.I've been trying to find an old picture of its orientation, but hopefully this is a better picture of where it is now. I have watched a few you tube vids of which spoke about my early version should have the spring clips running roughly parallel with the cylinder head and so should the oil drive slot. When I came to fit everything my oil slot was running front to back, 90° out really. Stupidly this is one of the reasons why I redid all of my timing thinking something was out with my intermediate shaft.... I have read rubjonny saying ignore that somewhere. So I adjusted everything and couldn't get the damned slot to run parallel when all of my timing Mark's are aligned!! Confusing I thought as my distributor would not line up how I thought it should. Turns out the oil pump slot can just be turned with your fingers 2hrs later Maybe I could/should turn it slightly clockwise more, not today though as rain has stopped play
Wait until someone with experience comes along, I'm looking at it from what my later Digifant needed doing, may well be differences with your set up and causing you needless work. Shame the images are gone, but this may be some use, I find his explainations understandable! http://www.brokevw.com/timing.html
Have tried to find the stuff I printed off from when I was doing mine, but can't. My memory's probably playing tricks, but I have this thought that there was something about the TDC mark on the dizzy rim (that the rotor lines up with) was to point towards No.4 cylinder. I do recall taking the time to get it to sit that way (maybe needlessly now!) but perhaps it doesn't really matter? The only thing I can think of is that by doing that it'd maybe allow more scope to turn the dizzy left or right if required when adjusting the timing? If the Hall sender connection for example was right around at the head it might stick out so as to restrict access / rotational movement... just guessing?
I think that is an easy one for me to do and totally agree with the reasons behind it. I will give it a go
you dont need to worry about the marks on intermediate shaft, all the engine cares about is when cam is at tdc, the rotor arm is pointing at plug lead #1. while the timing belt is off you may as well get it all lined up but no real need other than for the sake of 'correctness' the notch in dizzy is where rotor arm is 'supposed' to be pointing when cam is at tdc, and is where you would put lead #1 if all is well. but there's nothing stopping you having the rotor arm pointing 90, 180 or 270 degrees off from the mark and just put lead #1 where its pointing, the engine will still run the same. When I built my MK1 16v I used an abf dizzy cap for clearance, for best plug lead fitment I had to rotate the dizzy 180 out from factory position and moved the leads to suit, all was well soooo TLDR: pick where you want distributor to sit, adjust rotor arm till its pointing at plug lead #1 when engine is at TDC, start engine, adjust ignition timing, done
Thanks for the reassurance rubjonny. No time on the car yet, but I did receive a rubber vacuum elbow I needed today. Obsolete at VW and over £40 for2 x NOS so sod that. I thought I would try my luck with an ebay search and found some for an MG. Its actually a reducer but still fits the Vac line at the throttle body. I could always run a drill through it if need be. £2.30 plus postage, thank you very much. That was going to stop me getting the Vac system back together
Been messing around with the vacuum pipes as the valve that has a junction for the MFA has broken. And the t piece is obsolete so I will be having to make something up. Meanwhile I noticed a broken cable at my WUR, glad I saw it now. I am so close to having a start of the car, yet shi##in myself that it won't start or that I have missed something. I've checked the timing more times than I can count
Today was the fitting of tyres to my recently painted wheels. All went well, cleaned and sealed then fitted to the car with some shiny new ebay bolts. This is the first time in a long while that it has had 4 wheels on. Maybe soon I can get all of them on the floor, but it is one step closer
Connected the vacuum set up by the manifold finally, so thought I would go back to setting the injector flow rates. Ball ache. I actually managed to get them all doing an equal flow surprisingly. The big question is, does anyone know what they should be giving out. They are surprisingly adjustable at the fuel regulator, as I have had between 10l and 18l/min with a 2mm gap at the airflow meter. Put this on full throttle and the differences they can be set to can give a massive over fuelling. The Bentley says 10l/min at idle 80l full throttle at 40 secs I thought I had got this correct at idle but realised I was using a 2mm spacer which must be a bigger than idle opening I think!! As when I then tried the 40s full throttle I only achieved results in the 60ml. Earlier I had achieved nearly 100ml So you can see massive differences are achievable and I would like to get it right. I have seen a post in the kjet section where a guy mentions the settings for 2mm, 10mm and 19mm gaps, maybe I should try this. What I do know is that I need to get some more fuel as the new pump was starting to make a noise. Maybe with the lighter nights we can all get to do a bit more outside
Had another go at setting this up using some better measuring tubes. I have altered this more bloody times. Anyway Ipurchased and fitted new injectors to it so that is always an improvement. They seem pretty balanced now at 81 81 81 80, but when i tried what I thought was idle (I did it for 2 mins not 1) I got 18, 18, 18,12... I have messed about enough so I shall see how it is when I get to start it this year The injectors are officially fitted so I need to triple check everything is back together, swap the fuel relay link back and go for the big switch on
I connected up all of my pipes and thought I would try the 1st start of the car. I couldn't remember what I had done with swapping the relays for a continuous fuel pump but tried my best to put the relays back where I thought they should be. Hmm..... Anyway all set, ignition Lights on but no pump prime noise!!! Weird as when testing the injector flow all has been fine. I also have the indicator light lit, suggesting something strange is happening. So what i thought might be a quick engine turn over has failed. Okay so I have lights and indicators not plugged in but I wasn't expecting this. Have I put my relays back in their correct places? Position 2 and 8 is what I think I messed about with. What do others think?
Well done getting to the point of trying to start things for the first time, it's definitely arse puckering stuff. Electrics are beyond me I'm afraid, but I'm sure someone'll keep you right very soon. Great work, stick at it!
Pre-start update... finally found my relay location diagram from when I 1st got it going. All correct except position 7 has the for my front fogs, I had put it in no1. So I attempted the electrical gremlins and still am. I fitted all the lights and indicators so that I can properly check everything. The dimly green lit indicator on the dash was due to the plug at the hazard switch not being pushed in all the way... cleaned some other connections and they all work fine. Front wipers didn't work due to me not having fitted that plug!! (Common theme here, me ) Rear brake light constantly on. I must have pushed the adjustable plunger in on the switch when I changed the servo. So quite an easy fix. Still no rear fog and no pump prime noise when switching ignition ON. Strangely if I take out relay 62 in position 2 with the ignition ON, then refit, I get the priming sound. I won't be attempting a start until I get this...
Rear fog now works. I don't actually know what I've done apart from undo and keep refitting the switch Fuel pump wise, with ignition ON, unplugging then refitting the connector at the coil, ecu and distributor each make the pump prime noise.... just not when I do it straight from the switch, hmmmm
some kjet relays will prime the pump and some wont, main thing is it runs on cranking. I suspect it could be down to the initial spark you sometimes see putting ignition on which also triggers the relay, but yeah probably wont have any noticeable effect either way at the very most it'll crank over slightly longer due to fuel pressure taking 2 seconds longer to build than it would if the relay primed pump you can start and run engine with the 17 relay in slot 2, the only issue is if you crash the pump wont automatically cut out so its not ideal to do it in the long run but if you just need to test start engine and move car for a little bit you're fine
Received a little present from Germany today, a kjetronic testing set up. I will learn as I go, just need the courage to start the car
Have been eyeing those up, very interested in your opinions when the time comes... they do seem to get a good write up already.
