Today's progress... no real time but the vacuum pipes behind the manifold are fitted, I just need a couple of larger hose clips and to source the correct vacuum valve, that will be interesting I'm sure. Dry run on fitting the new fuel lines but no final position or clipped yet. I have the WUR off and measured 22ohms across the pins- need to find if that means it is okay!! On the WUr subject, have a look at the back of mine please. I took it off to drill the back expecting a brass disc... is this adjustable? 026 133 403 is the part number on it. When I finally have all of the fuel system together, I will then move into the next stage of testing the pressure and flow rates. The sad bit that I am looking forwar to doing, that's if nothing leaks and my rebuild of the metering head worked
And in between all of this I try to find time to do a little more wheel refurbishment. I have 2 on the go at the moment.. They won't be perfect but will hopefully be presentable. Just a little minor filling and then a final colour paint before the dreaded P masking for black paint I do have 4 other spares which are all in a bad way, but if anyone wants any, they will be very cheap
Your WUR - Grrrr! I've got into the habit of calling it the control pressure regulator, but even Bosch use both terms depending on what you read, so take your pick! This may be a crock, but one article claimed the function of the very early ones did only that, helped with cold starting (using the control pressure), hence the name warm up regulator. Their function later evolved and took on the additional role of helping to also regulate the control pressure itself, hence the name change... I know, I know, it's really sad, but I feel much better now. You've the same basic one 026 133 403 that's on my MK1 and it can't be adjusted in the way you're thinking. There was a subsequent type with an extra chamber / gubbins inside (of which that brass disc is part) that has a full load diaphram and is connected to the manifold pressure. Visually the full load one has an extra layer to the casting, so three instead of the two of ours (plus pipe connectors and / or a vent) Haven't looked into it in any depth, so might be wrong but think they're on the 16v Golf / Scirocco amongst a few others. If I can find my tester, will check the Ohms for you... again read what it should be somewhere, but bug**red if I can remember at the moment.
As always , thanks for the info. Secretly I am happy that it isn't easily adjustable and I can ignore it for now. Just fit it back on the engine and work out the best route for the fuel lines to it.
You can still adjust ours, bit of an oversimplification but basically there's a factory set recessed round dowel on the upper face that can be tapped in. Problem is if you overshoot it means taking the whole thing apart to tap it back up, then start all over again. There's a get around of fitting a threaded bolt to the dowel that'll allow you to pull it back up if needs be from the outside. Could see it all going wrong very quickly unless you had the right tools / ability and knew what you were doing... at the price of the things there's no room for error.
I must be more patient these days. The wheels did not go well as the masking on the Ps bled the black through and reacted with my wheel colour I connected all of the fuel hoses so that I could have a test run of fuel flow. Turns out one banjo wasnt nipped up and sprayed fuel everywhere, but atleast I have fuel eh I did the fuel relay removal for the 17 and i do indeed get fuel at the injectors, well 3 of them!!! Hmmmm and also the fuel is continuous on ignition even though i hadn't lifted the air plate. Dark now so it can wait. An evening of internet searching for me
swap the injector with one of the others, see if problem moves. if not, swap fuel line with one of the others, see if the problem moves. if not, metering head is at fault
Due to rubbish weather I have avoided the car. As today was relatively nice I decided to have a go at adjusting the flow rates to the injectors. I read somewhere that with a 2mm Allen key under the air plate I should get 14 ml/min, so that is what I aimed for. After 3 hrs I got pretty close so thought all was well. It was pretty tedious having the injectors squirt into bottles, then tipping them out so that I could measure better with a 5ml medicine syringe!! But I got it to something like. It got me thinking that a small discrepancy at this flow rate must equate to a lot at full throttle...Also putting a spacer under the airplate creates a bigger or smaller gap depending on where it is due to the arc of travel, so this has thrown me a bit. Anyway masses of patience and I was recording all of my results apart from if I just had a mind blank and occasionally poured the measuring container back into the Jerry can before measuring it . So I got them pretty close to the 14 target and then went for the 10mm Allen key. My last 2 results were this and injector 4 showed a huge difference. I may swap that around just to see what happens. What have I learnt, well it's a good way to pass a Sunday afternoon and i need to read up more on how to do this test properly. I may also need to replace an injector or 4 but hopefully it won't be another 6 weeks between my next visit to this. Although I do need to change the wheel bearings on the front of my Corrado
Flow rate question, what should this be at a given distance of the air plate being opened?. I mentioned earlier about this 2mm allen key giving 14 ml per minute, but is this correct or where is any specific k-jet VW Bentley information on this. I was trying again today with the air plate fully open and was getting around 85ml. But adjusting can create such a huge difference and I would like to set this up properly against some factual figures.
