i know its hard to say a rough time Eddie, but do you know roughly what time it would take to set up a 16v on K-jet? i see from other threads that you have got great results with EFI just wonder what could be done with K-jet and ignition adjustments, what price is the dyno per hour? Also Chris, i can ask the garage close to me that has the lead and cd if he would sell as it seems it would be no use to him these days?
Not much to do, once the fuelling is in the correct window (adjustments made to the WUR and individual metering head pot trimming and system pressure) then its a case of setting the ignition timing to a point where no detination occurs. Both are a compromise, especially the 'set' curve of the ignition. Only the base point is adjustable to all adjustments are linear.
yeah ok, i have had the car at stealth before but keep wondering how much more in terms of drivability would be achievable if i was to get it set up by toyotec? i know its a compromise as you are limited by the base ignition setting but every place up in Scotland i have spoke to, always want to set it at 6 btdc and 2% co and just leave it.
Are there not a few types of oem ignition ecu? Some with more aggressive advance curves. It may well be worth swapping ignition ecus to see if it helps or hinders. The carb engines with their mechanical advance dizzys are noticeably different when substituting different dizzys with varying advance curves. Can make the engine come alive if it was run with the wrong one.
good ol' K Jet... This is how I used to set up K-Jet for best results. It is an ol skool way that I used to practice in my carburettor/breaker points and condensor past. Still use it for mapping ECUs in conjunction with the chassis rolls for verification. Make sure vehicle is in good mechanical state. Take these tuning tools. and map...sorry adjust... Fuel flap pivot with car idling. Smell for richness/leaness and listen or feel for engine running unevenand rough ( lean) or engine hunting (rich) Offset spark angle table advance. Engine will increase speed. OE factory settings do not apply so forget all that 6deg nonsense. That's for kids... . A re-tweak on fuel mixture pivot may be required. Check the settings in a few iterations on one of these:- Tweak flap and dizzy a few times, testing full load and part to WOT transistions. Listen for det. If none go for more advance. If you done a good job the engine would feel like it wants to rip itself from the car during hard accel from 1st to 2nd or even up through 3rd . Then you are ready to put number to butt sensation when you to perform a "power run" on one these:- If it is an ABF engine the plot at WOT should look similar to this. All from ol' skool tuning. Dyno time can benefit if there is a fuelling issue and WUR modification is required. however during road tuning AFR mixture can be dertermined with suitable equipment. If you have further questions please PM.
Just on the BRM 180, specs are listed on the 16v spec thread, post 2: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220777 Ignore the second 180, it was a 1-off. I've added a bit more detail in from this post: Interesting on the metering head - any numbers for this thread? Or are your's on it already? (didn't check)
Hi Chris, Intersting read. Im in a similiar situation, thinking of what next, (K-star?) as mentioned previous, once the fuelling is correct through the rev range, WUR and injectors flow checked, setup the ignition timing, there aint much else you can do, everything optimised. My 9a wouldn't give any more than 172 on optimax, so back to basics, get more air / fuel in, fit cams 268/276 setup, and do the same.
You'll need to up the rev limit to make the best use of them cams too (a la CFJ) Any idea how advanced TSR managed to set your ignition timing during the setup?
Right, had a good look at the k star and loom today. Gave it a quick clean up and took some pics. K star 5th injector. Also had a look at the metering head it still carries part no. 0 438 100 140 same as any 16v. Can only assume it has been internally tweaked (have BRM receipt for work). It was the previous owner that told me of the Porsche connection. Sorry i have nothing more. Slightly off topic had a good look at the ported inlet manifold. Really good job. Needs a good clean but you get the idea. The car was dynoed at least once a year but don't have any graphs only plots of bhp at what rpm (this must have been how BRM did it). Last one i have shows 192 bhp. Chris, do you know of a John Hulse? Was clearly a clubgti member and always got a 10% discount at BRM. Car was a 3dr in Helious blue.
i Have a GTI Engineering 42mm polished and ported intake manifold if anybody wants it for a good K-Jet cause
there was also the superchips race icon? ive never come across one fitted so cannot coment on its performance.
Looking back through old threads, Barny had/has a unichip on his mk2.. I'm still waiting to hear back from their tech guy who is on annual leave. Their head office is only 20mins down the road too... A re-worked 50mm inlet is also on my shopping list- one of the supporting mods fitted to CFJ that is often overlooked by many. Any increase in airflow into the motor must be beneficial- especially on one revving to nearly 8k with hotter cams
In fairness, there is nothing 'over looked'. As said previously, this spec of this car has been deliberately withheld, it was put together by folks who'd had input (for eg) on Steve Bloch's Slick 50 Mk2 16v, and that being the case, there is no implied ignorance on the part of Club GTI folk.
I'm not implying anyone is being ignorant at all. Just that it has a flowed inlet. A mod that not many folk seem to persue. Brought to our attention by chance on this thread... Given how his car goes- perhaps the flowed inlet (along with supporting mods) is worthwhile- BRMotorsport seemed to think so too....? Perhaps/perhaps not-only a suggestion! I know Ian & Graham well- & don't believe there is any great secret to their cars specs. Both are always honest and up front with me. I happen to think it's a combination of the parts and many hours of setup work that have reaped rewards...it's not like either are 20BHP up on anything similar.. At the Golf+ 16v day at Bruntingthorpe Iguana was very close in his AmD fettled 1900, as were GVK & Tub. (Tub was even quickest 0-60). Barnys car is fully comparable too...
very interesting Chris, seems that it could be down to the development and the combined mods that the car has, i have never seen the car go but from what av read on this forum its a very quick K-jet 16v. does anyone know what has been done to the metering head? any fuel adjustments or different springs etc?
Il have to call Ian & pick his brains. I know the spec-beit FULL or otherwise is elsewhere on the forum. Try a search for threads by ianb jamesa may also be able to shed further light. From memory Lightened/balanced 9A block TSR PACK A head Schrick 268/276 cams Flowed 50mm inlet manifold TSR 4 branch Remus 2.5" system New metering head WUR modded 7800rpm ECU crystal Standard ignition running 13degs base advance Lightened flywheel. 2y 16v box with 3.89fd
Ok, the lower 3.9 final drive is a very important point. By itself it will make a large difference when accelerating head to head with a vehicle of similar spec running a 3.66 FD. This will also potentially allow more aggressive timing to be run, in a similar way to why Gurd's ABF will run an optimised MAP that will not work in a heavier and higher geared car. To me it just sounds like the vehicle in question benefited from a lot of little tweaks that when added together, make a noticeable difference.
Car originally ran a stock 3.67fd- only changed during jamesa's ownership. It has always been quick- even when it was still on an 1800 block
