Be careful with American sourced books as they got some different specs to the Euro cars. To my knowledge all Euro 16V heads use the same size valves, but they are nothing like 40/33. More along the lines of 31/27 I think?
I've got that book too, it's a good one. As it's an American book though I think they are referring to the 2.0 9a type engine fitted to their later Mk2 16v's rather than the ABF. Due to emissions regulations etc the US model 1.8 16v KR Mk2 only produced 123bhp hence the need to fit 2.0 engines in the late models. Edit: Actually not quite sure now as you said digifant, didn't the US Mk2 2.0 16v use k-jet (or ke-jet) like ours? Edited by: Stu
What is this thing?? My car is no different from other similar spec cars that have been built........most of which if properly set up give very similar results Secondly Kjet cars are consistent......and reliable Ian
Just trying to piece together the best 2.0 engine to start with, will need to do a bit more research as the book's mention of different valve sizes has added some confusion...
Best engine to start with is best 9A you can find - if you can find one - easiest swap for what you have. Second best would be an ABF - easier to find probably but a few bits different - TSR do kits for fitting this engine into Mk2 I seem to remember. 3rd route is via one of audi 2L 16V engines - more things different as they had longitudinal installs rather than transverse. There are no different valve sizes on 16V's in the UK. If you are intending to rebuild, condition is less important but for building a competition engine, I would get the best donar lump I could find regardless. Rob
I seem to rember that KR's have 28mm exhaust valves and 9A's have 27mm exhaust valves. However i am informed that they use the same seats so are interchangable with a bit of cutting and lapping.
The US didnt get the ABF engine. Valve sizes are no different on the 16V engines, (KR 9A, ABF), only the ABF has a different valve stem length. All of the heads (bar the early KR ones) are from the same cast (051)
I love the way your so authoritive and knowledgable hun - def a handy guy to have around!!! .......Carl S i have PM'd you... Edited by: Sexy16v
If you want to do road rallies your best bet is an 8V, you can prepare it to a far higher spec than a 16V I'm afraid to say [:^(] The rules may (only may) change by 2007.....
Oh yeh but for an allrounder a well preped 16v is fine. I bought a 20v non turbo engine for a bit of a bottom up rebuild yesterday from ebay 50 i intend to use that for sprinting with throttle bodies cams and a flow job.
Road rally rules are very strict for 16Vs at the moment so a good all rounder may be outside of the rules I was building a road rally 16V
Steve, good luck with the 20v on TB's. I looked at doing this, putting TB's on a 20v is scarcely trodden ground. If you move away from the stock cams you need new pocketed pistons, once you add these to the cost of TB's with an aftermarket ECU, you're into big money territory... Still, you should get past scrutineering with the block
They seem to list the cams for the 20v so i wouldn't have thought you would need to change the pistons. Motorsport World. (Kent Cam) Still it was only 50 so nothing lost, I will keep you posted on progress.
Hmmm, the Kent cams look about 200 cheaper for their sports R 384 inc VAT (278 deg) ...than the schrick cams which are 590 inc vat for their 276 cams. I wonder if the schrick's are 200 better ??
Well it was only 50 to start with and i think with a little bit of time and money i should be able to get good results and most people go for the 2.0 16v so i'm just being different.
