Converting wheel bolts to studs and nuts

Thats a shame - i'm sure thats the reason why i've had issues with my cheap ones as i had to lock two nuts together to fit them and i'm sure this damaged/stretched the thread. However, maybe if they were of a better quality this wouldn't have been a problem!

I started to add up how much it'd cost for all 16 plus the odd spare, and it wouldn't be cheap would it! Although quality does cost i suppose.....

 

Proper high tensile studs won't deform on fitting - treat that as a one off.

Re: nuts, Grayston nuts are fine. There'll be buckets on them in the Short Oval section at Autosport in Jan (only Sat/Sun). About 1 each, but watch out for imperial stuff.

 

There's a disc bell between the hub and wheel at the front.

 

I realise.

It's clear by sight that Hockly shoulder is ~10mm long - so it'll protrude into the back of a wheel.

 

A lot of motorsport rims run a steel seat so the hole behind it is larger than the stud.

 

I hear what you say, but I have a fair selection of magnesium rims, including Dymag and ex-works VW OZs - yes they have steel inserts, but they're backed up to the hub face:





It still leaves the question of how the clubman with his off-shelf rims gets around the shoulder, on what certainly appears to be a quality Hockly stud.

 

not sure on how far the should protrudes into the wheel, we are running a mix of modern 6spoke revolutions and compomotive TH3s on it. they're just off the shelf wheels though, no group 4/A steel insert in the wheel.

it's a mk2 astra with an AP big brake kit on the front, using alloy bells and 6R4 discs.

the reason for the shoulder is due to the thickness of the disc bell material itself. we previously used some misc wheel studs (which came with the car, now on the back of my polo...). the new discs must obviously be slightly different thickness/offset to "standard" so on normal studs without the offset shoulder a portion of the threads was hidden inside the disc (not ideal).

i can measure them up when i get chance on wednesday to take a wheel off

as far as "clubman" goes, i don't think you would be able to run these studs on stock wheels, afterall they are part of the hockleys group A/works bottom arm/suspension kit.

 

and no, no allen fitment as far as i remember.

And the hockley nuts on their site are just alloy grayston ones (which we just use, direct from grayston)

 

I'm going to keep coming back on this - there is no need for a 10mm bell thickness. I saw some 7mm ones a while back and they looked far too over-engineered. I'll be into the shed to dig out some ex-works Golf Rallye ones when I get a moment! I'd wager 5/6mm.

Works Novas used a combination of Revolution RFXs and OZ Corsas, same as forest Mk3/4 Golfs. The clubman is using compomotives and the like.

The nuts on Hockly's site I don't think are alloy. I recognise them, but not from Grayston, more from seeing them on cars. Love to know where they come from - he isn't making them, that's for sure.

 

Got my Bildon Studs installed- swapped from Compos to Speedlines (lighter wheel) and they're a great fit. I've got the 65mm ones on an ET38 wheel, could possibly fit a 5mm spacer if required too.

Apologies for the camera phone pics:







For me the cost of them was irrelevant- they're safety critical and need to be right I bought 36 (18 for a friend) I think with shipping it came to about 110 each last year.

 

They look spot on. Nice machined noses, and no shoulders to cause wheel issues.

More of an idea of what must be lurking out there - there's obviously some special wheels about:



^^ Protruding shoulders

(Group A Escort Cosworth btw)

 

Yeah- they're a quality piece of kit, just got to decide what loctie to use now, I've got a Loctite guide from work I'll scan in for geek points...

 

I bought those from Bildon

http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsList.cfm?ID=M12.DE.Stud&Nav=10&SubNav=none

with the radius black bolts, attention the radii are not quite the same as VW ones.

 

Cool, pop it on here:

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184975&page=2

 

A more accurate torque can be applied to a nut and stud also as opposed to a bolt. With a stud friction exists only between the underside of the nut and between the threads of the nut and stud.
That way torque transmission is less through the fastener using the stud method as opposed to a bolt, where in the case of the bolt the torque force needed to overcome the friction between the threads and what it is being threaded into(hub) IS transmitted along its length.

 

I know those black hockley nuts are alloy, and from grayston, one of the lads i compete sells the same ones along side grayston studs and nuts.

 

Ok, let's try and work out which ones they are - I don't recognise them.

Hockly ones:

 

Could be close!



M12x1.5 - Taper Seat - 19mm HEX - Black

 

Source? Grayston or other?

I've got a feeling those Hockly ones are steel - I recognise the shape and the nose on them.

 

Ones on the VR. My nuts are the same design as the ones above in black, but 17mm in steel.

Sorry for poor quality, these are old pics. Now new owner of Cannon DSLR 1000D, happy days.