head and blew some carb cleaner through it. Don't have a compressor so used a footpump with a suitably long pipe and nozzle attached. Made sure to take the fuel filler cap off first and could hear air blowing through to the tank. Anyway, put it back together expecting nothing and it started from cold (had been left overnight) for the first time in about 6 months without stalling! It was still a little lumpy at first but soon smoothed out to a much better idle than usual - I was well chuffed! Anyway, left it overnight again today and unfortunately it's back up to it's usual tricks of starting and stalling for the first few attempts in the morning but once warm running nice and smooth. So, this leads me to wonder what happens overnight to the fuel in the return line? Does it evaporate or something? Presumably the fuel pump accounts for this when it primes itself when you first put the ignition on? My brother has a theory about a non-return valve somewhere being faulty allowing air to be sucked into the fuel system? Any ideas? Is seems clear to me that the problem on my car at least is a fuelling one rather than an electrical one now - need some more help to sort it please! Edited by: Stu
Sounds like its your Fuel pressure accumulator. I think I recall someone having a similar issue once. Im not too clued up on this but at a guess, whats happening is, when you first start the car after it sitting overnight, the accumulator must be loosing the pressure held in the system. When you go to start it, it then takes an age to fire up as the fuel system has to pump itself back up to pressure. Same thing happens when you try and start them after changing the WUR as you have to remove lines from it and the system looses pressure. Whats not so good is they cost 70 quid from GSF
i belw and airline in mine today..not too much pressure and some carb cleaner too, i also cleaned the isv and pipes ,crank breather hose and metering head wont idle at all now just as well ive got another golf stu..about what your thinking, doesnt the fuel pump prime when you turn your key?? mine does, maybe turn your key on/off a few times see if it pressurises it ?? i put mine on a gas tester...it ran 1% cold up to 2% when warm..i cant see that being lost fuel pressure from overnight...vince said it should be richer or close to 2% when cold Edited by: pigbladder
Hmmm... oh dear! If it won't idle at all it sounds like there is a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd suspect the overrun cut-off valve first as that can cause those symptoms and is fiddly to get back together when you move the airbox and ducting around. Fuel pump - yes, mine primes when the ignition is turned on but I did notice an extra 'gurgling' sound when it was priming after I'd blown out the fuel lines compared to the usual 'buzz' type noise. Odd? I'm inclined to think something is amiss with the fuel accumulator/pressure regulator thing located near the fuel filter and pump under the rear of the car. Going to have a read of the trusty Haynes manual and see what I can find out. It seems odd that my symptoms were cured after blowing that airline out but then returned after leaving the car overnight. Any more ideas?
did your fuel line look at all gungy?? maybe you dislodged a lump of crap and it blocked it up again over night mine looked mint inside you blew through the one with the arrow pointing out right?...how did you seal it to blow through over the weekend i also went over a few other things..i cleaned the red/blk coil wire and the conections at the coil..i also swaped in a used cold start valve and checked the throttle switch with a multi meter i spose i may have knocked the overrun thing off while working on it
No, didn't look gunged up really, was clean at the metering head end anyway but at first I couldn't seem to blow much air through it. Yeah, one with the arrow out that joins to the blue fixed fuel line further back in the bay. To seal it I used a very advanced procedure involving a footpump with a nozzle attached for pumping up an air-bed or similar. Into that I inserted the straw from a can of WD40 which I taped in. The straw fitted nicely down the fuel line banjo connection! Suppose it could have blocked up again? Will give it a few days and blow it out again, see what happens then. Don't think it can do any harm except maybe dump gunge in the tank which will then stick in the fuel filter?
i spoke to 2 mechanics about it today, they tend to think it would only be a problem on a car thats stood for a long time...petrol goes like jelly after its stood ages...and after all its had petrol rinsing through there every day my car has been used dailey and ive had it sinse it was 4 yr old, so mine shouldnt be skanky i spose if it is blocked..maybe undo the conection where it joins the blue hose and try and run some inj cleaner in there through a funnel..then soak the banjo bolt piece too...im a touch scared that something may break blowing through it??? anyone know how/where it ends
Dont think your problems have anything to do with "gungy" fuel, the car would run complete pooe all the time if the fuel wasnt getting through properly. Plus theres a filter at the pump that should get rid of any crap. I really think its got to be something to do with the accumulator, if I can find that old post about it i'll post it up, the guy had the exact same symptoms as you.
Reading your symptoms, they are a bit different from stu's so yours could certainly be something else. If it is meant to be 2% from cold though, im not sure what could cause it reading 1% as it looks like you've pretty much changed everything that controls it Edited by: smithy
Cheers Smithy - I will have a search for accumulator posts too. From reading GSF catalogue and Haynes manuals last night it seems the accumulator is the same for pretty much all K-jet VW's and is 55 + vat. I wouldn't mind spending that if it definitely fixed the problem, I suspect the main issue would be fitting it without shearing all the fuel banjo connections at the pump etc! Pigbladder - my car did used to be a pain to get started/idling nicely even a few years back when I'd left it for a week and been on holiday or something. It was only since the Stealth setup that it started doing this every day from cold though, presumably because Vince altered the fuel pressure, WUR, control pressure and whatever else they do? Seems like I might have always had this problem but it's only got worse since the Stealth tweaking. Going to give that fuel line another clean out to see if that helps and then maybe start looking at replacing some parts. The Haynes book mentioned a pressure valve thingy in the metering head which can be unscrewed and 'shimmed' - would this need cleaning perhaps? Is that the FPR that the Americans go on about on Vortex?
Yes - thats the fuel pressure reg. You could take it out to inspect it but I very much doubt it will be manky. Its the 16mm bolt head (i think) with the 5mm or 4mm allen centre thats located at the front right hand side of the metering head when looking from the front of the car. You dont need to touch the allen key bit to get it out. It might be an idea to get a pump/accumulator from a scrapy and give it a go before shelling out on a new one - should be cheap enough I would have thought I managed to change the fuel filter on mine without shearing anything, and the banjos looked original (bit rusty), but they held up fine. I caked all the connections in waterproof grease to stop them getting any worse which should save them for a while. Edited by: smithy
Good idea, I could try and locate the whole setup with pump, accumulator, filter and connections from a breakers or scrappy and swap it all to see if it works. The reason I thought the banjos would shear is 'cos when I tried the replace the filter once it all looked a bit dodgy, got a local mechanic to do it on a ramp instead. Will have a look at the pressure regulator and see if it's manky. As you say, probably not but I'm learning a bit about k-jet along the way
I've been keeping my eye on this thread and I think its time for my 2p. Stu, I have recently had aplay about with my fuel pressure and at one point had problems that sound just like yours. It was being cause by the system pressure being too high. I'd added a shim to the fpr that was too thick. Once I removed it the car was back to normal. If Vince adjusted the fpr for you I would seriously suspect that this is the cause. Take the fpr out and see if there is more than on shim. If there is, then remove one of them (the thinest if you have achoice) and see what happens. Pig, if your mixture is low when c9old, but fine when hot then it is your WUR. Even if you've replaced it there is a change that they were both fecked - or you have a blockage in either the feed or return lines to the WUR.
Yea, thats what I was thinking, but he's tried 2 other WUR's, so I find it unlikely that both would be knackered. Worth a try though Interesting about the problem when the system pressure is too high, i've got mine sitting at 5.2 bar and it has no problem starting hot or cold. Did you measure the pressure it was at when you had starting issues? I certainly wouldnt rule out the accumulator though, still seems a likely cause to me.
