Hello Boys, I'm back! @Toyotec gave me the part number for the thinner cooler, was listed as a 1.8t mk4, some audis and other stuff too, I actually got one from a 1.9 tdi in a Somerset scrapyard at about 8 45 one morning, and had the oil ingrained in my arm for most of the day afterwards. The picture shows the difference in chunkyness. But it was still too tight and so had to relieve the mount slightly, nice round shape, no sharp corners to get fatigued and split or crack, can reinforce it with a bead of weld if wanted. That's first grind, not finished. And on the r32 filter housing swap the oil pressure switch to one of the mk2 ones and undo the front Allen cap blank for the second mk2 one to fit.
Ah ha! I wondered why James left the MK2 oil pressure sensor switch plugs on the loom as there was nowhere to put them. This explains that perfectly
Aye, it's for gauges and buzzer to work, we also had Nother tail with crimp that was for the oil temp which wasn't used as no mfa instruments on the mk3 swap. And just for comedy purposes, here's a pic of me being careful with a dislocated knee and torn ligaments getting the loom in the mk3.
We are busy working out where all the coolant pipes go and have come to a conundrum. The schematics below show two pipes running to the same spigot on the reservoir. Clearly this cannot be the case. The first diagram is the return and the second is the feed. Pipe 43 on the return is the right size to go to the bottom reservoir spigot and pipe 30 on the feed is the right size to go to the overflow/breather on the reservoir. Indeed, when laid out in the car they line up with the correct spigots. Is this an error in the schematic?
Well yesterday was a bit of a mare. It started off ok, I made a bracket for the PAS reservoir. Then I fitted the reservoir and we spent quite a lot of time routing the pipes. I also had to make another bracket as I couldn’t get the actual bracket to line up. I then ran out of clips so ordered a assortment of P clips from Amazon which arrived today. In the meantime I thought it would be a good idea to fit the starter motor. Well, this is where it started to go down hill…… I wanted to remove the bush that the starter motor fits into and use the new one that came with the motor. It would not budge! In the end I had to break it up with a small screwdriver and it came out in bits. Of course this damaged the edge of the hole so I spent some time gently filing and sanding burrs off the edge of a hole I couldn’t see and could only feel with the end of my finger. That done I went to fit the new bush. It would not go in. It then slipped from my fingers and dropped into the bottom of the gearbox I had visions of removing the engine and then the gearbox to retrieve it. Ralph then had the brainwave that we should have a look with our endoscope. I didn’t hold out much hope but, lo and behold, there it was. First we tried to retrieve it with long forceps but couldn’t get a decent grip and the bush kept moving. Then it was bent coat hanger. This was the winner, it was out of the hole but then it slipped and teetered on the edge of the hole. Ralph carefully went to get it and duly knocked it back down the hole This time it went into a different position, more awkward and less easy to see. But with careful manoeuvring and patience we had it, out it was, so relieved. Anyway, starter motor in…. What I also did yesterday was weld a spacer on to the front engine mount to complete that job. And on to today…… First job was a little road trip to collect this, it made a nice change to immediate work on the car. More on this later but you can consider it a bit of a cop out Next was coolant. We set about sorting out where all the original hoses went. This wasn’t too bad using the schematics from LLL Parts (above). We are using the TT thermostat housing whereas others tend to use a VW VR6 one. We only have the TT pipes so it made sense. Quite a lot of pipe work is junked. In case you were wondering this is where the “afterrun coolant pump” goes. Apparently this runs on after the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots. The red tape denotes a defunct part. We plan to use another part of the hose system to replace this two part with a one part and lose the T piece. So ultimately, coolant enters the pump from the bottom and is pushed out the side and into the block. As you may have guessed from the above we are getting shot of the oil cooler heat exchanger. It’s too much of a faff to take the engine mount off again and cut and weld it and even then the heat exchanger cap doesn’t really fit properly. The result is that the two coolant pipes feeding the heat exchanger are no longer needed. I don’t know whether they need to be joined to keep the flow or if they can just be capped off. Tell me if you know. And finally for the day we are trying to figure out the EGR SAI pipes and what can be gone and what needs to stay. This is what we have found so far, using the below picture as a reference. The pipe with the green circle goes to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. This is no longer required as the hose is routed the other way to the MK2 reservoir. The red circled pipe (we believe, see above post) goes to the coolant reservoir overflow spigot. Again this is now defunct as the hose will reroute to the other side of the engine bay. Now, the blue and yellow circled pipes are a different story. They are to do with the EGR SAI etc and we have no idea whether one or either are still needed? All advice gratefully received here Onwards and upwards tomorrow……..phew……
That tormentation with the bushing reminds me of changing rear shocks on the 128 recently, the foam of the top plate is supposed to glued to the actual metal. I was removing the rear right shock and the foam decided to part ways with it's metal sibling and then fell into wheel arch structure. The language that was used on seeing this happen is not fit to print. I went to Canadian Tire and bought an endoscope and was able to see it when I removed a smaller grommet at the base of the arch curve if that makes sense, which I suspect was an inspection/wax injecting point. Long story short. removing another grommet inside the boot and drillling the hole a tad larger and then using one of those long grab tools, I was finally able to get it. A good 90 minutes or so of yes you guessed it....BALL ACHE. I feel your pain Phil.
