'90 2l 16v(ABF) mk2 (restoration page9, going megasquirt), mk5 ed30

This is what I first saw on Toyotas from the 80s and 90s and have been using on VW MS looms ever since.
Very easy to work with.

 

You will still need to wrap the wire runs in insulation tape. The corrugated bit is split down the center and acts a protective cover.
Tees and elbows fittings also available to make neater.

 

Some good and bad this week.

The bad:
Went to put the sunroof in and found when putting the spring clips on that one part of the runner is damaged. See below, a comparison, the pin has broke on one side






The result is I need a whole new mechanism. One has been found quite locally but he wants 60quid, which I think is too much. Or is it?


The good:

Got the windscreen and rear window in. Thanks to my other half's uncle, who used to work for autoglass. They were in within 20mins.




Managed to get the heater box in, with plated bulkhead nuts(obviously)
Before it went in I repaired the seal, well more a gap the size of the grand canyon.

Before




Cleaned up




New seal




It's still got a gap after putting a seal on both mating surfaces. It is much better and I am reluctant to tape it.

I tried the dash back on to check wiring space. All looks good, so wiring can be finalised.

 

After going away for a week, I'm back on it.

Thanks to a recent post, by who else but rubjonny, I managed to get the correct adaptors for the kr fuel filter. I bought 2 the same initially not realising they would be different.

So the pump stands like this, and the accumulator holder can be cut off.




Also managed to get a loom built up for the electric recaro seats with some decent connectors.




Got the electrics tried by wacking the earths on in random places. All lights work apart from the wing indicators, but I think it's due to its earth being in a crap place. The seat I tried went up and down. So, all in all a result. Plus it meant I could now put this in.



This weekend I'm going to try and get the insulation in, followed by the carpets and seats.

 

Grafted today to get this far. Had to re route the wiring from the passenger side through above one of the airbox mounts and cable tied up out the way of the pedals. Then I could get the underlay in.




One that was complete I could get the carpets in. Yes, they will be cleaned.






Then as the carpet was in, and before I finished for the day, I got one of the seats in so I could pretend to drive it.





I'm thinking brake lines next, and yet more wiring to tidy up.

 

This is coming along great. One question though, Where did you find the info about the fuel line fittings?

 

Someone asked not long ago and rubjonny, once again came to the rescue. I'll find the link and edit it in here.


http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?t=282591

 

Brakes, brakes, and more brakes.
I think they are needed so I got the brake carriers painted on Saturday after having them blasted.




In between coats I cut bent and flared the hard lines (kunifer 3/16" pipe)

Also got the new 9 inch servo in, along with the 23mm master cylinder which I modified at work. I do still need to grind the servo spud down 3mm, but I just wanted it in position for doing the lines.




Modified 23mm master cylinder with mk2 rubber bungs.




Rear beam hardlines in place, but I still need the little clips which are no longer available [emoji22]. Any help?




Need these clips, expensive on ebay




New pagid regulator with plated bolts. Passenger side hardline running to new HEL braided hoses.

 

Cheers I'll give them a go but I think that was at tps when I tried to get some.

 

Awesome thread you got here mate ! just about to start doing exactly the same to mine, one question though. Have you got any photos on how you repaired all the rot on the drivers side rear? (where the towing eye sits)

mine pulled off the other day when winching it on to the truck and under all the sealer its rotten so was just wondering if you used repair panels or made something yourself using sheet metal?

 

Great job Martin!

I see you flipping well managed to plate your own BANJO though not mine!?lol

 

Haha, done one of yours that's come out okay. Still unsure on whether to redo it again.
Not started the other one yet but I will soon.

Tried plating the handbrake cable guides to make sure it was the setup and not something strange going on with the banjos. Alas it was the setup as the cable guides started to flake also.

Think I have sorted it now.

 

You is flipping brilliant my son.

I am in Bahrain 'till 30th April so no rush!

 

Beetie, use silicon self adhesive tape to wrap your engine and ms loom wires as an intermediate solution. Its easy enough to use and it comes off with a single gentle swipe of a blade, literally explodes open because you can stretch it on. I dont think youll have a problem with clean hands and as a tip, I use brake cleaner to wipe down most all parts of a greasy car because it leaves no residue. The self adhering tape doesnt leave any gum and then you can pop on the split corrugated stuff like nige recommended and if you have to check wires, give it a small nick with a blade and it will open up like a tramps legs and you can get in for a closer look if things go wrong.a lot of my engine loom was first wrapped in linen to prevent the electrical tape gum

Theers also nice heat shrinkable chinese finger expandable braid on the market if you really want the ultimate in good looking wiring. Carefull not to use spiral wrap in the engine bay, its not high temp. I use the cheats braid, it supports higher temps, but its a split type and works for me.

You can aslo find heat shrink with glue inside to support any small connections you have to make and the best life hack I managed to work out was using two heat shrinakble inline connectors where I needed a small resistor to drop the oil temp sender to calibrate it. That tiny resistor kept breaking at the joint, so it encased it in between two joiners...still going strong.

 

More progress over the last few weeks. Has been slow due to having to find other parts.

Managed to find another sunroof mechanism for 40quid.
So put that in




Which meant that the headlining could go in, albeit needing a clean




As the old kjet fuel lines a not the best and no one local wants to repair them I decided to switch them out for newer stuff. Cue a mk3 abf setup and the re removal of the mk2 tank.

Side by side




Mk3 on the left, mk2 on the right. I needed to modify the mk3 breather to match that of the mk2 before installation but that was easy enough.

Once in the mk3 plug was repinned with the mk2 stuff. Just a case of colour matching, easy peasy. But in need of a clean




Underbody mk3 fuel filter and lines in place of the old kjet pump assembly.




All brake lines finished off.




This meant the carriers and calipers could go on with new HEL stainless lines. Apart from one of the Hubs, the nearside, was scrap.
When my brother helped press out the bearings way back at the start, the circlip was missed. This meant, obviously, the bearing would not come out and all the pressure went down through the carrier mount. That in turn resulted in this.





The carrier hits the front face of the disc and still won't go on behind the carrier mount. So hub = scrap

Good news is I found another one locally off a corrado 16v for, yes you've guessed it, 40quid. That hub is now at retropower being blasted and painted in gloss black 2pack epoxy.

I've also found a great big scratch I the passenger door window. A new 2nd hand one was sourced but the bracket is different! Don't fancy trying to switch them.


The plating kit has also failed. It now just won't work, just flakes off. So now I'm going to send the rest of the bits to a platers.

2 steps forward and 1 step back, springs to mind

When the hub returns I can finish the brakes, get the exhaust on, Rear Arb on, and the car can then stay on the ground and await the engine.

 

Looks really nice

 

Coming along nicely, shame about the plating issue

 

Cheers, must be too contaminated. Got most of the bits done and learnt new things, so all good.