Cable is from an E91 BMW, 25mm2 I believe. I don’t have access to a space heater I’m afraid so we will have to rely on ambient temperature I’ll just be happy if nothing squirts out anywhere……..
So yesterday was a day of jubilation and disappointment. We were ready to give it a go. We checked all the electrics, everything seemed to be working fine. So go time. Turned over great but no start. Why? Checked fuel pump and that didn’t seem to be running. Checked the immobiliser, that seemed ok. Ran fuel pump from a separate battery and it ran, ran it backwards and gurgling could be heard. Checked to make sure the correct ECU was plugged in, it was not. Switched to the correct one. Then we realised the fuel pipes were the wrong way round Switched them over. Gave it another go and…………… Then disappointment. The engine would tick over for 20 or 30 seconds and then cut out. Much scratching of heads and advice from @Toyotec . A fault code of p0321 reveals the issue is likely the crankshaft position sensor (engine speed sensor). So a new one is ordered and we will report back.
In other more mundane news….. We found that the new brake servo has changed the position of the brake pedal so much so that it now no longer contact the brake light switch. I know that the pedal position is adjustable but it’s actually in a good position as is, lining up nicely with the clutch and accelerator pedals. So a little ingenuity and some 3D printing produced this. Which goes here Sorted. Yesterday also involved some gearshift adjustment. This is a pain in the backside and without the special tool takes a while. We got there in the end though and all gears engage as they should (I think and hope, driving will tell for sure). What we have found is that there is a very small amount of movement between 1st and 3rd. Also, a brief test of the PAS appears to show that is working nicely.
Thanks @Tristan New crankshaft sensor arrived today and Ralph duly fitted it. I wasn’t there but I think there may have been some swearing involved We started it up and crossed everything. It ran……and ran……and ran We let it run up to temperature and waited for the fans to kick in and then turned it off. There was a fair bit of what I think was smoke coming from the exhaust manifold area which I’m hoping was just residual oil or grease burning off, it did reduce gradually. Will keep an eye on that. No leaks apparent so that is good. There is another issue however. The rev counter is not working and neither is the fuel gauge. As they are both in the same dial this makes me think there is an issue with the binnacle. It was removed during the process (still is) so something may have been dislodged. Any ideas? I will start another thread for this so people can chip in if they have experienced this before.
Just read through most of this. Some helpful info and great to see the progress. Currently fitting a BHE lump in my vento so it’s been an interesting read.
Brilliant work guys as always. Was very excited to see the video of it running. Have you tried the clutch and move under its own power yet? Would a mk4 brake light switch have worked for the extra length? They are on a ratchet system that adjusts on fitting, I had one in my mk2 due to the extra wires for the loom/ecu.
Not moved yet due to still putting things back together. Might give it a go tomorrow. Didn’t know about the Mk4 switch
While we wait for the rev counter to be sorted there are all sorts of snagging jobs. New speedo cable fitted today. We have moved the car back and forth about a foot in the garage There is a lovely big hole in the firewall which is perfect for loomage to go through and mount the ECU inside the car. However, how do you seal this up afterwards? I found a big grommet and retaining ring widely available on boat websites and eBay. It comes uncut but I jumped ahead before taking this picture. To fit there are four holes need3d in the firewall so self tappers can be used to hold it in place. It’s not perfect but it will certainly stop most air and moisture ingress. Once everything is finalised and road tested I’ll probably add some more loom tape to bind it all together.
Phil from my old electrical days, you might be able to use some foam insert to close the gap and then use a sealant but only if you're happy to close it off and you're done with the wiring. I would also disconnect the ground that is around the larger vertical loom and have it going in straight, it should allow you to cable tie the remaining looms (bar the vertical one) and make it easier to close it all up when you're ready to do so.
for the mk2 brake switch what you do is push the pedal, yank the plunger all the way out then release pedal for it to self adjust. mk4 switch also fits mk2 as well but you only need it if you have a drive by wire ecu and want to wire up the brake switch as per factory
Right then. Initial drive to the wheel aligners and back. Ticks over very smoothly and quietly. Accelerates nicely albeit very much chomping at the bit. Put your foot down and it’s stupidly fast! It’s nice though, the power builds nicely and smoothly. There is loads and loads of torque. We sprung a coolant leak but looking at the way the particular join/cap off was done it’s not surprising, in fact we are lucky we didn’t have a catastrophic burst However, we have a really horrible graunching/grinding on left hand turns. Not normal driving but roundabouts and turning left at lower speed. It’s coming from the drivers side and I think suspension related. There is no tyre rub and when jacked up the wheel turns smoothly at any angle. Could the top mount or movement in the strut cause this noise? It can very clearly be heard inside or outside the car.
Do not need the brake switch for an Egas MK2, nor the clutch switch. Surgically turned off in my cals.
I am going to close this thread off here. The job is 99% complete and so any further updates n maintenance I will include in the original build thread here https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?posts/2524862/