The last couple of days has seen some good progress and another near miss disaster which I’ll come to Ralph painted the exhaust heat shroud to match the rocker cover, wow! Meanwhile I decided I couldn’t not change the o ring at the block end of the external water pipe, colloquially known as the “crack pipe”, to try and prevent future water leaks. It took a lot of force to remove the pipe due to corrosion. I forgot to take a picture of the before, but trust me, the after is a lot better! I since treated the hole with Hydrate 80. As you will know, if you remove the plastic cover on the offside inner wing there is a hole. We had deliberated a lot on where to put the oil cooler radiator and nothing at the front of the car floated our boat so we plumped for here. There is plenty of space. I made some brackets Trial fit Final fit with some paint. I’m actually very pleased with the end result The cooler flange looks like this. I just need to connect the pipes and make another retaining bracket for them. MTF In other news I ordered more starter motor bolts and because I just could not find a proper bolt, I made this. Starter motor now finally in properly. And to our near miss disaster. Fitting the coil packs this happened! The outer sleeve came off the shaft. I thought no biggie, I just pulled it out of the hole. I then slipped it back on the shaft and realised there was a bit missing? I looked in the hole and realised that the rubber bottom end had completely snapped off and it was wrapped solidly around the spark plug Ralph got out his trusty wire coat hangers and spent the next ten minutes fashioning a tool and finally managed to extract said rubber bit, phew, what a superhero A new coil has been ordered, this car really wants to fight us sometimes. What else? We finally have a full set of six good injectors so we popped them in (two didn’t want to go but were, slightly more than gently, persuaded). Fuel rail on. New braided fuel lines back to the original MK2 pipes. Loom mostly in (loose fit). Most PAS brackets fettled and fitted. And we are here. Really now we are at a (long) list of snagging. We are waiting on some bits and pieces in the way of parts and due to that we are going to be another week from start up attempts. I still need to do a detailed post on the SAI and what can be deleted and where those deletions are.
Was it a case of chopping fuel line connection off the r32 hoses and just pushing over the mk2 Phil, then clamping on the point with brass ferrules inside? Nice oil cooler, ducting up to it by chance? How are you controlling the after run pump? There is a relay from an audi that I used on my mk2, ran for 10 minutes after key out. I'll try and find info if need it. Or does your ecu run it?
Ditched the R32 fuel pipes altogether and, as you suggest, ran new pipes from the mk2 pipes, clamping at the ferrules. No ducting for the cooler, it should be fine with the air from the big hole and from the front of the car. The adapter plate has an 80 degree thermostat built in. After run pump is controlled by the ECU. At least it better be as the plug is in the loom.
Cool, I'll bear the fuel pipes in mind if need to do that on the mk3, not there yet quite. I thought the pump would be ecu controlled, just my s3 loom was earlier. I also swapped to a mk5 type pump as my original died quickly, but it was more remote than on the v6 lump, not bolted to block. If oil does get too hot could just remove the headlight. Only trouble I've ever had with oil was magnatec in a 1500cc A series mini (yes 1500!!) Is got warm on the dyno and the oil broke down, rapidly and messy.
A bit of a bitty day today. Ralph spent lots of time sorting out the now non SAI vacuum connections and connecting wiring etc etc. We keep finding things we need that we don’t have which slows things down a lot. We are now waiting on rubber hose, clamps, oil pressure sensors, coil pack, speedo cable and exhaust clamp I did make another bracket to stop the oil hoses moving about since they are so close to the alternator We are now here, looking much more complete but still loads to do.
