Hi I'm running a 1.3 Golf, and upto now has been a very reliable servant as my daily runner. I have started developing a problem when she is running warm, by trying to stall at junction etc when i back off on the revs. This only occurs when warm and I'm having to compensate by over revving the clutch..not a good thing eh.. Now I just tried to phone a so-called reputable tuning firm up near Glasgow and he unquote stated "Junk the pierburg pal and get a weber, by the way give us 300 for the pleasure!)" Any ideas help would be appreciated P.s nothing is obvious and all hoses seem attached connected. Rob[:^(]
Hi, Get yourself a can of decent carb cleaner for starters, and with engine revving reasonably high (say 2500) spray generous amounts into the carb (airbox completely removed). It could be just some air passages (on the top of the carb) blocked with gunk. Be careful; my latest (expensive) carb cleaner squirts out a sufficiently powerful jet that you can easily get richochets into your eyes, no fun at all. Safety glasses would be wise, I don't know what damage you could do to your eyes, but I know it stings! If possible, take a photo of what it all looks like before you do this, and post it up on this here, could be diagnostically useful. If it was all filthy, this may be all you need to do to restore normal operation. Then check that the breather pipe down into the crankcase isn't too gunked up, cleaning out if necessary. Let us know whether these things get you anywhere. Pete
Well give her a good blast out with the carb cleaner, Found the flap (in the air box) that the vacuum pulls open and closed had a broken spring, therefore a quick visit to the scrappy cured this.. No obvious signs of gunk in the breather down to the oil seperator What I did notice though was that the car revved when I was spraying near the carb flange to the manifold, me thinks not a good thing... Looked up part number on GSF 18304 , 19.50?? Toying with changing this out..any hints? Thanks Rob
Yeah, new carb mounting flange is almost certainly gonna be good. They're rubber-based, for sealing, and thermal isolation, and over time (what age is your 1.3?) the rubber degrades and gets looser and maybe leaky. Probably an easy job to change it, not too sure what the 1.3 looks like. On the 1.6 driver, there's a soft aluminium plate that sits under the bolt heads that hold the flange to the inlet manifold, you just bend the tabs out to get your socket/spanner on the bolts, then bend them back to keep the hex-heads from loosening after you fit the new flange. Don't overtighten the bolts that hold the carb down onto this flange as you refit the carb. Doing this can distort stuff and cause trouble. The warm air feed to these carbs is pretty crucial, especially in winter, so well worth checking the flap/vac piping/thermostat stuff quite thoroughly. If your cutting-out problems happen more often in the morning, and especially on damp mornings, then carb icing is your prime suspect for a cause. There's probably about 25-50% of 15+ year-old Polos and Golfs out there suffering these troubles, which can usually be cured in about 20 seconds by finding the cracked flexible vac pipe that connects the rigid vacuum pipe to the airbox thermostat, or from there to the warm/cold air flap. Warning! Made-up stats. Good luck, and don't forget to let us know what fixes it, always useful extra info, even if my theories are shot to bits.
Well I've progressed after hot footing it into Glasgows GSF and returned with a strange looking rubber manifold for 19.50 plus vat. before removal:- off with the old:- grotty under side: Wonder why it was leaking? Slight differences to the 2e2 manifolds in that the bolts go through the manifold and do up from underneath(no exhaust manifold to contend with) Also replaced a grotty vacuum hose that was only visible when the carb was off! Going to fire her up tommorrow after doing up the bolts to massive torque of 9 in/lbs! Next is to trace the idle and CO screws and see if she'll set up ! later
Been there, done that. The only one on my carb that was actually leaking evaded my first round of hose replacement... Nice pics/nice work, looks like you've definitely found one problem. May well be worth your while testing that your hedgehog is working well while you can see/touch the spiky fella. Be careful though, if it is getting hot when you turn the ignition to the last position before the starter starts cranking, it'll get v. hot, v. quickly. (It's meant to!)
