I've been debating getting headwork for ages. Spoke to the guy today when i dropped my flywheel off and came to the conclusion its not worth it on my MK3 ABF... even he said so. For what it would cost and what I would gain i can't really justify it. 600 quid for the full monty on the head, plus an expensive and hard to find remap on digipants or aftermarket ECU, new valve train components etc. A lot of money for 10 bhp. Think i'm just going to stick to short duration, high lift cams with little overlap and small valve lift at TDC and new lightweight lifters, which should give good midrange improvements and perfect idle. You're pretty lucky with your mk2 to have lots more options, especially as your running emerald.
You're not gonna get the best from the cams which is a pity Don't underestimate the difference a good head makes. Honestly Azur it will be worth every penny - It will still be drivable without a remap but not quite as great as it could be but still miles better than a standard head. What about the place in fleetwood along from where the TVR place used to be? EDIT: Hunts for name but memory lets me down- I'll look out the place name and post it up
For a road head, you don't need new valvetrain, unless there's already a problem with it. A remap would be a good idea though. If a head is done well, it should improve MPG as well as power, as essentially you're removing restrictions in the gas-flow. However, you'll probably just drive faster and use more fuel
yeah, i know what your are saying. However, the cams i am looking at are designed for a standard head, to optimise standard flow figures. they are catcams 261/261 (221/221 @ 1mm) with 11.2 mm lift and 1.05 mm lift @ TDC I don't want to go above 1.1mm @ TDC as i will start to lose my idle, and they have less overlap than standard so the increased lift wont cause any issues with lamda/MAP sensor. the timing is very similar to standard @ 0/41/40/1 so i dont think the head will be much restriction, as there is only a slight increase in duration. The ABF ones would be below optimum spec for the head anyway, and with my exhaust, modified TB and opened up airbox/filter i think these mild cams would be close to optimum, with good midrange torque due to the high lift at given durations. Even if i got the head flowed i couldn't go any fruitier than these as the lift on overlap would mess up the MAP/lamda control
Yup a sidgen more lift and duration than standard cams. Found it: http://www.motorsport-developments.co.uk/ Dunno if they are any good though. EDIT: I meant MSD not the Cams
ah well. ill be a guinea pig and give the cams a chance and let everyone know how i get on... no-one on here has really fiddled with cams on a Mk3 ABF apart from glen on his uber-car. If they aren't great i can easily swap them over if i ever get the head done. i've spent weeks gettin anally retentive over various cam profiles like kent 1602r's, schrick 260's and these catcam ones and they seem to be the best. I couldn't work out why to bother with the kents when the exhaust cam had a tad more duration but .6mm less lift than standard.. think they are meant for Kr's more.
how no how no one has the simple answer to what is the uber valver setup! what valver drivers want, is more of the same! just x10 i reckon if i just laid mine up every winter, and left it alone, then every spring, i could roll it out and with a twinkle in my eye and a roar under ma right foot it would blowawaythe winter blues i like everyone else want more!more!more! the thing is, ye cannae argue with an optimum standard valver that wont blow up and can tak anythin ye throw at it! that is until a honda ****es on ur sunshine! mr hillclimber- rock on- WE WANT MORE ps. pardon my english hope i get my message across! n/a rocks
Hi again All, So my next path seems like head work. If that's the case then I want to replace the cams too and save another remap further down the line. recap: ABF emerald managemeent magnex 4 branch. What cams would anyone reccomend? Torque being the target.. cheers
So, if you're on Emerald management, you're using electronic injectors (ABF ones?) and deleted the Kjet flappy thing? If you're having the head worked, and thinking of tweaking the CR up to about 11:1, then something around the 260ish duration is probably about right, especially if it's a road car, rather than a pure competition car. Cat Cams have a good rep, but I haven't used them myself *yet*. As for head suppliers, you can spend 300-400 with either Vagobonds, or the man in the shed, or about 2.5 to 3 times that with CNC heads (if you pay the extra 100 for them to finish it the same way as the others). CNC quote very impressive (if slightly misleading) figures on their website, but I don't know of anyone who's got one of theirs. I don't know what Mr Hillclimber would want to rework your head, but his results look very good. Could well be worth a PM.
Trouble is, if it's torque you want, most of the things that you'll do to an ABF will move the torque further up the rev range (I am assuming when you say "more torque" you mean more mid range torque?) Pretty much the only way to get more (lower down the range) mid range torque is a capacity increase (or turbo). On the other hand, if your willing to compromise the mid range a bit then the ABF can be made to give quite nice power with "ok ish" mid range... Whatever you do it's more VTEC style than VR6 As you have standalone management you can pretty much do whatever you like with the induction and cams, as Mike_H says, bump the compression, hotter cams get it re-calibrated and your good to go. Cheers Simon
He didn't specify where he wanted the torque A reworked head, and mild cams, will give a torque increase over most of the rev range, and I reckon in a Mk2, the driveability would still be pretty good, provided it's on a long runner manifold (like the standard one). I'd expect that spec to produce 190ish bhp, if properly set up. EDIT - if you're paying someone to do the work, it'll be well over your original 1000 budget though (that would cover the parts, just about).
Thanks for the responses. I emailed Mr Hill Climber who was very helpful and very reasonable but he's maybe a bit too far away.. I'm in London. I spoke to the Phirm and they will rework the head for around 500 inc labour. I'm a little bit dubious about them though for some reason. Not sure this sort of thing is their speciality.
is there any cheap options to increase the displacement? i.e by a rod and crank combo? but not a aftermarket one, somthing in the VW range that can be sourced cheaply second hand. like the diesel crank for the 1800 to make it a 2.1. can something similar be done with the ABF? seeing as it already has a tall block so i guess the opens up a wider range of cranks and longer rod lengths?
Nice motor Just to stick my oar in I weighed my old 16v a while ago - came out at a shade over 1100kg with nearly a full tank and no driver. This is about as heavy as you'll get as it had all the late spec toys - leccy windows, sunroof, side impact bars plus all the trim. It's replacement is a very similarly specced '89 car (CE1 and small bumpers) will be interesting to see how that compares when I can get it to the weighbridge.
Bit OT and I think I've posted this before... But anyway, the following corner weights may help someone: - MKII Golf Gti (late 8v) 1/4 tank of fuel, full interior, 15" alloy with 195/50/15 tyre on passenger seat F 304 299 (603) R 193 199 (392) 995kg total MKII Golf GTD (late) 1/3 tank of fuel, stripped out back F 305 315 (621) R 164 168 (332) 952.5kg total MKII Scirocco 16v conversion (KR) 1/4 tank of fuel, stock interior F 308 302 (610) R 162 178 (340) 950kg total Lastly, no corner weights, just a total: - Corrado 16v (early KR) 1/3 tank of fuel, stock interior, sunroof 1150kg total All weights from proper scales Cheers Simon
I expect The Phirm will send it to a specialist or a local machine shop to get it done - unless they've got a machine shop at their place, they'll have to. That's pretty cheap, if it includes fitting, gaskets, etc. Do you know what's included - e.g. new valve guides if needed, and 3-angle seats?