This post is about the SAI and EGR delete as far as we understand it and how we have connected up what is required. To that end, so that people can find it when searching……….. Audi TT SAI delete Audi TT MK2 Golf conversion SAI delete SAI solenoid delete Audi TT SAI vacuum connections I’ll start with the obvious. The big canister and it’s bracket and associated wiring is junked. What is left are the two solenoids under the front of the intake manifold and the bracket and four pipes on the rear of the engine. What is required is vacuum connections to the vacuum control valve on the end of the variable intake runner and to the fuel pressure regulator. Firstly the pipes at the back of the engine. The green pipe carries coolant to the original coolant reservoir. If your coolant reservoir is to remain in the left of the engine bay you will need to retain this pipe or replace it with another. If your reservoir is to remain where the original mk2 one is then this pipe is redundant. The red pipe also carries coolant to the reservoir, therefore the same applies as the green pipe. The yellow and the blue pipes are for vacuum and they ran to other parts of the SAI system. They are no longer needed. In effect this whole bracket and it’s pipes can be removed and junked. So to the required vacuum. Under the front of the intake manifold there are two solenoids. You only need the right hand one, the left one can be removed. There are two vacuum pipes coming out of the bottom of the solenoid. The top one goes directly to the vacuum control valve on the end of the manifold as per the below picture. The bottom pipe is connected to a non return valve. The non return valve is fed (or sucked from) the rear of the intake manifold. It is connected to the green connection below. There are three other connections on the rear of the intake manifold. The two blue ones need to be blanked off. The yellow one is the vacuum for the brake servo. Between the non return valve and the rear of the intake manifold connection a T junction is required, circled in green below. This extra pipe is for the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail, circled in blue. In effect there is vacuum at all times to the fuel pressure regulator but the solenoid controls the vacuum to the vacuum control unit on the intake manifold. You can use the connectors you have left over from the removal of the other solenoid. If anything changes or is incorrect I will update this post but in the meantime I hope this helps.
We are still waiting on several parts so this morning was mostly taken up with this. The battery needed to go in the boot. Why? Just because Battery needs to go here because it is the neatest place to put it. We bought a battery box but it is huge and fits nowhere. I then tried to fab some brackets but that was a massive failure. Of course the battery tray is also huge and needed some modification. Who doesn’t love a cardboard template. Choppity chop and it fits quite nicely. Miracle of miracles but all the holes I drilled for my bracket failure lined up!! Battery in. And an earthing point. Another job off the list
Phil, for your own peace of mind, stick another couple of bolts in that battery tray, and maybe consider a lightweight battery? Putting my motorsport accident official hat on now, the kinetic energy/momentum behind a battery in an accident is terrifying, heaven forbid you'd be rearended it could do serious damage.
Things stalled for a week due to the shocking service Royal Mail provides! I actually had to go to the sorting office today to get my mail! Anyway today we had some packages and progress resumed. Oil cooler finally connected and all done up. In this picture you can also see the braided link hose which is needed to replace the coolant hoses that feed the original oil cooler. We weren’t sure if it was really needed and whether the inlet/outlets could just be blanked off but we went this way, can’t do any harm. It runs from the “crack pipe” to the block. Some air intake, loose fitted for now as we will need access to the inner wing to mount various electrics. New oil pressure sensors. These are the MK2 ones which screw perfectly in to the oil filter housing. We filled the engine with oil and the exhaust is now fully connected up. We are just waiting for the alternator loom and then we will be able to connect the radiator up, fill with coolant and………..
We are steadily lurching forward. Today we connected up the live cable to the starter and then on to the alternator. Installed a live busbar under the scuttle. A separate cable runs from the battery to this to power anything other than the starter/alternator. Earth cable from body (where the battery used to be) to the engine. Then on to radiator and fans. It is very tight. Then on to coolant hoses. This took a lot of time, trimming and fitting. It’s not ideal but it will do for now. Filled up with coolant. We shall see how much is on the garage floor in the morning
Nice chunky cables, proper job. Have you, or could you borrow a space heater, for first start up? Pointing at the rad, it speeds up initial warmup. On new engine builds, I fill them with boiling water for the same reason.