Aaargh its back no sooner than she went and now its back.. Bit of a ***** to setup this carb eh? Still tending to stall when warm.. Anyone got a weber ? Yours Grumpy![:^(]
Ignition stuff? Could be coil/dizzy-cap/rotor arm/HT-leads/spark-plugs related? Seems slightly unlikely to be carb, if it only happens when stuff's warm, at this time of year. Could be mixture set-up not being too good, did you get a garage to set up the CO and idle speed 'nicely' after your last round of fixes? Also could be foreign bodies in your float chamber occasionally getting sucked into the idle jet, then falling away again. Trouble with Webers is that once people have them, they don't tend to give them away again...Scrappie? Not sure what the 'drop-in' replacement is for a 2E3. Don't give up on the Pierburg just yet, unless you can rule out all of the above.
Well the saga continues.. Changed the HT leads,distributor cap and thr rotor arm. Starts much better now! Then tried to set the CO/REVS and tried and tried and tried Could only get the revs down to 950 rpm and the CO at a sickly weak 1.6% Starting to head off towards Weber land cos this carb is starting to drive me insane!
What's wrong with 950rpm and 1.6% CO? Dunno what Haynes says for your engine, but that's not far out I'm sure, what numbers were you looking for? Is it running OK now?
Haynes has it running at 2.0%@ 800RPM Shes running Ok pulls well above 2k however when settling has a tendency to hunt (pardon the pun!) anyway between 950 and 1300 she has stopped cutting out when warm though Another go tommorrow Regards
Well Today arrr... The petrol pump threw its towel in! Excuse for me thinks to jam the Roccos solid state electric on.. bang sorted good stuff. Took her out tonight runs well however ocassionally still wants to stall when coming off the revs.. Going on a really long run with her tomorrow (500 mile) too see if she'll settle, if not I'm really going consider a carb replacement and maybe even a head reburbishment to boot! I'm starting to wonder if fuel starvation is an issue?? because sometimes the fuel filter has stacks of fuel going through , other times theres seems no flow! Thanks for all the advice, especially Pete ..I'll post up soon just before the black waxoil flew to hide those dodgy brake pipes! Finding much more room to work on the MK2 Golf compared to the rocco! Rob
Well three hundred and 70 miles completed and shes come down pretty good on 3/4's of a tank. Got all the way to Corby , got to the first T-junction and bang she cut out. Got the CO/rev machine on her and she had managed drift considerably in 370 odd mile. Set it up again going to see if runs OK the rest of the way to Portsmouth. Fun these carbs aren't they!
Not one of those uber-accurate Gunson thingummies by any chance? I borrowed one once and gave up on it really quickly. Is your idle speed still as-set, and it's just a different CO reading you're seeing? Unless you spend quite a bit on a DIY one, I'd be more inclined to take it to an MOT test centre and ask them to put it on their machine, shouldn't cost much at all as it'll only take five minutes. Did you disconnect the crankcase vent hose before setting the mixture? Can't really see how it could drift much TBH. Much more likely to be the measuring instrument.
Hi Well yes she is a gunsons CO machine, worked fine for me in the past.. I do find it drifts however I just pull her out of the pipe and re-calibrate.. no issues I will take her to an MOT Station though as I'm getting peeved at this cutting out malarky and no matter how much I tweek it to get her running smooth , within ten minutes she back to running like a bag of spanners! Regards Rob
Beaten! Well my problems have have been sorted and I'm afraid the pierburg has gone and a nice shiny weber 32/34 DTML is in her place.. and my goodness is she grateful, unfortunately my wallet has suffered however she is now more frugal, goes better and now with the manual choke does not rev to 3000 rpm every time I start from cold.. My goodness what a simple carb as well compared to the pierburg! only two vac hose to boot as well!
im looking at doing this switch on my 1.3, does it have to switch to manual choke for the weber or is it possible to keep the automatic?
