I thought it was already a valver aswell, so I was thinking 2nd hand fast road cams, p+p head, 75quid tune up/ wur mod at stealth = a good improvment. I would have used the std 2Y box or a short ratio 8v box for the longer 5th, lightned flywheel is a good shout though, as would possibly be a 4branch. LSD would be nice but pricey if you cant fit it yourself aswell, widetracking was 100qud I was well pleased to spend though.
think we need to forget about the 200bhp, theres enough threads on here covering that over and over, 180 is realistic for a grand.
Before spending my theoretical 1000 on tuning an ABF, I'd be looking at optimising the 8v chassis so it was ready for the power hike Decent suspension Bigger brakes Uprated ARBs You would be well advised to go for a Quaife diff into the 02A box so the eventual power was usable...~500 + fitting. With that lot done, fit the ABF and run it on the standard management. A decent tune and remap by toyotec and away you go... You can aim for more BHP in time with a larger budget. Tuning always costs lots....
In fairness this thread is about building an engine, we have no idea what the chassis is like or if a separate budget is assigned to sorting it?
Have you got that wheel bearing fitted yet Chris? Just how long will a reasonably powerful Golf last with 239 brakes then? You can fade them with a 50bhp 1300. If this thread is just about power then there is no need for a car. Just bolt the engine to a dyno and brag about how much or how little you got. It has to be considered as a usable package surely? The OP should be made aware that there are serious limitations with the std oem brakes on an 8v, that needs addressing prior to installing a significantly more powerful engine.
Of course the wheel bearing is fitted, speed and efficiency being the hallmarks of 16v ownership! Taking a leaf out of Jolfa's book, engines first, safety second Or was that Magners first, engines, then safety? []
280mm set ups for sale all the time for around 100quid, my last one had ate power discs, ds2500 pads, hubs and obviously calipers, off an ibiza so not as old.
Yes. Then you can step the modifications one at a time from simple things to expensive things as the need for speed becomes greater. Forgetting the HP numbers and words, An ABF engine in a MK2 is a huge jump from an 8v (Sorry 8v lads) or even a well optimised 1.8 16v. It will take time to get used to that. If the car is being stripped down, do take the advise about upgrading your brakes to 280mm discs and Lucas/Girling MK3/G60 calipers and carriers even possibly your suspension components if worn.
Guys, Thank you for all your advice and opinions so far. Let me give you a bit more background about myself and the car: It is a 8v Digi at the moment. I ran it as it was for a week after I bought it to re-acquaint myself with a MK2. I bought it with the intention of changing the engine and suspension components and other items which tie in with these modifications. My aim is to build a well-fettled MK2 with well thought out components and upgrades/enhancements. There is no strict budget as such but I am not going to throw money at the car unless I can justify it. I do not mind spending extra money on good quality parts hence why I bought the Koni Coilovers and not some 200 eBay specials! I am keen to learn about how I can improve my car, this is my hobby as is all of yours. You know where I am coming from! I want to learn these skills so that I can apply them to my next project (I will never sell the MK2!) I'd like to think I am a fairly sharp individual and can learn skills pretty quickly but I am under no illusion that I know everything I need to know. I have a complete MK3 GTi 16v at my disposal, therefore 02a gearbox and 280mm brakes. The 280mm brakes will be used on the MK2 and I have a set of Koni Coilovers to go on it too. I will be replacing all the bushes with a mixture of OEM and Poly where suitable. I will fit uprated ARB's also. I am widetracking the car but using MK3 4-stud parts as I want to keep the BBS Ra wheels (and keep the car looking original) Look forward to your comments
Good stuff there Willber, it does sounds like you have done your homework already on the chassis mods. Fitting the 280 5 stud brake setup will require G60 discs, and also the hubs will need to be changed for the later 256mm 16v, Passat or mk3 golf type. The 280 calipers you have will fit straight on to these hubs.
Again I may be wrong here but can you fit 280's behind ra's i imagine its down to the type of ra's you have? just trying to to stop any errors before they happen, does sound like your doing your research though think the mixture of standard engine with a lsd'd box and a few other engine/chassis tweaks will be a big change to what your used too. I did similar to a mk2 8v digi to 1.8 16v a few years back and that felt like a rocket ship at first last thought is anything left on your mk2 donor could be sold of to fund further mods this may be moving into another topic/sub section though hope this helps
280s fit behind RA's if the caliper slider pin hex is machined down by 2mm and 16v caliper and pads are used They do on my 90spec 16v anyhow
Not noticeably so! Pad shape is exactly the same as a G60 setup but with less meat on the pad. Apologies for going off topic Willber
Not off topic at all chrismc. Using the thinner pad keeps the power to weight ratio up. Did I mention the 256mm calipers are 200g lighter than the wider 280mm ones.
My ibiza turbo 280mm set up fits behind my RA's with at least 1mm to spare, helps not having much pad left though.
There'll be less than 1mm clearance once you've got them nice and hot... not much room for error if you clout a kerb