Bentley (MK2) references using a special tool to do it, but in effect it just sets the airflow plate to simulate idle and again at full throttle. Flow at idle should be 20ml at two minutes. Flow at full throttle should be 80ml at 40 seconds. You're allowed a max. difference between injectors of 3ml at idle and a max. of 8ml at full throttle. I've found another test referenced else where that's not as exact as Bentleys and it just comments on VW K-jet in general, no particular model, it may also be USA specific, but can't confirm if that matters or not... It says to raise the airflow plate by 1/4" (6.35mm) and let flow for 30 secs. The quantities obtained should be equal with a max. variance allowed between injectors of 10% If you do get equal flow at 1/4" you repeat the test but with the plate at it's half way travel mark, again a 10% variance between injectors is allowed.
Received the distributor hall sender today and thought it would take 5 mins to fit. What a ball ache...the mounting holes were a pain to line up and then the pin area that the vacuum canister links onto was tight and rubbing. The whole unit was awkward to get to sit flat so that the shaft would spin easily. Wish I could have found a Bosch part ££££ Just checked the vacuum and it does move the black part as I put two marks of where it rests and moves to. I think I need to fit the circlip -dowel-cover plate-circlip-dust cover. Does that sound right. Also does the shaft need an oil seal lower down in the groove and where the heck would I find this paper gasket?
Paper gasket's 056905261 Just had a quick Google and they're usually 55p each when in stock with Autodoc... scare yourself, search eBay for the same thing and see what some of the greedy sods are asking for them! Think I'd be investing in some gasket paper if you can't easily get them - they're inside diameter 35mm / outside diameter 45mm, literally a piece of paper. I'm maybe mistaken but I think it's supposed to help prevent the different metals reacting, not a seal as such. I didn't even know they existed until the guy who did the engine rebuild gave me the left overs from the Elring gasket set he used and there was one included. Not sure if there are any differences to the Hall sender you have - one thing I found with the original when refitting is the fragile plastic cover that holds the thin wires in place needed to be snapped down properly or else it would rise up and rub on the underside of the trigger wheel as it rotated. The mini dowel, I found putting it into the slot where it normally lives before you tried to fit anything else, then pushing the trigger wheel down over it worked best. Trying to install it after the wheel was on was impossible. From recollection there's a very thin stainless steel washer that sits on the inside of the casing just where the shaft passes through. I got the impression it was more to separate the two surfaces than acting as a seal. In theory there shouldn't be oil passing through there to need a seal. 'circlip -dowel-cover plate-circlip-dust cover' sounds right if I've understood you correctly!
I've photos I took as I went along to remind me what went where, can post some up if it helps. The paper gasket... (... and one that's a bit more sensibly priced - https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/distri...lf-jetta-scirocco-corrado-audi-80-23947-p.asp)
Not had anytime for the Golf unfortunately. The Corrado has needed front wheel bearings and some de-rusting then painting of parts. I have finally managed to order the paper gasket from classic today, so thanks for that. Distributor is now built up and ready to go in soon, then it's more fuel testing, connect all of the vac system back up, ignition leads on and maybe think about turning the engine over. Probably need to check everything over 5 times, but it is a nemesis that I want to have achieved. Just need to invest in a timing light, co meter and a fuel pressure test gauge
Looking really good... It's a great learning curve working on them, and seeing how they operate. Did you stay with the original dizzy / change the Hall sender / vac. canister? Be interesting to hear your thoughts on what they're like.
I kept the original canister and just replaced the Hall sender. I really would have liked to find a bosch replacement that but dont seem to have the time at the moment. The ignition parts one seems fine but was a pain to line up with the fixing screws. Trying to purchase the correct distributor cap at the moment so that it can be fitted next week hopefully, but struggling on the correct cap. I dont want to get it wrong and then spend 3 weeks sorting out why it wont start
Dizzy finally fitted and all timing marks checked a dozen times. When turning the engine by hand they all still line up, so I am feeling pretty hopeful that this bit is correct. I just need more time, that I dont have... I even fitted the spark plugs and leads. Slowly getting there
Probably bread and butter stuff to some but it was pretty daunting doing the belts / timing etc. for the first time, specially on your own... fair play for tackling it. Been a while since I did mine, so may be sending you off on a wild goose chase, because of that have someone else clarify / check things better before you start undoing what has already been done. I'm a later PB digifant, so that too may be a reason, but if not my dizzy sits about a 1/4 turn clockwise further round than yours. I'm maybe also getting confused by the angle of the image. On mine the TDC slot on the dizzy rim (that the rotor arm is pointing to in the image) would be roughly where the Hall sender connector is with yours, facing in the general direction of cylinder No.4. Without looking it all up again and if I recall correctly, No.1 cylinder needs to be at TDC and the oil pump slot the dizzies sits into be at a certain orientation also.
